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FALL?0 fSSEBASTO PO Irf 
FlGHTI Nje|TH E^SARAGENS, 
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Copyright, 1S92, 
By Charles E. Brown & Co. 






. J. PARKHILL & CO., P%NTERS 
BOSTON 



PREFACE. 



Twenty-seven years ago an armed fleet "thundered at the gates 
of Japan," and, in the name of humanity, requested that its harbors 
should " be opened to the distressed ships of Western nations." I was 
a member of that expedition, and heard the haughty reply of the official, 
which was thus interpreted : 

" Return from whence you came. No foreigner is permitted to land 
on our sacred soil ! " 

How we received this command is a matter of history. 

When I first landed in Japan, the feudal system was in full force ; 
the Mikado (Emperor) was virtually a prisoner in Kioto, and none of his 
subjects were allowed to leave the country. To-day the Mikado rules 
the land, moves among his subjects like a Western monarchy and is 
seeking, by every means, to elevate the condition of his people. Japan- 
ese merchants are doing business in the principal cities of the world, 
her earnest students are to be found in our great colleges, and her art 
illuminates our homes, and has won the admiration of all nations. 

Before the first treaty was signed, our ships visited Yezo, and for 
some time cruised in Japanese waters. I thus had an opportunity of 
seeing the islands, and of becoming thoroughly acquainted with the 
coast. At a later period, I returned to the country, lived among its 
estimable people, studied their language and literature, and, what they 
term, "learned their hearts." 

This book describes the adventures of an American family and a 
young Japanese who has been educated in the States. They land at 
Nagasaki, proceed overland to Kokura, cross the strait to Shimonoseki, 
remain awhile in the province of Nagato, sail up the Inland Sea to Tokio, 
visit some of its celebrated places, and enjoy the deHghts of the New 
Year's festivities, conducted in the olden style. 



xn Johnnie, Fitz. and Sallie Jewett I have endeavored to depict the 
keen inteUigence of our rising generation ; in Oto Nambo, the modern 
Japanese, who, in adopting Western civilization, has abandoned the 
traditions of his forefathers ; in Mr. and Mrs. Nambo and their friends, 
the old conservatives who consider the telegraph an invention of 

demons. . i i r .. 

The story, though essentially a work of fiction, is founded on facts 
that have come under ray personal observation, and is intended to make 
young Americans better acquainted with their good neighbors who 
inhabit the " Land of the Rising Sun," and to show that all the world is 
more or less akin, and that wherever the human soul is planted, though 
obscured by manners and customs the opposite of our own, it bears the 

stamp of the Divine Image. 

EDWARD GREEY. 



Manchester-by-the-Sea, ^^ 



CONTENTS. 



Chapter PAGE 

I. An Unexpected Visitor ...... i 

II, Landing in Japan . . . , , . , 14 

III. Sights of Nagasaki 33 

IV. Nagasaki by Night . . . , , . . 47 
V. Killing Time at an Inn 62 

VI. Farewell to Nagasaki •,,,,, 86 

VII. A Pleasant Journey .-..,... 104 

VIII. Oto's Manly Avowal ...... 133 

IX. From Shimonoseki to Yokohama .... 161 

X. Yokohama 170 

XI. ToKio "187 

XII. Scenes in the Capital . . . . . .213 

XIII. The Temple of Kuwannon at Asakusa . . .231 

XIV. From Tokio to Kanasawa 248 

XV. The Great Bronze Image of Buddha . . . 264 

XVI. Japanese New Year's Festivities . . , . 281 



ILLUSTRATIONS. 



PAGE 

House-cleaning at Mr. Kingen's. 

Fro7itispiece 
The Japanese Doll's arrival in Amer 

ica ... 
Otto Nambo 

Nambo's Honored Father 
Otto's Daimio 
Dai koku-fuku-jin 
Japanese Pilot Boat . 
The Island of Decima . 
A Street in Nagasaki . 
A Dealer in Sandals . 
A Kdgo (litter)- . 
Old-clothes Vender 
A Blacksmith 

Portuguese Bridge, Nagasaki 
Norimo7to (enclosed litter) and Bearers 
Rope-maker . . ■ . 

» Toy-maker 

Toys representing the God Daruma 

Woman Spinning 

A Miniature Garden . 

Interior of Sleeping-Apartment . 

Kitchen-maid .... 

Buddhist Temple, Nagasaki 

Buddhist Bozu (ministers) at Prayer 

Service in the Buddhist Temple 

Picture of Buddhist Last Judgment 

The Sick Landlord and the Quacks 

The Game of " Catching the Fox " . 51 

A Peripatetic Astronomer • • • S3 

Shadows on the Wall .... 54 



Playing Cards . 

A Famous Singer 

Night Watchman 

Applying the Moxa 

The Golden River 

The Japanese Signs for the Hours 

Herons and small Birds 

Badger on a Bamboo . 

Geese, Swallows, and Kingfisher 

Mekura-hinin, Blind Beggars 

Playing the Koto (harp) 

Master Schiuichiro and his Nurse 

A Palmister and his Customers 

Drug-store .... 

An Engraver of Pipes 

A Peddler of Salt 

Performing Boys 

Sleeping Women 

Smoking Apparatus 

Bell Tower .... 

Hideyoshi, likewise called Taiko 

Sama 
Giving Alms for the Beneiit of the 

Dead . 
A Visit of Condolence 
Reaping the Rice Crop 
Cutting Rice 

Buddhist Funeral Services 
Burning a Body . 
At the Ancestral Tombs 
The Fan Dance . 
A Yadoya (inn) . 



55 
57 
58 
60 

^Z 

65 
66 

67- 
68 
68 
69 
70 
73 
75 
79 
80 
82 
84 
85 
87 

90 

92 
93 
94 
95 
96 
98 

99 
102 
105 



Xll 



ILLUSTRATIONS. 



of 



A Gossiping Coolie . . . 

Tattooed Betto (grooms) 

A Girdle Dyer .... 

Woman Bowing Cotton 

Sawing Timber .... 

Shinto Temples .... 

Shinto Priest and Priestess 

Ainos from Yezo 

Battledoor and Shuttle 

A Primitive Scare-crow 

A Farmer and his Family . 

A Bird-rattle .... 

Charcoal-seller and Wood-cutter 

Blessing the Water 

Shimonoseki from the heights 
Kokura .... 

Town of Shimonoseki 

The Ruins of the Forts of Shimon- 
oseki 

A Passenger Boat . . . 

A Japanese Junk 

The Long Flight of Steps . 

The Torii at the Landing-place . 

Bozu taking Exercise . 

Bozu at Dinner .... 

Oto's Uncle .... 

Kato Kiyomasa .... 

Japanese Cook's Fan . 

Festival in Honor of Takenouchi 

A Street Performance . 

A Conjuror 

A Dealer in Bronzes . 

The Faithful Lovers of the Takasago 
Pine 

A Wedding Ceremony 

Monkey Peak .... 

The Village of Soft-Water . 

Pavilion of Sanuki 

Fishing by Torchlight 

Yokohama from the Bluff . 

Japanese Builders at Work . 

A Foreign Dog and its Attendant 

A Chinese Clerk 

A Curio Store , . . . 

The Benten Tori (avenue) and Torii 

The Goddess Benten . 

The Gateway of Mr. Nambo's Estab 
lishment 

O-Kiku (Miss Chrysanthemum] 

Mr. Nambo's Home 

Ruins of a Gateway 



PAGE 

1 08 

109 
no 
III 
112 

113 
116 
118 
119 
121 
122 
123 
123 
125 

127 
128 

129 

131 
132 
136 

137 
140 
142 
143 
145 
147 
149 
152 

153 

154 

156 
157 
159 
160 
162 
166 
171 
173 
174 
17s 
177 
179 
180 

190 
192 

193 
197 



(Mrs 



the 



Oto's Foster-Mother, Mitsuro 
Beeswax) .... 

The Indignant Noble . 

A Daimio and his Retainers 

Renins in Ambush 

A Soldier of Old Japan 

An Allegorical Picture 

A Japanese Caricature . . 

Izakura 

The Great Fish Market of Tokio 
The Venders of Cuttle-fish 
Cattle-market .... 
The Lion of the Corea Dancing 
The Lion Refreshing Himself 
Street Acrobats .... 
A Sword-trick .... 
The Avenue of Asakusa 

Acrobats 

Distributing Charms, Porch of 

Temple of Kuwannon . 
Night Scene Outside the Temple 
A Japanese Cemetery . 
The Festival of Yorimitsu . 
Fuku-roku-jin (Longevity God) . 
A Circulating Library 
A Lantern-maker 
A Shinto Ceremony 
The Pagoda and Treasury of 

Temple of Hachiman . 
Approach to the Temple of Hachi 

man Kamakoura . 
Terrace of the Temple of Hachiman 
View of the Island of Enoshima 
Statue of Dai-Butsu (Great Buddha) 
View of Lake Hakone 
Jin-riki-sha Man on a Cold Day 
Mob before a Sak€ Shop 
Embossing Visiting Cards . 
Welcoming the New Rice . 
Mochi-vsi2i&.&i& 
A Poet at Work . 
New Year's Presents . 
The Maimio and Hatamoto . 
The Ceremony of Oniwa Soto 
The Little Girls' Festival . 
Song-sellers in the Street . 
Eta Dancers 
Streets of Tokio, New Year's 

nc^n .... 
Modern Japanese . . 
Fox marked " Owari" (The End) 



the 



After 



YOUNG AMERICANS IN JAPAN 




THE JAPANESE DOLL'S ARRIVAL IN AMERICA. 



YOUNG AMERICANS IN JAPAN 



CHAPTER I. 



AN UNEXPECTED VISITOR. 

Many a shaft, at random sent, 

Finds mark the archer little meant. — Hudibras. 

ONE glorious afternoon in September, two boys and a little 
girl were earnestly engaged in the walled garden at the 
rear of their home, putting the finishing touches to a strange- 
looking instrument that the elder of the lads had constructed 
out of an old pump-stock. 

"I guess this will do," he observed, as he snapped the 
trigger. "[NTow if any more of those tramps dare to enter our 
premises we will give them a dose of cucumbers." 

"A dose of what, Johnnie?" inquired his sister Sallie, a 
dark-eyed child of nine. "What do you mean?" 

" We 're going to load our cannon with those yellow-skins," 
answered her brother Fitz, speaking for Johnnie, who was 
busy with his apparatus. " Won't the tramps run when they 
find our shot flying about their ears?" 



2 YOUNG AMERICANS IN JAPAN. 

" Bet they will," murmured John, as he pointed the muzzle 
of the machine toward the door in the garden-wall. " If the 
selectmen of this place cannot manage the tramps, we will." 

The weapon was an ingenious affair, furnished with a spring 
that threw an}?' light substance, such as a young squash or a 
ripe cucumber, several yards, and was the result of much 
thought on the part of its inventor. 

Sallie watched Johnnie fire the cannon, and as he sent the 
missives " bash " against the door, clapped her hands and cried, 
"Oh, how splendid!" 

"Yes," he proudly returned; " I 'm thinking of asking papa 
to take out a patent on this. * There's millions in it!' *Jewett's 
Tramp Terror ' would look well in print. Come, Fitz, more 
ammunition." 

Fitz rammed the spring home with a broom-handle, and 
then picking up a mellow- looking vegetable, inserted the 
charge in the mouth of the gun. As he did so, some one 
knocked on the door; but the youngsters being much inter- 
ested in their amusements, did not hear the summons. 

" Try a shot, Sallie," urged Johnnie, offering his sister the 
trigger-line. 

"Oh, I'm afraid!" she said. 

"Afraid! " shouted Fitz. "What a coward you are, Sallie; 
why, it's as easy as anything. Give the line a jerk, the 
trigger is released, and whiz goes the cucumber. Oh, it's 
jolly fun!" 

The little girl still hesitated; noticing which, Johnnie said, 
in a coaxing tone, "Oh, Sallie, don't be afraid; this isn't like a 
real gun ; it won't kick." 

While her brothers were persuading her, the person at the 
garden-door knocked a second time. This summons was also 
unnoticed, Sallie having advanced to the rear of the cannon 
and timidly taken the line from her elder brother. 



AN UNEXPECTED VISITOR. 



"Sister!" cried Fitz, "don't shut both your eyes; if you 
do, you will never be able to hit a tramp. Come, give the line 
a pull. Jemmy! — what cowards you girls are! " 

This taunt put Sallie on her mettle, and, after tightening 
the line, she jerked it smartly and 
released the trigger. 

At the same instant the appli- 
cant for admission raised the latch, 
and throwing open the door entered 
the garden. 

"Whiz — bash!" went the 
cucumber, striking the lintel and 
scattering the seeds all over the 
intruder. 

" My ! " ejaculated Sallie, start- 
ing back with affright. "What's 
that? " 

"Hello — are you a tramp?" 
cried Fitz, gaping at their victim. 

"Goodness!" gasped Johnnie. 
«It's — a — lady!" ' 

The cause of their amazement 
was a pale-faced, gentle-looking 
individual, dressed in a white robe, 
dark petticoat, and wide-sleeved 
over-garment of silk, who regarded 
them for an instant, then said, in 
very excellent English: 

"A thousand pardons. Can you 
inform me where Professor Jewett 
lives?" 

Johnnie glanced first at his sister, next at his brother, and 
finally at the speaker; then pointing behind him, replied: — 




OTO NAMBO. 



4 YOUNG AMERICANS IN JAPAN. 

"Yes, Miss; that is the Professor's house, and we are his 
children." 

The stranger gravely brushed off some seeds that had fallen 
upon his bushy, black hair, and smiling, said: 

"I am not a young lady, I am a boy; my name is Oto 
Nambo." 

"Are you a Chinese?" bluntly inquired Fitz. 

"No," proudly answered the lad; " I am a Japanese. My 
countrymen were never conquered by the Tartars. I am afraid 
I have interrupted your sport." 

While he was speaking, Sallie, who felt ashamed of the 
reception they had given the stranger, hurried toward the 
bouse. 

Johnnie briefly explained his object in making the cannon; 
then inquired: 

" How came you to enter by the garden door? " 

The young Japanese told them that he had been so directed 
by a woman whom he had met on the street, adding, merrily: 

" She evidently took me for a Chinese, and thought I was 
in the laundry business." 

He was so gentlemanly and good-natured that both Johnnie 
and Fitz took a liking to him right away, and when they had 
shaken his hand, conducted him indoors to the library, where 
they found their father engagfed in writing. 

"Well, sir," inquired the Professor, after he had welcomed 
the visitor^ "what can I do for you?" 

Oto produced a letter from the sleeve of his outer garment, 
and handing the missive to his host, remarked: 

" Your brother. Doctor Jewett, of Tokio, was my honored 
instructor. That note will explain my presence here." 

The gentleman opened the envelope and read: 




i.Ivlir'liKlAlj, nUSi'irAL, 1 UKIU, JAf. 

"August i, i8 — . 
" Dear John : — This is to introduce you to Mr. Oto Nambo, ( 
of my pupils, and the son of my good friend Nambo, of whom you h; 
often heard me speak. Oto desires to study the higher branches 
chemistry, so I have advised him to visit the States and place hims 
under your instruction. He is a truly noble, gentle, honorable boy, a 
I would much like to hear that he had become an inmate of your fam 
I have known Oto from his childhood, and feel as much regard for 1 
as though he were a relative. Give him a hearty welcome, for the S: 
of your brother, .. Fitzgerald Jewet: , 

" P. S. — Remember me affectionately to your wife, and to S;* l 
and the boys." 

As the Professor concluded reading this, Mrs. Jewett i 
her daughter entered the room. 

"Ellen," he said, introducing their visitor, "this is Mr. O 
Kambo, a friend of my brother Fitz." 

The hostess and Sallie bowed to the Japanese, who pi 
foundly returned their salute, and said: 

"Ladies, I am delighted to have the happiness of mee ■ 
you. I trust you are both in the enjoyment of good health 

He neither, by word nor look, showed that he had ; 
viously seen the little girl, who felt truly grateful for 
consideration. 

" He is real good," she thought. " Some boys would 1 
been mad at having cucumbers fired at them." 

After supper the Professor and Mrs. Jewett held a cor 
tation, and that evening they invited Oto to take up his al 
with them. 

"Won't it be jolly?" cried Fitz. "You can teacl 
Japanese, and we'll instruct you in base-ball and lots of thi 
Say, why do you not wear American clothes?" 




" I intend to do so now." 

"I thought most of your countrymen did," observed 
Johnnie. 

"AH our officials, and many of my friends have adopted 
Western costume," answered the boy. " I have long desired 
to do so, but my riother said. No; so I have continued to wear 
my native dress. When I bade her good-by, she whispered, 
"My son, if, on arriving in America, you find it best to wear 
the costume of the people, I will make no further objection." 

Mrs. Jewett, who was highly pleased with ^ " 
glanced toward Fitz, then said to their guest: 

"Do Japanese boys always obey their mothers?" 

" Of course, madam," he replied, as though surpri^ ^^ ner 
question. "Nobody ever thinks of disobeying their parents." 

Fitz, who was blushing like a girl, bit his lips, and mut- 
tered ; 

" I'm afraid we American bo3^s are not like you. We try 
to obey, but sometimes slump up." 

"Do what?" quietly inquired Oto. 

" He means that he cannot always accomplish his wish,"" 
said Mrs. Jewett. " Slump is not a very pretty word to use." 

After the gas was lighted, the children asked Oto about his. 
family, whereupon he produced a photograph of his father, 
and remarked: 

"This was taken some years ago, when my honored father 
was the chief councillor of our dai-mio (great lord)." 

" How funny," observed Johnnie. " Why did he have the 
top of his head shaved, and the hair on the sides gathered up 
into that gun-hammer queue?" 

" The custom originated when my warrior countrymen 
began to wear helmets," answered O^o. " If the}^ had per- 
mitted their hair to grow as I do, they could not have worn 




NAMBO'S HONORED FATHER. 



YOUNG AMERICANS IN JAPAN. 






those metal head-coverings. You will observe my parent has 
his pipe in his left hand, and his sword on the mat near him. 
Now the wearing of swords by the nobility and gentry is 
abolished, and no one is ever seen with them." 

"What is that little parcel lying before yom- father?" 
inquired Sallie, who took a deep interest in the boy's descrip- 
tion. "And what is that tube between the sword and cup?" 

" The parcel is my fath- 
er's tobacco-pouch, and 
what you call a tube is his 
pipe-case. A Japanese pipe 
only holds a tiny pinch of 
tobacco. The vessels on 
the stand upon my father's 
right are a tea-pot, a kettle 
for hot water, and a bowl 
for tea sediment." 

"What is the screen 
behind him?" asked John- 
nie. 

" It represents the par- 
tition that divided the pho- 
tographer's studio from his 
living-room. The picture 
was not taken in our 
home." 

Oto then showed them another portrait, and said: 
" This is the photograph of our dai-mio or lord, in his old 
costume." 

"Is that a dunce's cap?" demanded Fitz. 
" No," answered Oto ; " it was the court head-dress of the 
dai-mio. I can assure you my late Iqrd is anything but a 
dunce. The robes that appear so strange to you really gave 
an air of dignity to their wearer*^ 




OTO'S DAI-MIO. 



AN UNEXPECTED VISITOR. 9 

"Why is he kneeling, and why did he have such long 
pants?" asked Johnnie. 

" He is not kneeling," answered Oto. " It was the custom 
for our nobles to wear flowing trousers, just as your ladies 
wore long trains to their dresses." 

" We don't now," said^ Sallie. 

"More do we," said Oto. "All those things belong to 
the past, — to old Japan, when the shogun or military power 
governed my country. Now the mikado (emperor) is the 
sole ruler, our officials wear foreign uniforms, and our soldiers 
and sailors are dressed like your own." 

"Where did you learn to speak such excellent Ei^glish?" 
inquired Fitz. 

" In Tokio. I have been studying your language for five 
years, and am a graduate of the Imperial College." 

" Come, children," remarked Mrs. Jewett, " it is growing 
late. Professor, will you show our guest to his room? Mr. 
Oto, I have had your chamber made as comfortable as possible." 

Oto bade his new friends good-night, and followed his host, 
who, as they ascended the stairs, said: 

" I am sorry we could not give you rice and fish for supper. 
After this, you shall have them at every meal." 

" Oh, I can eat American food," was the quiet rejoinder. 
"Please do not prepare rice especially for me; I am not so 
fond of it as you may imagine, and can eat almost anything 
you do." 

When they entered the sleeping-apartment, the Professor 
pointed to a corner in which some wadded quilts were neatly 
arranged, and observed: 

" This is the best we can do to-night. Mrs. Jewett had the 
bedstead and furniture removed, and new matting laid, so as to 
make your room as homelike as possible. We wish you to 
imagine you are in 3^our own house. There is a bath in the 



lO 



YOUNG AMERICANS IN JAPAN. 



next room, and hot water. Please turn off the gas, and do 
not blow it out or you will be smothered. If you require 
any more quilts, ring, and I will send some to you. Good- 



night." 

As the gentleman descended the stairs, Oto smiled, and 
thought: 

"They imagine, because I am a Japanese, I cannot sleep in 
a bed. How comical! Well, as they have taken all this 
trouble to strip the apartment, and make it homelike for me, 
I'll not undeceive them." 

Thus thinking, he went to his trunk, and, after searching 
awhile, discovered a paper bearing a representation of Dai- 
koku (the god of luck). This he laughingly affixed to the 
wall; having done which, he made up the quilts Japanese 
fashion, as bed and bed-clothes, and retired for the night. 

The next inorning, Fitz entered 
the room and announced that break- 
fast was almost ready; then, as he 
regarded the picture of the god, said: 
"Hello! who is that? — another 
relative of yours?" 

Oto's eyes twinkled, as he replied: 
"No; that is Dai-koku fuku-jin. 
Your good parent has kindly en- 
deavored to render my room like 
that of a Japanese, so I have com- 
pleted the illusion by adding a pic- 
ture of the god of luck, which was slipped into my trunk by 
dear old Mitsu-ro, my foster-mother." 

"^^D ay-cooky ou is a comical-looking critter," said Fitz, grin- 
ning at the picture; " tell me something about him. Who was 
he, anyhow?" 

Oto laughed heartily, and answered: 




DAI-KOKU FUKU-JIN. 



AN UNEXPECTED VISITOR. II 

" Dai-koku, who is by foreigners termed the god of wealth, 
or luck, was the son of Sos-anu-no-mikoto. He is a very 
popular deity in my country, and is always represented as 
standing on two bales of rice, with a sack of money on his 
back. In his right hand he holds a miner's hammer, signify- 
ing: "^if you would have lots of money in your bag and rice in 
your storeroom, you must work for it as a miner does with 
his tools.' " 

"He's awfully homely, isn't he?" mused Fitz. 

"Yes," chuckled Oto. "We do not consider him very 
handsome. Still, many of my countrymen and women vene- 
rate him, and make offerings before his picture." 

" Say, Oto, you don't believe in any such nonsense, do you? 
Why do you keep that thing? It is idolatrous." 

The Japanese boy laughed, and replied: 

" Oh! I have no faith in Dai-koku; I merely put him there 
to carry out your good mother's idea. You will find such a 
picture in nearly all our houses." 

When Fitz related the foregoing conversation to his 
mother, she thought for a while, then said to her husband: 

" Professor, I believe Oto would like an American bed ; he 
is too proud to acknowledge his people's way of sleeping is 
not as comfortable as ours." 

"Yes, I agree with you, wife; we will treat this young 
Japanese just as we would an American guest. It is amazing 
how readily his countrymen adopt our ways." 

After a good breakfast, during which Oto showed a thorough 
appreciation of American beefsteak and buckwheat cakes, and 
did not ask for rice, the bo3^s conducted him to a clothing 
store, where he purchased a hat and an excellent outfit. This 
done, he had his hair cut, and on his return, when he donned 
his new garments, he looked as neat and nice as either of his 
friends. On discovering that the furniture had been restored 



12 ■ YOUNG AMERICANS IN JAPAN. 

to his room, he took down the picture of Dai-koku, remarking, 
with a merry laugh: 

"This was never intended to ornament an American apart- 
ment. I will not destroy it, as it was the last gift of my good 
old Mitsu-ro, but will pack it away with my kimono (long 
robe) and hakama (trousers). Now I am in America I am 
going to be an American." 

From that day he became like one of the family, and by 
his gentleness of manner, decision of character, nobility of 
nature, and general amiability, made numerous friends in 
Cromlech. 

He taught his host, hostess, and their children to speak, 
read, and write Japanese; and entering the college of which 
the Professor was one of the faculty, passed his examinations 
with credit to himself and instructors. 

One evening, five years after Oto's arrival in the States, the 
Professor said to his family: 

" I have been thinking of going to Japan with Oto, and of 
making a tour through the country. What do you say to it?" 

" If we can accompany 3'ou, Yes," answered Mrs. Jewett. 
"Johnnie, Fitz, and Sallie would thoroughly enjoy the trip, arid 
I would much like to visit ' The Land of the Rising Sun.' " 

At first the Professor demurred, saying it would cost too 
much. However, upon making a calculation, he agreed to 
take them, remarking: 

"You will understand one thing: we are to go by sailing- 
ship, and upon our arrival in the country to endeavor to live in 
Japanese fashion. We will land in the south at Nagas-aki, 
and travel inland through Hizen and Chikuzen, cross the strait 
to Shimonoseki, embark on board a native steamer, and pro- 
ceed up the Inland Sea to Tokio, where we will remain six 
months." 

"Hurrah!" cried Johnnie and Fitz. ^ 



AN UNEXPECTED VISITOR. 1 3 

"Isn't it splendid?" said Sallie. "Oh, I do so want to visit 
Japan." 

"Yes, I like the idea vastly," observed her mother. "What 
do you say, Oto ? " 

" I think you will have a good time, see lots of interesting 
places and things, and learn all about my countrymen and 
women," answered the Japanese. " Your decision makes me 
very happy." 

On the first of March, the Professor, his wife, family, and 
friend were on their way to the far East. 



14 YOUNG AMERICANS IN JAPAN. 



CHAPTER II. 

LANDING IN JAPAN. 

They sailed away for a far-off strand, 

And for weeks and weeks never sighted land. — MiLLER. 

THE " Northern Star," which carried the Jewetts to Japan, 
was a slow-sailing ship, and it was not until daybreak of 
the first of July that the look-out man announced: 

"Land on our port-bow!" 

"Hurry up, Fitz! — hurry up, Oto! Come, Sallie, and 
father and mother," shouted Johnnie, who was on deck when 
the sailor made the discovery. " Turn out and see the glorious 
land of the Rising Sun." 

It did not take them very long to make their toilets, and as 
the mist cleared away, and the golden orb rose from its bed 
in the East, the family mustered on deck and saw right ahead 
a line of blue mountains clearly defined on the Western 
horizon. Johnnie, Fitz, and Oto mounted the rigging, and 
ensconced themselves in the fore-top, while the Professor, his 
wife, and daughter took their places abaft on the poop. 

The boys had grown fine manly fellows, — Johnnie being 
sixteen, Fitz thirteen, and Oto nineteen. They were all strong, 
active, and intelligent, and could speak, read, and write Japan- 
ese as well as they could English and French. 

Sallie had developed into a charming miss, and was four- 
teen years old. She, like her brothers, was well versed in 
Japanese, in addition to which she could play on a samisen 
(Japanese guitar), which Oto had imported for her. 

"Oh, I am so glad! " she exclaimed, as she glanced at the 



LANDING IN JAPAN. 1 5 

distant land. " I do so want to have a run on shore. Papa, I 
hope you will take us home by steamer." 

"Deck ahoy!" shouted Johnnie, who was quite a sailor. 
^"^ There's a queer-looking canoe coming off to us." 

"Ay, ay, my son, I see her," bawled the captain; "it is a 
pilot-boat." 

As the vessel had a fair wind, and the approaching craft 
"was vigorously rowed by four stout Japanese, they soon neared 




JAPANESE PILOT-BOAT. 

one another, when the "Northern Star " was hove-to, and a 
rope thrown to their visitor. 

The pilot, a sturdy Japanese, dressed in native costume, 
-clambered up the ship's side, and after shaking everybody by 
the hand, as though they were old friends, ordered his boat to 
be made fast astern, and took charge of the ship. 

He was delighted to find the passengers could speak Japan- 
ese, and divided his time between directing the vessel and 
•chatting with the boys. 

As they drew near to the shore, he excused himself from 
further conversation, remarking that the navigation was some- 
what dancrerous, and he must attend solely to his duty. 



1 6 YOUNG AMERICANS IN JAPAN. 

Fortunately for the voyagers, the wind remained fair; so in? 
tnree hours they were inside the headland, and tacking up the 
picturesque Bay of Nagasaki. 

" See yonder island," said Oto, who knew every spot they 
passed. "That is Pappenberg, the rock from which, in 1637, 
thousands of Christians were hurled.'^ 

" What brutes your countrymen must have been," observed 
Johnnie. 

"Yes; they were not noted for their gentleness to those, 
who did not believe in their faith," he quietly answered. " If 
I remember rightly, some of your own people were, at a later 
date, not much more considerate of Quakers and the so-called 
witches." 

" That's so," said Sallie. " You do not persecute Christians, 
now, do you? " 

" Far from it," returned Oto. " We not onty permit mis- 
sionaries to settle all over the country, but we have abolished 
the edict boards that were formerly erected at the entrance to> 
every village." 

"What were these?" 

" They were official notices, forbidding any one to embrace 
the faith of the foreigner. Now our people can believe what~ 
ever their conscience tells them is right. I referred to the 
massacre of my Christian countrj^men in order to show you 
what wonderful changes have taken place in Japan." 

While they were conversing, a tug-boat, flying the flag of 
the country, — a red ball (sun) on a white ground, — came 
steaming out of the inner harbor, and when the health-officer 
had boarded the ship and granted \\qv pratique, the "Northern; 
Star " was made fast to the tiny craft, which proceeded to tow 
her at a high rate of speed. 

"That boat was built in Nagasaki, by Japanese, and her 
engines and boilers are of native manufacture," proudly re~ 



LANDING IN JAPAN. 



17 



marked the pilot. "You see we are going ahead like 
Americans." 

As they neared their anchorage, they noticed a low island 
thickly studded with warehouses. 

" Yonder is Decima," said Oto. " It was there that, for 
over two hundred years, the Dutch were permitted to live. 



^^='»^S£=ain» 




THE ISLAND OF DECIMA. 



Singularly enough, at one time, it was the only spot in the 
world where their flag was flying, the Hollanders having been 
temporarily conquered by a more powerful nation." 

The boys took a hurried glance at the interesting island, 
then commenting upon the obstinacy of the Dutch character, 
went below to prepare for landing. 

Within half an hour the anchor was dropped in the deep 
water, and the Jewetts embarked in a native boat and were 
landed on the custom-house wharf. 



1 8 YOUNG AMERICANS IN JAPAN. 

When their baggage and passports had been slightly 
examined by the customs' officials, who all wore foreign uni- 
forms, they were asked whether they desired to go to the Eng- 
lish or native hotel. 

The Professor said, "to the Japanese;" whereupon their 
effects were taken in charge by an expressman, w^ho wore only 
one cotton garment, and had his head tied about with a toweL 
After the man had started, the Professor and his party walked 
leisurely toward the inn. 

"What narrow streets!" remarked Sallie. "There are no 
windows to the stores, and the houses are all open in front." 

" Yes," said Oto. " You will not find stores here like those 
at home." 

"Isn't this your home?" slily inquired Johnnie. 

"Well, I meant in the States," merrily answered their 
friend. 

They proceeded through the main street, which was paved 
in the centre, and kept beautifully clean and neat. 

Few of the houses were more than one-story high, and none 
of them were remarkable for architectural beauty. 

" Our dwellings are built to live in, not to look at," said 
Oto. 

"Why is the hill at the back of the city cut into steps?" 
inquired Sallie. 

"It is terraced for the purpose of keeping the soil from 
washing down into the valley," said Oto. "We have such a 
large population that every inch of ground has to bear its 
crop." 

"What is that two-storied place, with heavy tiled eaves," 
asked Johnnie. 

" A temple." 

"Are there any foreign churches here?" 

" Yes, there are several in and about Nagasaki, and a large 



20 YOUNG AMERICANS IN JAPAN. 

number in the capital and open ports. I saw, by a recent copy 
of the ^ Tokio Times,' that it is estimated there are thirty-five 
thousand Christians in Japan." 

After walking quite a distance, they arrived at a neatly- 
kept and extensive establishment on Eastern Ocean Street. 

"Remember," whispered Oto, "you must not enter a Jap- 
anese house w^ith your shoes on. The waitresses will bring 
you tubs of water in which to lave your feet, and you must not 
be astonished at the proprietor kneeling, bowing his head to 
the ground, and making very humble apologies for the poor- 
ness of the accommodations. The latter you will find good 
enough." 

"Then why will he apologize?" demanded Fitz. 

"Because it is our custom," said Oto. 

On reaching the entrance to the inn, they were met by a 
smiling landlady, dressed in gray garments, who, prostrating 
herself in the veranda, murmured in Japanese, — 

" I fear my house will afford you very miserable accommo- 
dation." 

The Professor said something polite in return, and when 
the party had removed their shoes, they entered, and were con- 
ducted to a suite of apartments in the back of the house. 

"Why," cried Fitz, "there are no rooms in this place. It 
is one big hall, partitioned off" with screens. I want to have a 
chamber that overlooks the street." 

The landlady led him into a side apartment, and drawing 
back a shutter, said, — 

" There is the street, sir, outside. We desire to furnish you 
"with everything you wish." 

Oto ordered a meal to be prepared, and the travellers 
retired to their respective quarters, the boys being allotted one 
room, which was simply a matted space inclosed with beauti- 
fully-decorated screens. 



LANDING IN JAPAN. 



21 



"No beds, no chairs, no tables, no stools, no fireplaces, no 
washbowls," grumbled Johnnie. "On what are we to sit?" 

" On the nice, clean, matted floor," merrily replied Oto. 
"Now you are in Japan, you must do as we do." 

" I want to know," growled the boy. "Well, I guess this 
is no more strange to us than our country and ways were to 
you?" 

"No," was the laughing response. "We each have our 
manners and customs. Anyhow, we did not welcome you 
with a discharge of ripe cucumbers." 




A DEALER IN SANDALS. 



The boys laughed at this, and seating themselves at the 
open window, watched the scene in the street. 

On the opposite side of the way was a booth, in which straw 
sandals were exposed for sale. The dealer — a fat, sleepy- 
looking man — sat on a mat behind his wares, smoking and 
dozing. When his customers wanted his goods, they helped 
themselves, and threw down the value, — about two cents a 
pair. 



22 



YOUNG AMERICANS IN JAPAN. 



Most of the purchasers wore straw foot-gear, though some 
of them were perched on wooden clogs, that made a great 
clatter on the cobble-stones. 

Presently, two men came by, carrying a Kago (litter), in 
which a young girl was doubled up. Her clogs were laid on the 
top of the apparatus, and the latter was scarcely high enough 




A KAGO (litter). 



to admit of her sitting upright. The bearers halted for a 
moment, when she turned her pretty face toward the strangers, 
and glanced at them half-curiously, half-timidly, then bade the 
men go on. 

" She never knew the luxury of a Pullman car," laughingly 
remarked Johnnie; "how ever can she double herself up in, 
th^t style." 

"You'll have to do it yet," said Oto.v 



LANDING IN JAPAN. 



23 



While they were chatting, a man carrying a wooden horse 
or rack, on which were spread various worn coats and other 
^ garments, came along the street, and pausing before the win- 
dow, deposited his load. 

" He is a second-hand-clothes man," said Oto. " Wat 
him: that woman is 
after some of his 
wares." 

The customer, 
who had a baby 
strapped to her back, 
advanced, and tak- 
ing one of the robes, 
said, — 

" How much? " 

"A yen (dollar)." 

" Oh, impossible." 

"Cheap," mum- 
bled the man. " It 
is as good as new." old-clothes vender. 

"I'll give you twenty-five sen (cents)." 

"No; I should lose by it." 

"Thirty." 

"Couldn't; I'd starve if I sold goods at that rate." 

" Fift}' sen; not a cash more," dropping the robe and turn- 
ing away. 

"Here, take it," said the dealer, sighing; "it is exactly 
what it cost me." 

When the woman had departed with her purchase, the 
fellow turned to the boys, and, rolling his eyes comically, cried: 

"Ah, that was a good sale! I made my day's rice and fish 
out of her." 

"Come," said Fitz; "while father, mother, and Sallie are 
_ resting, let us take a walk." 




24 



YOUNG AMERICANS IN JAPAN. 



They stepped through the open window, entered the street, 
and strolled down to a place where they saw a crowd of boys 
watching a smith making a chain. He was not overburdened 
with clothes, nor was his assistant, — a villanous-looking youth, 
v/ho squatted by his side. 

The bellows were contained in an upright box, and were 
blown by the master, who worked the handle with his right 




A BLACKSMITH. 



foot. Though his tools were few in number and rude in con- 
struction, he turned out very neat work. 

"Do all your mechanics squat on the ground in that way? " 
asked Johnnie, as the}* moved off. " Do none of them ever 
use a bench, as ours do?" 

"Yes; they sometimes work at a low block of wood, raised 
about four inches from the floor," answered Oto. " My coun- 
trymen neither care to stand at meals nor at their occupations, 
as yours do." 

The friends strolled towards the suburbs, nobody taking 
much notice of them, foreigners being common enough in 
Nagasaki. 



26 



YOUNG AMERICANS IN JAPAN. 



After proceeding some distance, they came to a bridge, 
which Oto said was built by the Portuguese, and was the only 
one of the kind in Japan. 

"This isn't much of a river to require such a high bridge," 
remarked Fitz. 

" You should see it during the rainy season," returned Oto. 
"I tell you they want a strong structure then. The water 




NORIMONO (enclosed LITTER) AND BEAKERS. 

comes tumbling down from the hills, bringing stones and trees, 
and it is a wonder this old bridge has withstood so many 
floods." 

In the midst of their conversation, two men came stag- 
gering along, bearing between them a sort of coach, which 
depended from a heavy beam resting on their shoulders. On 
arriving at the bridge, they placed bamboo sticks under the 
beam, lowered it to within a foot of the ground, and began to 
wipe the perspiration from their browns. 

"Are 3^ou taking me right?" demanded their passenger, a 
rather pretty woman. " You ought to ha^*G crossed higher up," 
pointing to the left. 



ARRIVAL IN JAPAN. 



27 



The foremost of the men peeped round at her and said, in 
a conciliatory tone: 

" Honorable wife, we are taking you right. Look at those 
foreigners; see how they are staring at you." 

The lady glanced at the boys, bit her cherry lips, and pull- 
ing down the blind of the conveyance, hid herself from view. 

"What is that machine?" asked Johnnie. 

"That is a norimono (enclosed litter)," said Oto. "In the 
old times only our nobles and gentlefolks, and their ladies, 
rode in such vehicles; now any one can use them. They are 
much more comfortable than the kagoT 

They watched the 
bearers resume their 
burden and stagger 
off, then Fitz said, — 

"Why don't you 
use horses instead of 
men?" 

" Because human 
muscle, flesh and 
blood, are worth less 
than that of the ani- 
mals you name," re- 
plied the Japanese. 
" In Tokio you will 




see men drawing 



ROPE-MAKER. 

little carriages made to carry one or two 



jin-riki-sha^ 
persons." 

" You would not find an American willing to play horse in 
that way," remarked Johnnie. "Hello! what is that man 
doing down there?" 

" He is making rope," said Oto. " Come, we will ask him 
to explain how he does it." 



28 



YOUNG AMERICANS IN JAPAN. 



The man, who was polishing cordage with a tar-covered 
rag, eyed them askance, and continued his work without reply- 
ing to Oto's inquiry. 

Presently the master of the rope-walk appeared, and after 
saluting them politely, said, — 

"That boy of mine is not quite bright; all he knows is 
how to make rope." 

He exhibited a wheel to which the strands were fastened 
and explained how they were twisted, then observed, — 

"Formerly, I made rattan ropes and cotton cordage; now 
I only manufacture hempen cables for foreign ships." 

"What are these tags for?" inquired Fitz, pointing to some 
slips of wood, branded, — 

"Royal Mills, Bermondsey, England, 
Warranted all Hemp." 



"They are supplied to me by the foreign merchant who 

buys my rope. I do 
not know what is on 
them." 

When the lads 
told him, he became 
very indignant, say- 
ing,— 

"•' I will not use 

them. I make good 
rope, and do not wish 
to have it sold as 
English. This is 
how foreigners kill 
our native trade. I 
always imagined those labels bore my i\ame and address." 
" Now you know," said Johnnie. " Good-day." 




toy-maker. 



LANDING IN JAPAN. 



29 



They proceeded to the next street, where they halted before 
a house, in the front room of which sat a man making dolls 
without legs or arms, — queer-looking things, with comical 
features. 

As he painted the toys, he stuck them into a block of rice- 
straw, bound with a cord of the same material. He was a 
merry fellow; and on seeing his visitors, cried, — 

"Ah! my lords; want a nice toy to carry home to 3^our 
family? My Daruma are the best-made articles in Nagasaki, 
only live sen each." 

Johnnie purchased one for Sallie, and as he carried it to the 
inn, asked why it had no legs. 

"Daruma was one of Buddha's 
disciples," slyly answered Oto. 
" He was so pious, and prayed so 
continually, that he wore his limbs 
clean down to his body. In the 
old times, he was greatly vene- 
rated. Now his face, wrapped in 
tobacco-leaves, is used as a tobac- 
conist's sign, and that rolling toy 
is made in his image. Our bo3's 
always fashion their snow-men af- 
ter that shape" 

"Isn't it making fun of him? " suggested Johnnie. 

"Of course it is," returned Oto. "We Japanese make fu.. 
of everything." 

The boys returned to the inn, where they found the rest of 
their party partaking of dinner. 

"What sort of a bill of fare is it?" asked Fitz of Sallie, 
who was doing her best to eat with chop-sticks. 

" Oh, it isn't so bad," she replied. " The rice is nice, the 
soup pretty good, and the fish delicious." 




L— 



TOYS REPRESENTING THE GOD 
DARUMA. 



30 



YOUNG AMERICANS IN JAPAN. 



"Yes," nodded the Professor, "it is all well cooked and 
served, and is very nutritious. Make up your minds to like it, 
and it is excellent." 

After dinner, the ladies w^ent into the kitchen, and were 
introduced to the daughter of their hostess, who was spinning 

cotton with an old- 
fashioned wheel. 
She worked very 
rapidly, and talked 
fr e e 1 y with her 
visitors, asking a 
hundred questions 
concernino- Amer- 




and its 



peo- 



(i^yor 



WOMAN SPINNING. 



ica 
pie. 

"Are you hap- 
py? " inquired Mrs. 
Jewett, who was 
an advocate of 
woman's rights. 

"Yes," was the 
laughing reply. 



^P "Are you? I 



have all I want, 
and what more can 
I wish?" 

Mrs. Jewett did 
not inquire any 
further. 



They spent the remainder of the day in their room, which 
overlooked a miniature garden, that their hostess said repre- 
sented a real scene. % 

At the back, built against the fence, was a rockery contain- 



LANDING IN JAPAN. 



31 



ing a cave, before it being a diminutive image of a goddess. 
A small bridge crossed the tiny stream, and the latter was alive 
with frogs that winked and blinked at the foreigners, as though 
they knew they were strangers. 

" I keep this in order myself," remarked their hostess. "If 
the frogs get into your room, please do not injure them." 




A MINIATURE GARDEN. 



" I will not," said Mrs. Jewett, who fervently hoped the 
creatures would remain in their proper quarters. 

About nine o'clock, the guests began to retire for the 
night. 

The chamber adjoining the boys', was a large one, in which 
four young Japanese were accommodated. 

These lads were students, and full of fun. "Hello! " cried 
one of them, addressing Oto. " How are you, my lord. I sup- 
pose, because you wear American clothes, and speak the 
language, you think yourself too good to recognize your old 
comrade, Ichiro?" 



32 



YOUNG AMERICANS IN JAPAN. 



"What !" exclaimed Oto, "are you the little boy I left in 
Tokio?" 

"No; I am the young man you find in Nagasaki," was the 
bantering response. 

Oto was overjoyed to meet his friend, and when he had 
introduced the Jewett boys, they had a good time. 




INTERIOR OF SLEEPING- APARTMENT. 



That night they left the screens open between the apart- 
ments, and the last thing Johnnie saw was Oto, who, dressed 
in one of his schoolfellow's robes, was sitting near him, chatting 
in Japanese, while the three other students were lying prone 
on the floor, with their shaven heads propped upon woodea 
pillows, shaped like clogs. 

Then, wearied with his first day's experience in Japan, the 
young American fell asleep. 



SIGHTS OF NAGASAKI. 



33 



CHAPTER III. 

SIGHTS OF NAGASAKI. 

The maids were singing in the kitchen, and 
I heard the shampooers whistHng in the street ; 
Then I turned over on my mat, and said : 
" I think it is time I arose." — Japanese Poem. 

AT daybreak Fitz was awakened by the noises of the inn, and 
a continuous low whistling in the street. 

He aroused Oto, who quoted the foregoing poem; add- 
ing,— 

"Would you like to be shampooed?" 

"I would," said Johnnie, opening his eyes. "I want a 
bath, and to have my hair dressed." 

"Our shampooers do not fix one's hair in the American 
fashion," observed their friend. "They punch, pound, rub, 
and knead the body, and make you feel as limber as an acro- 
bat. If you would like that, I will go out and secure three of 
them." 

"Go ahead," cried Fitz. 

When Oto had departed, Fitz rose, and slipping on his 
clothes, proceeded to the kitchen for a cup of water. 

He found the cooks hard at work boiling huge vessels of 
rice over small earthen furnaces, the fuel of which was char- 
coal. Addressing a girl, who was polishing a saucer and sing- 
ing at the top of her voice, he said, — 

" Miss, will you kindly give me some water? " 

She stopped short in the midst of an excruciating quaver, 
and, bowing, replied, — 



34 



YOUNG AMERICANS IN JAPAN. 



"Sir, do not drink water; it is bad for3-ou." Then pouring 
some tea into a porcelain cnp, handed it to him, remarking, — 




KITCHEN-MAID. 



" Your honorable father and mother, and your sister, have 
gone to the Buddhist temple. They left word with me for 
you to follow them." 

Having said this, she resumed her song, as follows: 

" O-oee oyazo dono so-no-kane 
KocJii-raye kashite gun-7ian-se.^^ 

The literal translation of which is, — v 



Or, " See here, old gentleman, 3'ou must lend me that money." 

She screeched this at the top of her voice, quavering each 
note, in such a comical fashion that Fitz could not avoid 
smiling, — noticing which, she said, — 

" My lord, your friend is calling you." 

The girl evidently considered herself a first-class singer, 
and resented his exhibition of merriment. 

Fitz returned to his room, where he found three shaven- 
headed shampooers, clad in white robes. Two of the men 
were engaged in rubbing and slapping Oto and Johnnie, w^ho, 
extended on the floor, appeared to enjoy the performance. 

" Come, my lord," observed the unoccupied man, advancing 
with extended hands, and feeling for Fitz; "I am ready to 
shampoo you." 

"Why, you are blind, are you not?" murmured the lad. 

" Oh, yes," proudly. " I have been sightless from my 
birth, but I can see with my fingers. Now, off with your 
robes, and lie down. I will soon make 3'Ou think you are in 
Paradise." 

The boy obeyed, and in a few moments was being slapped 
and kneaded by the shampooer, who, as he worked, laughed 
and joked in a very merry fashion. 

He snapped the joints of the lad's fingers and limbs, 
rubbed, pounded, and worked at him until Fitz cried, — 

"Guess that will do; I feel as though I want to rise and 
dance. How much do I owe you? " 

The blind man closed his eyes, puckered his face into a 
smile, and bowing, said, — 

My lord, you foreigners always pay what you please." 
I'll settle for this," whispered Oto, giving each man a 
few se7i. 






;^6 YOUNG AMERICANS IN J 

The one who had shampooed Fitz :)rove of 

this interference, and became very saucy, saying, in a mock- 
ing tone: 

" Oh, it is beautiful to go abroad and learn a foreign lan- 
guage. I think I shall send my son to America, then, when he 
returns, he will warn his friends not to give a poor shampooer 
more than a hundred cash (ten cents) for his services." 

"Yes, yes," satirically chorussed the other men; "we, too, 
will send our sons abroad to learn how to grind the faces of 
our countrymen." 

" Let us give them a quarter apiece," suggested Johnnie. 

" Not a cash more," said Oto. " When I was in the States 
you would not permit me to be imposed upon." 

Turning to the indignant blind man, he cried, — 

"Be off, or I will send for the police. I have given each 
of you more than your proper pay." 

Their leader picked up his staff, and, feeling his way out, 
quitted the room, followed by his companions, all of them 
grumbling at the top of their voices. 

" I paid them enough," remarked Oto. " If you begin by 
giving foreign prices and remuneration you will have to con- 
tinue it. How do you feel, boys?" 

" Hungry," they answered. 

Just then a lad peeped into the room and cried in a shrill 
tone, — 

^^O-mammal O — h maa maV 

" Your mother isn't here. Go on to the next den," said 
Johnnie. 

Oto smiled. 

^^0-mammal'''' again yelled the boy, glancing at Fitz. 

" Did not that gentleman tell you that your mamma isn't 
here?" said Fitz. "Go 'long!" 

"Come in, boy," laughingly obseiVed Oto; "I will take 
some." 



SIGHTS OF NAGASAKI. 



37 



In walked the lad, bringing a bucket containing cold rice, 
some bowls, and a dipper. 

He placed the articles on the floor, and served Oto with a 
ladleful; then handing him a pair of chopsticks, once more 
addressed the other lads, saying, 

^'^ 0-mam?na ! ''^ 

" Go along," cried Fitz. " Haven't I told you your mother 
wasn't here? Give me some of that rice, I'm hungry." 

"And so am I," said Johnnie; adding, "you are a big 
fellow to go bawling 'round for your mother." 

The waiter, for such was his occupation, did not take any 
notice of their remarks, but, after serving them, went off" yelling 
his strange cry. 

" I suppose this is a sort of breakfast? " said Fitz, as he 
attacked the food. 

" It's o-mamma^ the vulgar name for boiled rice," mer- 
rily responded Oto. "The lad was not calling for his 
mother!" 

" I thought amma was the Japanese for a child's nurse," 
growled Fitz. "Why didn't you tell us what it meant? We 
never played off" such jokes upon you." 

Oto's eyes sparkled merrily as he answered, — 

"What, never? I remember the first evening I was at 
your house, when I went to take a bath I found the soap would 
not lather. I scrubbed and rubbed until I almost took the skin 
off" my body, then discovered the point of your joke. Pardon 
me if I have permitted you to learn for yourselves that 
o-mamma is not ^where's my mother.'" 

They laughed heartily at his gentle revenge, and after they 
had partaken of the food, set out for the Temple, which was 
built upon a hill in the outskirts of the city. 

The morning sun was well up, and its rays were powerful, 
so the boys purchased paper umbrellas, and walked slowly. 



38 YOUNG AMERICANS IN JAPAN. 

They crossed a narrow bridge, spanning a shallow stream, 
and saw that below on their left the water had been led off 
into a sort of canal to feed an undershot wheel. 

"That is a rice-mill," said Oto. "We shall see lots of 
them during our travels." 

"Are there any fish in this stream?" inquired Fitz of a boy 
who was regarding him with open mouth. 

The lad, amazed to hear a foreigner speak his language, 
nodded, and said, — 

"Yes; there's plenty of trout in that water, but you had 
better not try to catch them. It is owned by Mr. Sixteen-fields, 
who will not kill anything." 

"He must be a very humane man, — a sort of Henry 
Bergh," said Johnnie. 

" Oh, no," answered Oto. " He is only a fanatical Bud- 
dhist. They won't even kill flies." 

Leaving the mill-wheel plashing, and the mill going "thud — 
thud — thud!" they ascended a steep street, and soon neared 
their destination, — a temple dedicated to "The ever Merciful 
Buddha." . - 

The approach to the building was by a series of stone steps,, 
that showed signs of the wear of millions of sandalled feet. 
On each side of these flights were low buildings devoted to 
the sale of charms and rosaries. 

" What a curious roof," remarked Johnnie. " The frame 
of the building must be ver}^ strong to support such a weight " 

"Yes," answered Oto; "the temple is built of solid 
beams, hewn out of forest-trees. It has stood many an earth- 
quake." 

They ascended the ^ast steps, and entered the enclosure 
containing the main building of the temple. 

"Look at those strange trees," said Fitz "What are 
they?" 



40 YOUNG AMERICANS IN JAPAN. 

"Tree ferns," returned Oto. "They were brought from 
India, and are considered sacred. What do you think of the 
porch of the temple?" 

His companions glanced at the structure, and Fitz said, — 

"It looks top-heavy. Come, I've seen enough of the porch, 
so let us go inside." 

On mounting the temple steps, upon which stood a bozii 
(priest) and five worshippers, they saw the Professor's shoes 
and those of Mrs. Jewett and Sallie. Having removed their 
foot-coverings, the lads entered the building and beheld the 
party squatting upon the matted floor. 

" Scsch!" said the Professor, signalling his sons not to make 
a noise. "Come and sit by us; the bozu are about to com- 
mence the service. Now, boys, be very respectful, and do not 
make loud remarks about what you see." 

"All right, papa," murmured Fitz. "Say, Oto, why do 
they have that screen of fine wire before the altar?" 

" To keep people from firing spit-ball prayers at the image 
of Buddha," answered Oto, in his usual tone. "You need not 
lower your voices until the service begins." 

The main altar was enclosed with a rail, the space thus 
shut off occupying about one third of the temple. On each 
side of the sanctuary were square posts, lacquered black, upon 
which sacred sentences were inscribed in letters of gold, and 
behind the pillars were enormous lanterns of silk, covered 
with texts. 

Right and left of the screen were triple frames filled with 
candles, that twinkled like rows of stars. Between the candle- 
stands was an upright post, surmounted by a slab, on which 
rested a bronze urn that sent forth clouds of incense. 

The boys noted all this, and the motionless bozu, who sat 
behind two metal bowls on the right of ^the altar; also a num- 
ber of tablets placed upon a side-altar on the left of the main 



SIGHTS OF NAGASAKI. 



41 



one, which articles Oto said were spirit-tablets, bearing the 
posthumous names of deceased members of the congregation. 
The pungent smoke of the incense permeated the building, 



"^5^ 




BUDDHIST BOZU (MINISTERS) AT PRAYER. 

and made the eyes of the strangers smart. It had a peculiar 

odor, and Fitz remarked, — 

" I believe they have put cayenne pepper in that stulT." 
After a while worshippers began to arrive, and soon the 

temple was tolerably crowded with men, women, and children. 



42 YOUNG AMERICANS IN JAPAN. 

The festival was to commemorate the death of one of Bud- 
dha's disciples, and the bozu had decorated the high altar with 
artificial lotus-flowers, made of silk and paper. 

As the people entered they fell upon their hands and knees, 
and bowing their heads to the mats, murmured, — 

^^Namu^ Amida, Butsul'''' (Hail, omnipotent Buddha!) 

Then the women repeated a rosary and counted their beads, 
and the men sat up on their heels and smoked their tiny- 
bowled pipes. 

About eight o'clock a bozu began to strike a big bell, hung 
in a low pagoda in the temple-grounds. 

" Now for the fun," said Fitz. 

" Hush! " signalled his father. " Remember this is a Japan- 
ese church." 

When the vibrations of the bell had died away, four bozu 
entered the porch, and facing the people placed their hands 
palm to palm, and intoned in a low, sing-song, — 

^"^Na-a-a-inul A-a-a — mi-i-dal B-u-u-uts!'''' 

They were all shaven-headed, and three of them were mere 
boys. Repeating their chant nine times, they slipped off 
their foot-gear and filed into a curtained recess on the left of 
the sanctuary. 

Soon the veil was raised, and a procession came forth, bells 
were rung, the bozu^ on the right of the altar, struck the metal 
bowls, and the chief bozu, clad in gorgeous vestments, ad- 
vanced into the railed enclosure, behind him being an incense- 
bearer, who wore a strange cap. After them defiled a number 
of suh-bozu, clothed in colored robes. 

A tedious ceremonial followed; bells were rung, incense 
burnt, and more candles lighted, while the bozu chanted, in 
solemn chorus, the one prayer, — 

^^Namu, Amida, Butsuf'' 

Every now and again the worshippers would join loudly 



SIGHTS OF NAGASAKI. 



43 



in the prayer, then fill and light their pipes as though they 
were in a theatre. 

During the service a lay-brother went silently round the 




SERVICE IN THE BUDDHIST TEMPLE. 



altar-rails and peddled holy candles, his customers waiting for 
his approach with clasped hands and bowed heads. 

After the officiating bozu had retired, the four who had 



44 YOUNG AMERICANS IN JAPAN. 

first entered reappeared, carrying low tables, on which piles 
of narrow slips of paper were neatly arranged. They marched 
into the enclosure, bowed before the altar, seated themselves 
near the rails, and placed the trays before them. 

Each was provided with a portable writing-apparatus, con- 
taining brushes, and a sponge moistened with ink. 

Their appearance caused quite a commotion among the 
worshippers, who crowded about the nev^-comers, shouting, — 

" Ten prayers for me ! " 

" Five for me ! " 

" One for me, for good luck at fishing! " 

" One for me, that I may find a pot of money! " 

The bozic listened unmoved until the crowd formed into 
anes, when they attended to each person in turn. 

Some wanted prayers that were ready printed, others 
requested special ones to be written for them, the price of the 
latter varying with the length of the petition. 

As the purchasers received the strips, they put them in 
their mouths and chewed them to pulpj then advancing to the 
centre of the altar-rail, threw the pellets at the wire screen 
before the image of Buddha. 

"What do 3^ou think of all this, Sallie?" inquired Oto of 
the amazed girl. 

" I think it is dreadfully silly," she whispered. " You don't 
believe in it, do you, Oto?" 

"No," he answered; " it is very shocking to see my coun- 
trymen thus steeped in ignorance." 

" Look at that old woman," said Fitz, with a chuckle; "she 
has had three shots, and missed every time. Jeminy! " 

" Come," said Mrs. Jewett, "suppose we return to the inn; 
I have seen enough of this." 

They sent a boy round to the front entrance to procure their 
shoes, then quitted the temple by a rea^ porch, in which was 



SIGHTS OF NAGASAKI. 



45 



suspended an enormous painting, representing the trial of sin- 
ners by Ema, the god of the nether regions, who, though he 
had a back seat in the picture, was depicted five times as large 
as any of the sinners occupying the foreground. These unfor- 
tunates were regarding their future fate in a metal mirror held 
by a horned demon. 




PICTURE OF BUDDHIST LAST JUDGMENT. 



As the visitors quitted the grounds, the Professor said, — 
"I am both shocked and amazed, — shocked to see a por- 
tion of an otherwise intelligent people so steeped in super- 
stition; and amazed to notice how happy and light-hearted 
they all appear." 

"Yes," said Mrs. Jewett; "I did not see a sad flice among 



4-6 YOUNG AMERICANS IN JAPAN. 

them. They seemed to look upon the service as a duty to be 
performed as soon as possible." 

" I think the spit-ball prayers were comical," said Fitz. 
^4'd like to have had a shot or two, so I would! " 

"Oh, brother," whispered Sallie ; "you forget that is 
idolatry." 

"Yes," he answered; "still, I think it is fun all the same." 

Upon arriving at the inn, they found the place in great 
confusion. 

" Oh ! " cried one of the waitresses. " Our master is 
dying ! " 



NAGASAKI BY NIGHT. 47 



CHAPTER IV. 



NAGASAKI BY NIGHT. 



"When evening spreads her veil over the city, 
Go forth and watch the scenes in the houses : 
It is thus you will learn the ways of the people." 

Japanese Poem. 

OTO quieted the girls by informing them that he was a medi- 
cal student, then went to the host's apartment, where he 
found the sufferer in the hands of two quacks. 

One of them, an old fellow, who wore spectacles, was feel- 
ing the patient's pulse, and the other was holding the man in a 
sitting position. On the matted floor were a medicine-chest, 
and a bundle containing a box of herbs. 

As Oto entered the room their hostess, bearing a tub of hot 
liquid, advanced to her husband, and said, — 

" Here is the infusion of oak-leaves." 

" One moment, honorable wife," sternly remarked the elder 
of the quacks; "I find the yo (hot) principle predominates in 
your husband's body; we must therefore give him i'n (cold) 
infusions." 

"Shall I open the medicine-chest?" inquired his assistant. 

" Yes," nodded the senior partner. " Honorable wife, come 
and support your husband while we prescribe for him." 

The woman, who was greatly agitated, obeyed, and the 
younger practitioner proceeded to unfasten the packages. 

" Give him a dose of deer-horn powder, with a pinch of 
dried toad-dust," continued the old quack, who was still exam- 



48 



YOUNG AMERICANS IN JAPAN. 



ining the patient's pulse. " This is a severe case of fever in 
the bones, and requires to be treated with a powerful remedy."' 
Hearing this, Oto lost patience, and, advancing, exclaimed: 
"You impostors! You talk like Chinese doctors. Get out 
of this, and leave the man to me; I will cure him in twenty- 
four hours ! " 

Thus speaking, he drove the quacks out of the room, and, 
addressing the amazed landlady, said, — 




THE SICK LANDLORD AND THE QUACKS. 

"Do not be alarmed; I am a graduate of the Imperial Col- 
lege of Tokio, and have studied medicine abroad. Now let me 
examine your husband. Deer-horn powder and dried toad-dust 
indeed! Such rubbish would only make the sick man worse." 

He proceeded to ascertain the sufferer's malady, — after 
doing which, he said, — 

"This is a case of intermittent fever. I will prepare you 
some medicine that will relieve him. Do not let those quacks, 
see him again, or I will not answer for the consequences." 



NAGASAKI BY NIGHT. 49 

He gave her minute instructions how to nurse her husband, 
and told her he would visit him every hour, then returned to 
his friends. 

"Well," asked Johnnie; "is the man dead?" 

" No," quietly answered Oto. " He soon would have been 
if I had not gone to his rescue. Those quacks kill five per- 
sons where they cure one." 

" So do ours at home," said Mrs. Jewett. "Are there no 
regular practitioners in Japan?" 

"Yes," returned Oto. " Our government has built hospitals 
in every city, and is doing everything in its power to expose 
the wretches who prey on the credulity of our people; still, I 
think ignorant folks rather like being quacked," adding, with a 
smile, "I found it so in the States! " 

" We, as a nation, believe in humbug," said the Professor. 
"Although we have the very best surgeons and physicians in 
the world, many of our citizens prefer to consult impostors, 
and to swallow patent medicines. You Japanese are no worse 
than we are." 

" Thank you. Professor," said Oto, bowing. " Come, are 
you ready for dinner? " 

They all answered in the affirmative, and their friend went 
to the kitchen to order the meal. 

After a brief delay, a number of servants entered, bearing 
zen (low tables) filled with dishes of food, which they set 
before each of the party. When the covers were removed the 
attendants retired, and, the Professor having asked a blessing, 
Oto said, — 

"You will find this bean-soup nice; the lumps in it are 
pieces of fish. That clear white food is raw carp; it is very 
good. The boiled fish is also excellent. The vegetables are 
potatoes, turnips, and mushrooms." 



50 YOUNG AMERICANS IN JAPAN. 

"Raw fish!" murmured Johnnie. "Who ever heard of 
eating fish in that st3''le?" 

" Try it before you condemn it," said Oto. " You eat lots 
of raw fish in the States." 

"We do?" cried Fitz, who was ruefully regarding his food. 
" Bet you we never do." 

"Fitz," gently remarked his mother, "you must not say 
"^bet,' — it is vulgar." 

"Well, we don't eat raw fish, anyhow," growled the lad. 
"Where are the knives and forks?" 

"You must eat with chopsticks," said his father, taking two 
from a bowl. " Remember, you agreed to live in Japanese 
fashion, and must give it a thorough trial. Oto, you say we eat 
raw fish in America, — what do you mean? I never indulged 
in such a luxury." 

"Never ate oysters on the half-shell, or Little-Neck clams, 
sir? " slyly inquired Oto. 

" You have me there," laughingly answered the Professor. 
" Come, wife, come, Sallie, and you, my sons, give Japanese 
food a trial." 

A great number of little dishes, containing relishes, were 
on each table; and after Oto had told them the nature of these 
condiments, they began to eat. 

" This shoyu is nice," said Fitz, referring to a sort of catsup. 
" Say, Oto, where is the meat? " 

" You will not find any in a regular Japanese hotel," he 
answered. " If you want that sort of thing you must go to a 
shop where they sell foreign food." 

"Oh!" muttered Fitz; "this is a country." 

Oto's eyes twinkled, and he merrily retorted, — 

"That's just what I said of America when I first landed! " 

They contrived to make a good meal, though none but the 
Professor and Oto touched the uncooked food. 



NAGASAKI BY NIGHT. 



51 



"We have not been educated to that," remarked Mrs. 
Jewett. "It may be nice, still I have ho desire to try it." 

The afternoon w^as spent in v^riting home and in resting, 
the weather being very. sultry. 

After supper, they sallied out to see Nagasaki by night. 

The living-rooms were all open to the street, and the occu- 
pations and amusements of the inhabitants could be seen with- 




THE GAME OF CATCHING THE FOX. 



out the spectator entering the dwellings. Upon the party 
halting before a house in which some men and women were 
shouting, laughing, and enjoying themselves, Mrs. Jewett 
motioned her husband to go on, when Oto said, — 

"You need have no scruples; it does not hurt the people 
to look at them. Those folks are playing a game called "^ Catch 
the Fox.' " 

The head of the family noticed the strangers, and invited 
them into the veranda, then begging them to excuse him, 
resumed his sport, he acting the part of the fox. 



52 YOUNG AMERICANS IN JAPAN. 

It was a strange scene. The lamps threw dark shadows, 
and but partly lighted the apartment, where nine persons were 
collected, — six of the party being men, and the remainder 
women. Two males, stripped to the waist, sat nearest the 
balcony, holding a rope, in the centre of which was an open 
noose. Behind the latter was a sambo (stand), supporting a 
small bowl filled with sake (rice wine). 

Two of the women began to play samisen (guitars), while 
the men on their left beat time with sticks, which they struck 
on cups or clashed together. 

The host, who wore nothing but his trousers, tied a fan on 
the top of his head, which caused his shadow to resemble that 
of a fox, hence the name of the sport. He danced^ jumped, 
and gambolled like a schoolboy, artfully advancing backwards 
and sideways until close to the noose, when he would suddenly 
drop upofi the ground, and, inserting his head, endeavor to 
touch the bowl. If he succeeded, he was permitted to drink 
the contents; but whenever he failed, the watchers tightened 
the noose and captured him, and everybody yelled with delight. 

It was a rough, coarse amusement; still, they all appeared 
to enjoy it, and there was no dissent or quarrelling. 

The Jewetts quitted the scene, and walked on until they 
came to a perambulating astronomer, who was loudly calling 
attention to his telescope, — with which, he assured the spec- 
tators, he could see " the hares scouring the face of the moon 
with rushes ! " 

In one hand he h^eld a blazing torch of bruised bamboo, 
and in the other a powerful magnifying-glass. 

After a while a coolie advanced, and paying him a few 
cash, said, — 

"^^ I want to see the hares at work." 

" Close one eye, and apply the oth^r to the telescope," said 
the crafty fellow; "you will then behold the lovely animals." 



NAGASAKI BY NIGHT, 



S3 



The coolie did as he was directed, gaping all the while in 
a puzzled fashion; then he said, — 

" I can't see the hares." 

"Oh, they are there," gravely answered the exhibitor. 
"Pay for another peep, and try again." 

The greenhorn handed over a second fee, and renewed his 
gaze, presently remarking, — 




A PERIPATETIC ASTRONOMER. 



"I think I see their tails! " 

"Yes," was the sly response; "they have just retired into 
their holes! Now, don't gape any more at them; these foreign 
gentlemen desire to see the wonderful sight." 

He pushed the coolie away, and cried, — 

"Oh — yes — this is a splendid instrument; everybody of 
importance looks through it," — adding, with a sly grimace at 
the crowd: "It once belonged to the Emperor of America!" 

When the Professor endeavored to direct the telescope 
toward the evening star, he found the works would not move; 
and noticing his attempt, the astronomer said, — 



54 



YOUNG AMERICANS IN JAPAN. 



" My lord, please don't Interfere with it. It is not lucky to 
spy at anything but the moon." 

Johnnie told him that the planet was not inhabited by hares, 
but the fellow only grinned, and said, — 

"All right; you 
say it is not, I say 
it is ! Now, as 
neither 3^ou nor I 
have ever been 
there, who is to tell 
which of us is 
right ? " 

They left him, 
and he resumed his 
cry,— 

" Honorable 
masters, come and 
see the hares at 
work polishing the 
moon! " 

Oto conducted 
his party into the 
main street, and 
said, — 

"Our ignorant 
folks think those 
spots on the face 
of the moon are hares cleaning the surface of the planet with 
equisetum (scouring rushes). Is it not ridiculous?" 

" It is not more absurd than our ancestors' belief that there 
was a man in the moon," answered Mrs. Jewett. 

" I think the showman was smart," ^aid Fitz. " He scarcely 
gave the coolie time to peep before he asked for a second fee. 
He beats the telescope man on Boston Common." 




'^f-r^r^, /c/» 1/ 



SHADOWS ON THE WALL. 



NAGASAKI BY NIGHT. 



55 



In one house they beheld a woman making shadow-pictures 
on the screens, to amuse her two elder children; while her 
third, an infant, calmly slept upon the floor of the apartment. 

She produced many clever results by using her fingers and 
the drapery of her dress, — one shadow, that of a fox on its 
hind legs, being very clearly represented. 



liilli!|p' 




PLAYING CARDS. 



On seeing the strangers, she squatted upon the floor, and 
her children ran to her, crying, — 

''Mogul'' (Chinese.) 

"Come," said Mrs. Jewett, "we will not intrude any 
longer." 

They halted a little further down the street in order to 
watch a family pla3nng cards. There were four men and two 
women, and all of them talked at once; shouting and laughing 
as though they were having a good time. 

The cards were inscribed with halves of verses, and the 
game was to secure as many complete sets as possible. First, 



56 YOUNG AMERICANS IN JAPAN. 

the dealer gave each person six cards from his pack; then 
the plsLyer on his left shouted, — 

"The beautiful lotus springs from the mud." 

^'^ Hai (yes) ; hand it this way! " cried one of the women, 
exhibiting a card bearing the other half of the verse, viz., — - 

" Thus the soul of man emerges from its sin ! " 

"Very poetic," murmured the Professor. 

"Yes," said Fitz; "but I prefer cribbage. That game of 
theirs is like our "^Authors.'" 

They left them matching verses, and laughing as though it 
were immense fun. 

After walking some distance, they entered a tea-house, 
where the people were listening to a celebrated singer who 
had recently arrived from Tokio. She knelt behind a low 
music-stand, and played a samisen (guitar), using an ivory 
instrument to touch the strings. A dead silence prevailed 
among the audience, and as soon as the foreigners were sup- 
plied with tea, the singer began, — 

^^Tagai sosho asei kamabe-sushi I ''"' (When the frogs sing 
noisily in the fields.) 

This was shrieked in a quavering falsetto, that caused the 
ladies to wince, the Professor to close his eyes, and the boys 
to chuckle. 

The singer twanged her instrument, shook her notes, hung 
on one of the latter for half a minute at a time, and, following 
the Japanese idea, set at defiance every canon of our musical 
art; winding up with a sudden gasp, as though something had 
broken in her lungs. 

Oto, who had listened with breathless admiration, turned to 
Fitz and whispered, — 

" What do you think of that? " 

"She's almost killed mother!" replie^ the young monkey. 
"I feel melancholy! Let us get out of this." 



NAGASAKI BY NIGHT. 



57 



To their surprise, the Professor decided to remain. He 
said the music interested him, and that it resembled Wagner's. 




A FAMOUS SINGER. 



However, when he saw his wife's appealing look, he rose and 
led the way out. 

"Oto," remarked Mrs. Jewett,(^on reaching the now deserted 
street, "please never take me to hear a singer again: another 
such treat would completely shatter my nerves." 



S8 



YOUNG AMERICANS IN JAPAN. 



"Why, didn't you like it?" asked Oto. "I thought you 
were fond of music." 

"That is not music at all, — it's pandemonium! " said John^- 
nie. "Oh, my! didn't she squall? " 

" I am very sorr}-," answered Oto. " O-Den is considered 

one of our best 
singers; I thought 
her voice very 
charming." 

"Oto," said Sal- 
lie, "nov^ I know 
why you did not 
admire Miss Kel- 
logg. I under- 
stand — there is a 
wide gulf be- 
tween Japanese 
and American 
music." 

"A sea — not a 
gulf, but a whole 
ocean!" murmur- 
ed Fitz. "Hello! 
what is that jin- 
gling noise ?^' 

They looked in 
front of them and 
= beheld three men 
advancing with 
staves, on wliich were iron rings that jingled as the bearers 
struck the poles upon the cobble-stones. Each of the new- 
comers also carried a long lantern, and shouted, in a queru- 
lous voice, — 




NIGHT WATCHMEN. 



NAGASAKI BY NIGHT. 59 

^^ Hi-no TojinP'^ (Look out for fire.) 

"These are private watchmen," said Oto; "they still keep 
them on here. In Tokio they have uniformed policemen 
v^ho do that sort of duty." 

"What duty?" queried Johnnie. 

"Why, cry the hour, and scare off the thieves. They 
march at certain hours all over the city. The robbers, who 
always know when the watchmen are coming, hide until the 
patrol has passed." 

" That is what our burglars do," said Fitz. "After all, some 
Japanese things are very much like American." 

"Not the music," laughingly observed Sallie. 

"My dear," gravely remarked her father, "you ridicule 
Japanese music because you cannot understand it. Wait until 
you have heard more of the melodies. There is something 
very weird and melancholy in their airs." 

"Very melancholy!" said his wife. " Come, Professor, it is 
time these young people were in bed. I like Japan, and have 
been much entertained by what I have seen this evening; still, 
I do not believe I shall ever learn to admire the music of the 
country." 

They returned to their hotel, where they found a night- 
porter waiting up for them. 

"How is your master?" inquired Oto. 

The man averted his face, as a Japanese does when he 
desires to say something he deems will be unpleasant, and 
muttered, — 

"Oh! thev're at him asfain! " 

"Who?" queried Oto. 

"Those quacks," was the cautious reply. "As soon as you 
quitted the house, my honorable mistress admitted them." 

Oto, who was very indignant at this, went straight to the 
landlord's room, and, throwing open the screen, beheld a sight 
that made his blood boil. 



6o 



YOUNG AMERICANS IN JAPAN. 



The host, muttering deliriously, was kneeling near a lamp, 
while the spectacled doctor was placing small patches of vege- 
table fibre, at regular intervals, on each side of his patient's 
spine. 

He had just succeeded in affixing the eighth patch, and was 
about to fire them with a taper he held in his left hand, when 




APPLYING THE MOXA. 



Oto rushed forward, and removing the moxa, ordered the fellow 
to be gone. 

An animated wrangle ensued, during which the Professor 
and the boys appeared on the scene. 

"What is the trouble?" demanded the gentleman, glanc- 
ing at the old doctor, who scowled at Oto. " Is the patient 
worse? " 

" He soon would have been," replied the young man. "I 
arrived just in time to save him." Then, turning to the quack, 
he cried: "Get out of this! or I'll burn a moxa on you." 

As the doctor beat a hurried retreat, Fitz, who had merrily 
regarded the scene, inquired, — 



NAGASAKI BY NIGHT. 6 1 

"What is a moxa, — a fire-cracker?" 

"No; it is the fibrous leaf of a mountain plant, rubbed into 
a sort of tinder, and used in pellets on the skin. These lumps 
are fired, and often burn deeply into the flesh. It is all very 
well in some cases, but useless in this." 

When Oto had seen the sick man back to bed, he said to 
the landlady, — 

"Why did you admit that quack? You know I gave you 
strict orders not to do so." 

" Honorable doctor," murmured the agitated hostess, " it 
was not my fault. His mother came here and ordered me to 
send for Doctor Bonsan again. What can a woman do when 
her mother-in-law says nay?" 

They all laughed, and Oto bade her good-night, remark- 
ing,— 

"I'll see the old lady to-morrow. 



62 YOUNG AMERICANS IN JAPAN. 



CHAPTER V. 

KILLING TIME AT AN INN. 

The rain descends like the fall of Kiri-furi 

I am weary of staying in doors. 

When we travel we must expect to be miserable; 

Still the landlord and his wife 

Make our prison as pleasant as possible. 

Let us therefore be contented with 

The Hquid gift of the Gods. — Japanese Poem. 

THE month of July proved a ver}^ wet one, and the travellers 
had plenty of time to study life in a Japanese inn. 

Their landlord, who had quite recovered, was most kind. 
He showed them rolls of pictures (makhnono), and sat with 
them for hours, describing the scenes and amusing his guests 
with his witty comments. 

One day he brought a kakemono (hanging picture), and 
squatting on the floor, said, — 

" This is a very old painting by my grandfather. It repre- 
sents the twelve great signs." 

The boys moved near to him, and he unrolled the picture, 
which was beautifully executed in gold and colors, 

"Are not those your signs for the months of the year and 
the hours of the day?" inquired Fitz, pointing to the figures. 
'^^ Please explain them to us." 

"You are correct in your surmise," replied the man. "We, 
like the Chinese, divide our day into twelve hours, which we 
named after these signs. Now, we are beginning to use the 
foreign terms for the hours. This sigr^ of the rat means the 
hour from midnight until two in the morning. The next sign, 







?i^jr«JV^^^- --^ 



KILLING TIME AT AN INN. 



65 




THE JAPANESE SIGNS FOR THE HOURS. 



66 



YOUNG AMERICANS IN JAPAN. 



the OX, denotes the hour from two to four. Then come the 
tiger, the hare, the dragon and snake, — the last signifying from 
ten to twelve o'clock of 3'our time. After that follow the horse, 
the ram, the ape, the rooster, the hog and the fox." 
"Those were long hours," said Sallie. 
"Yes," he replied. "Particularly when one was sick." 
" You formerly called some years after those signs, did you 
not?" asked Johnnie. 

"Yes," said Oto, "We thus named periods, years and 
months. Now we divide our 3'ear as you do j.nd date from the 
first one of the Mikado's reign. This is the seventh month, 
thirteenth year of the Emperor's rule." 

When they had discussed the merits of the picture, their 
host retired and presently returned with a number of scrolls, 
which he unrolled and exhibited with evident pride. 

"This," he said, "is a 
painting of our birds after 
Hokusai. It was done by 
my brother." 

"Who was Hokusai?" 
asked Fitz. 

" He was one of our 
greatest artists," replied 
their host. " He designed 
the Mangtiwa (ten thousand sketches), and originated this 
style of spirited drawing in outline." 

"I have read about him in Professor Morse's writings," 
remarked Johnnie. 

" Morse?" said the landlord, smiling. "You mean the good 
friend to Japan who taught in the Imperial College at Tokio. 
My son studied under him. Hai-hai! he knows all about 
Hokusai. His pupils remember him^with affectionate regard, 
he is a great scholar." 




#1 



HERONS AND SMALL BIRDS. 



KILLING TIME AT AN INN. 



6'J 



After they had examined the picture of the herons and 
doves, he showed them a sketch of a badger chmbing a 
bamboo. 

" That is what we term a 
silhouette," said Mrs. Jewett. 
" It is very good." 

"Yes," said the landlord. 
" It was done by my brother. 
Here is another picture after 
Hokusai, gan (geese) fishing, 
a king-fisher, and some swal- 



That large bird is a 
the emblem 



of long 




lows, 
stork, 
life." 

" Have you any picture by 
Hokusai?" asked the Pro- 
fessor. 

The man carefullyre-rolled 
his treasures and, bowing, 
retired. In a few moments 
he returned with a inakemono 
which he untied, saying, — 

" This was done by a pupil 
of the great artist, and is a 
copy of a celebrated picture. 
It represents blind men, — 
shampooers, — crossing a 
river." 

" What funny faces they have," cried Fitz. 

"Yours would be just as comical were you sightless," 
gently answered their host. " See, they are depicted feeling 
their way with their staves, and some are holding on by the 
belt of the person before them." 



BADGER ON A BAMBOO. 



68 



YOUNG AMERICANS IN JAPAN. 



" It is a wonderfully life-like picture," remarked the Pro- 
fessor. "Do you know my brother, Dr. Jewett." 

" My son does," was the 







response. " I have never 
had the pleasure of having a 
limb removed by your honor- 
able relative." 

This, speech caused the 
travellers to smile, when the 
landeord said, — 

"Indeed, they tell me he 

does it like blinking one's 

eyes. Ah! you Americans are a wonderful people. Would 

you like to hear a lady perform on the koto (harp) ? I have a 

guest who will be pleased to play for your entertainment." 

"Does she sing?" inquired Mrs. Jewett. 



GEESE, SWALLOWS, AND KING-FISHER. 




MEKURA HINIX, BEGGARS BLIND. 



KILLING TIME AT AN INN. 



69 



"Unfortunately, no," answered the man. 

All said they would be charmed to hear her perform on the 
national instrument, hearing which the landlord retired, and, 
after a brief delay, returned with a young girl, who was 
followed by a servant bearing a curious apparatus which he 
deposited on the floor. 

The performer bowed gracefully, then, fitting some ivory 




PLAYING THE KOTO (HARi'). 

tips on her fingers, began to tune the instrument, one end of 
which was supported by two legs while the other rested on the 
mats. 

She moved the bridges and touched each string sharply, 
then began to play a bewildering air. Sometimes the Jewetts 
imagined she was about to execute a tune, and listened to catch 
it, but in another moment she struck an inharmonious note, 
and to their disappointment ended the melody. After playing 
several times, she bowed, received their thanks and retired. 



70 



YOUNG AMERICANS IN JAPAN. 



^^ Your music is like your singing," said Mrs. Jewett. "Just 
as one thinks one can make out a connected tune, off goes 
the air at a tangent, and, oh dear! it is not what we call har- 
mon3\" 

" Come," said Oto. " The rain has ceased, let us go to the 
drug-store. I want to bu}^ some medicine for a child belong- 
ing to one of the guests. 
My patient is a pretty 
little fellow who wears his 
hair in the American fash- 
ion." 

" I would so like to see 
him," said Sallie. 

" He has gone for an 
airing, though I think he 
will be back in a moment," 
said Oto. " I wish to tell 
his nurse something be- 
fore we go out. The 
poor child has lost his 
mother, and were it not 
for his attendant, would 
fare badly, as his father is 
employed in the custom- 
house, and is away all day." 
Presently they glanced 
out of the window and 
saw a girl coming along 
the street, carrying a little 
boy on her back. 
"That is Master Shiuichiro," said Oto. "Is he not a dear 
fellow? His nurse, O-Momo, takes hii^i everywhere. See, she 
has stopped, and is telling him to wave his hand to me." 




MASTER SHIUICHIRO AND HIS NURSE. 



KILLING TIME AT AN INN. 7^ 

Johnnie sketched the pair, and when the girl entered with 
her charge, showed her the picture. 

She had, of course, left her clogs in the veranda, so did not 
look quite as tall as when on the street. 

Shiuichiro was naturally very shy; however he quickly took 
a liking to Sallie, who invited the nurse to bring him to their 
room some evening. 

" All aboard for a walk," shouted Fitz. " After being kept 
a prisoner by the rain, I'm just hungry for a run in the fresh 
air. Come, Sallie, kiss the child ana hurry up. I want to 
make an important purchase." 

When the girl attempted to do as her brother suggested, 
Shiuichiro resisted, saying, — 

"No, no! I don't like it. You hurt me." 

" He does not understand kissing," quietly observed Oto. 
'^ When we salute a child affectionately, we rub him on the top 
of his head." 

" Did you never kiss your mother? " asked Mrs. Jewett. 

"Never," he replied. " If I were to do such a thing, my 
honorable mother would imagine I had taken leave of my 
senses." 

"And yet you love her, Oto?" 

" Yes, ma'am. I do not think any one would doubt that. 
I have written to my honorable mother every week since I left 
her; and since I have arrived here have sent her a letter every 
day. She is the first in my heart." 

They quitted the inn, and walked toward the pharmacy; 
Oto going first with Johnnie, and Fitz taking care of Sallie. 

The people were very civil, and nobody molested them; 
though the Professor's long hair and broad-brimmed hat were 
the subjects of much subdued comment on the part of the 
children, who evidently took him for a lady. 

"What is 3^onder man doing with that magnifying-glass? " 



7^ YOUNG AMERICANS IN JAPAN. 

asked Johnnie, pointing to a group of persons in front of a 
little restaurant, the entrance of which was garnished with 
birds and vegetables, and bore the following sign: — 

The Most A'^our is/ling Foreign Food 

Always on hand by 

Tomo Yasunosuke. 

" He is a palmister," replied Oto; "and is endeavoring to 
induce that shampooer to have his fortune told. Let us watch 
them. Those fellows are most amusing impostors." 

The man was squatting near the right of the entrance, 
bc'fore him being spread a cloth on which were some books, 
writing-materials, and two magnifying-glasses. 

On his right was a blind man, neatly clad, who, as he 
squatted, rested his pole on his shoulder, and held his rain 
umbrella in his hand. 

On a bench to their left sat a peddler, who leaned upon his 
pack and watched the speaker; as also did two ruddy-faced 
waitresses, who evidently took a great interest in the pro- 
ceedings. 

Oto motioned his friends to hurry forward, and the party 
halted and listened. 

The palmister wore a towel on his head, and had an 
immense mouth, the corners of which he from time to time 
slily twitched. 

"Yes, yes!" he cried, holding one of the magnifying- 
glasses in his left hand, and examining the fingers of his right. 
" I am the man who can tell your fortune, Mr. Swampmeadow. 
Come, do not be so stingy. I will reveal your future for ten 
sen (cents). Let me look at the palm of your right hand, and 
I will predict just what sort of luck you are going to have and 
how long 3^ou will live." 

The blind man chuckled, and sarcas^cally replied, — 

" That is too cheap. As to my luck, I am satisfied. With 



KILLING TIME AT AN INN. 



7Z 



regard to how long I have to live, only the gods know that. 
I prefer to keep my money," 




A PALMISTER AND HIS CUSTOMER. 



"You rich shampooers are all as mean as possible," growled 
the palmister. 

"What will you charge me?" inquired one of the 
waitresses, squatting near him and exhibiting her plump 
palm. 



74 YOUNG AMERICANS IN JAPAN. 

" I will tell your fortune for a bowl of rice and a cup of 
tea," he said. " It is a pleasure to examine such a pretty hand. 
Shall I reveal your future .? " 

"Go ahead! " she laughingly answered. 

"What nonsense!" said Fitz in a loud tone. " Scsch," 
breathed Johnnie, "you will spoil the fun." 

The palmister gravely examined the lines on her hand, then 
said in an oracular manner, — 

"You are indeed a fortunate girl. Here is a money-line 
leading from the thumb to the wrist. You will marry a rich 
merchant and go to foreign countries. If you will give me 
ten sen, I will tell you something very good that I see on your 
index finger." 

She produced the money from a paper kept in the bosom 
of her robe, and nervously handed it to him, when he critically 
examined the finger to which he had referred, and said, — 

" You are a favorite of the gods. You will live to be over 
a hundred years old, and have very wealthy descendants, who 
will honor your memory for centuries." 

"All for ten sen! " chuckled the blind man. "Go to — why, 
I would predict her marriage with 2.n ex-daimio (lord) for 
half that sum." 

Then turning his sightless eyes toward the group of for- 
eigners, he said, — 

" Want to be shampooed, your excellencies?" 

" How could you tell we were present?" asked the Pro- 
fessor. 

"I could smell the sweet perfume used by your ladies," 
answered the man. " I have eyes in my nose, ears and fingers." 

" Come," said Johnnie, " this will never take us to the drug- 
store." 

They left the palmister, who was endeavoring to induce the 
peddler to have his hands examined, and followed the main 



76 YOUNG AMERICANS IN JAPAN. 

street until they reached a large building, the front of which 
was protected with wooden bars. 

" It looks like a wild-beast show," said Fitz. "Why do 
they bar it off in that way?" 

"To keep out the loafers," slily answered Oto. 

" The proprietors of our country drug-stores should imitate 
that plan," laughingly remarked Johnnie. 

The narrow sidewalk before the building was neatly flagged 
for the convenience of customers, who waited there while their 
prescriptions were being prepared. Above this projected a 
pent roof, heavily tiled and decorated with signs; similar notices 
being suspended from the front of the store. 

The advertisements written were in Chinese characters, and 
read as follows: — 

" Imperial Jinseng." 

" Imperial Asafcetida." 

" Complete Tranquillity Pills." 

The scene was a bus}^ one, and the friends halted to watch it. 

On the left was a shaven-headed doctor of the old school, 
qarrying in one hand a rain umbrella, which he still kept open, 
and holding in the other a fan. 

Behind him marched his scantily-dressed servant, bearing a 
medicine-chest. 

A little further on was a coolie, who still kept his bearing- 
stick on his shoulder, but who rested one of his burdens on the 
flags while he waited for some herbs which a salesman was 
mixing in a huge bowl. 

"What is that long, white vegetable on the man's load, 
under his rain hat?" asked Sallie. 

"That is a dai-kon (radish)," replied Oto. "It some- 
times grows to an immense size. We use it to make that 
strongly perfumed pickle of which you complained at Golden 



KILLING TIME AT AN INN. 77 

" The pickle that smelt like Limburger cheese," said Fitz. 
"I shall never forget its odor." 

"What is that machine the coolie is carrying?" asked John. 
" It has horns. Is it an advertisement? " 

"No, it is a child's toy, and represents an ancient helmet. 
You M^ill see lots of them in Tokio during the Feast of Flags, 
our boys' festival." 

At the next compartment, a man was buying herbs, which 
the shopman handed through the bars for him to examine. 

" He is a poor quack," said Oto. " He has no one to carry 
his medicine-case." 

As he was speaking, some ladies appeared with a child, 
who, though scarcely able to toddle, insisted on not being led. 

"That is the son of an ex-lord," whispered Oto. "A few 
years ago he would not have been permitted to walk in the 
streets. Now he can enjo}^ himself." 

A boy, on his way to the store to have a cup filled with 
drugs, watched the little fellow, and said, in a mocking tone, — 

^'^ Hail I like to see such things. It shows that the nobles 
are made the same yN2,y we are." 

The ladies frowned at this, but the saucy fellow only 
laughed, and continued, — 

"Oh, we are all alike, now! We are not obliged to wait for 
that until we die." 

The little gentleman regarded him disdainfully, then moved 
on followed by his mother and servants; behind them being a 
male attendant, who walked with his head respectfully bowed. 

A young merchant, who had regarded the scexie from under 
the shade of his fan, turned awa}^, and, addressing Oto, said, — 

" That boy is right. Still the nobles have the money and 
can afford to look down on us." 

"Not on me," quickly returned Oto. "I am as good as 
ddxy noble." 



78 YOUNG AMERICANS IN JAPAN. 

" I understand. You have been in America," said the mer- 
chant. 

" Is that man carrying a pipe ? " asked Sallie, pointing to a 
coolie bearing a curious instrument. 

" No, it is an inhaler," laughingly replied Oto. " Our 
quacks prescribe them for all kinds of diseases. He is going 
to have it filled at the drug-store." 

" Inhaler," said Johnnie. 

"Yes, the patient places certain herbs and drugs in that 
bowl and inhales the air through the tube. It is a pure piece 
of quackery, much affected by my countrymen." 

"And ours," quietly observed Professor Jewett. "Inhala- 
tion relieves some diseases, but will not cure any. Quacks are 
alike, all over the world." 

The visitors approached the store, and when Oto had made 
his purchases, Johnnie asked the shopman, — 

"What sort of drugs do you keep?" 

"All kinds," answered the man. "Our largest trade is in 
pills, draughts and plasters, that are said to cure every ailment, 
though I never take or use them myself. When I am sick I 
go to a doctor who practises in the foreign style." 

" You are wise," said Oto. " Come, boys, we are keeping 
away the customers." 

They quitted the store and went toward the shore, passing 
many shops devoted to the sale of foreign goods. 

"Ah, here is what I want," cried Fitz, indicating a knife 
and fork in a case. " Now I am happy. How much are those, 
Mr. Shopkeeper?" 

" Five yen^^ calmly returned the man. " I bought the instru- 
ments as a great curiosity. People come to my store to see 
them." 

" Five dollars for an iron knife and a two-tined, rusty, old 
fork," ruefully exclaimed the boy. "Jeminy! before I'll pay that, 



KILLING TIME AT AN INN. 



79 



I'll master the art of eating with hashi (chopsticks). Come 
along, he may keep his old things." 

They walked on until they came to a pipe-maker's, where 
they saw two men engraving patterns on the stems of the tiny- 
bowled articles. They did not use a graver, as our artisans do, 
but employed sharp punches and little hammers of steel, with 
which they produced beautiful flowing patterns. 

The elder of the 
men wore round 
spectacles and sang 
as he worked, his 
journeyman some- 
times joining in the 
air, which was to 
the foreigners of 
the usual distress- 
ing kind. 

He kept on, 
never glancing up 
to notice the stran- 
gers, and the sound 
of his hammer 
resembled the "tap, 
tap, tap" of a wood- 
pecker on a tree-trunk. 

They proceeded from the pipe-maker's to the fish-market, 
which smelt strongly and was an inch deep in mud. 

"What has that man got in those enormous buckets?" 
asked Sallie, glancing at a vendor of salt who was chatting 
with a house-servant, whose face was swathed in a towel. 

Oto told her, adding, — 

" Our best salt comes from Ako, on the shore of the Inland 
Sea. It is, ho.wever, when compared with the American 




AN ENGRAVER OF PIPES. 



8o 



YOUNG AMERICANS IN JAPAN. 



article, of a bad color, and full of grit and impurities. The 
kind that man is selling is coarse, and only used for preserving 
fish and making daikon (pickled radish)." 




A PEDDLER OF SALT. 



A brief inspection of the market sufficed, and the visitors 
were glad to retreat tow^ard the main avenue of the city, from 
whence proceeded sounds of drumming and shouting. 

On turning a corner they found ^themselves in a place 
where four streets met. 



'r TIME AT AN INN. 8 1 

To their right was a tobacconist's shop, in which sat a 
woman sorting the weed, while her son watched the antics of 
some dancers, and amused himself with a bob-tail cat. The 
outside screen of the store was decorated with pictures denot- 
ing the business, and bore the name and address of the 
propr^Jtor; and suspended from a copper rod, driven in the 
corner-post of the building, was a gigantic sign — the head 
of the god Daruma, enveloped in tobacco leaves, this deity 
being a favorite with the lower orders of Japanese. 

Upon noticing the presence of the foreigners, the dancing- 
boys uttered shrill cries, threw somersaults, and contorted 
themselves; as they did so, shaking their hideous red masks 
and waving their rooster-feather plumes to the sound of their 
leaders' tambour — while, to increase the din, two girls, 
carrying samisen, stationed themselves across the way, and 
began to thrum and sing at the top of their voices. One of 
the boys carried a long drum, which he from time to time beat 
vigorously, and all of them danced and performed acrobatic 
tricks. 

When their leader heard the sound of the girls' voices, he 
struck his tambour harder than before, and began to sing a 
well-known song from the poem of the " Forty-seven Ronins." 

" A}'e yare Shibitoi Oyasiineto 
Nuki hanaski natino kumoria!''' 

'• ' Oh, pshaw, you obstinate old creature ! ' 

So saying, he swung his sword without any trouble." 

Although his singing had an exceedingly depressing effect 
upon the American spectators, it appeared to exhilarate the 
youthful acrobats, who spun on one foot, drummed, and gave 
way to the excitement of the moment, as though really enjoy- 
ing it. At the word of command, one of them bent his body 
in the form of an arch, while the other, mounting on his com- 
panion's stomach, stood upon his hands and elevated his feet 



82 



YOUNG AMERICANS IN JAPAN. 



in the air. Then the man threw down his tambour, and 
shouting to the boys, bade two of them climb upon his 
shoulders. The drummer unslung his instrument, and, retain- 
ing his head-dress, ascended the old fellow's body, presently 
standing erect on his shoulders, then whistled to one of his 
companions. Up went the blindfolded lad, and when he was 




PERFORMING BOYS. 



in position, the fourth youngster slowly mounted and soon 
stood erect — twelve feet from the grround. 

When this was accomplished, the performers began to wag 
their masks and sing; as the}^ did so, the man turned slowly 
round and round, then advanced toward the foreigners and gave 
a shrill cry, on which the uppermost lad dropped into the arms 
of the one beneath him, then turned a somerset and dropped 
to the ground; the others following him in rapid succession. 
The performance ended by the entire party revolving on their 
hands and feet, yelling and screaming like Indians. 



TIME AT AN INN. 8^ 

It was astonishing lo ^^2 how limber the old man was; he 
went over and over ten times in succession, and repeated the 
feat until both he and his pupils were completely exhausted, 
after- which he approached the spectators and respectfully 
solicited a reward. 

He said the young folks were his grandchildren, that their 
parents were dead, and that his wife and himself subsisted on 
the proceeds of their exhibition, adding, — 

" They go to school, and are saving money to enable them 
to visit the United States and make their fortunes." 

The boys removed their head-pieces, and the travellers saw 
they were healthy-looking and full of fun. One of them asked 
if ever37body in America was rich; and another, whether Fitz 
^nd Johnnie owned watches. The American boys chatted 
with the performers for a while, among other things learning 
that they seldom used salt, and had never partaken of fresh 
meat; that their principal diet was rice, and their names were 
Choshichi, Seibeye, Kichiyemon, and Zensaburo. 

The Professor gave the old fellow a gratuity, then led the 
way back to the hotel. 

That night when Sallie retired to her room, she found 
two young women sleeping on the matted floor. 

" Those are my cousins," said the landlady, who just then 
entered the apartment. " They have this evening arrived from 
Tokio, and I had not a vacant chamber. Both of them are 
very amiable and gentle. You will not object to their pres- 
ence, or to their smoking, will you?" 

" Oh, no; " answered the amazed girl. " I will not disturb 
them." 

When the woman had gone, Sallie watched the sleepers, 
the apartment being lighted with an andon (square paper 
lantern). 

The ladies were pretty, and were slumbering as peacefully 



84 



YOUNG AMERICANS IN JAPAN. 



as infants. Their heads were propped on wooden pillows, on 
which they had placed rolls of paper to keep the dressing of 
their hair from spoiling the lacquer, and to render the articles 
more comfortable. 

They slept, as many Japanese do, in their clothes, and 
were covered with a quilt shaped like a kimono (long robe), in 
the sleeves of which they from time to time thrust their arms. 

Presently one of them awoke, saluted Sallie with a smile, 
lighted her pipe, and chatted as she smoked, in a very pleasant 
manner. 




SLEEPING WOMEN. 



"Will you not try a puff?" she asked. 

" No, thank you," answered the young American. " In my 
country ladies never use tobacco." 

"We all do," was the response. "I am sleepy again. 
Good-night." 

Sallie regarded the slumberers for a few moments, then 
moving quietly toward them, examined their smoking appa- 
ratus, which consisted of a tobako-bon (wooden box containing 
a small pot filled with live charcoal, a^id a smaller one for 
ashes), furnished with a handle by which it could be carried 



KILLING TIME AT AN INN. 



85 



from room to room. It was neatly lacquered and was a good 
specimen of joiners' work. 

The pipe, which was of silver, 
and elaborately chased with floral 
designs, rested on a tobacco-pouch 
of stamped paper that looked like 
leather. This and a piece of rag 
used to wipe the mouth-piece 
formed the outfit. 

"My goodness!" murmured 
Sallie, as she surveyed the articles. 
" What strange tastes these ladies 
have. After all, their smoking is 

not very much worse than our girls chewing gum — both 
habits are bad enough." 

She then retired to her corner and, after saying her prayers, 
quickly joined her Japanese companions in the land of dreams. 




SMOKING APPARATUS. 



86 YQUNG AMERICANS IN JAPAN. 



CHAPTER VI. 

FAREWELL TO NAGASAKI. 

Up on the hillside among the cypresses 

Stands the bell-tower. 

At morn and night I hear its silvery tongue, 

It echoes the voice of the gods. — Japanese Poem. 

ONE morning, in August, our travellers climbed the hillside 
and visited the great bell whose tones they had so often 
heard at sunrise, noon, and sunset. 

"There it is!" exclaimed Fitz, as they reached the level 
space on which the tower was built. "My gracious! is it not 
a big fellow?" 

The object of his remark was suspended in a frame formed 
of four tree-trunks, smoothed and polished, the timbers of 
the roof being beautifully carved and the roof itself heavily 
tiled. 

On each side of the tower were frames to which were 
affixed papers, inscribed with the names and sums given by 
various persons to keep the structure in repair. 

" I would sweep those away," said Sallie. " They disfigure 
the place." 

" If you did no one would give anything," replied Oto. 
" People like to have the amount of their gifts made public^ 
and many persons who now contribute would not do so if 
their names were kept secret." 

"Just as our folks do when asked td give to the church 
building-fund," said Fitz. 




BELL TOWER. 



88 YOUNG AMERICANS IN JAPAN. 

"Yes, human nature is the same everywhere," observed 
Mrs. Jewett. 

As they approached the structure, the keeper, who was 
squatting and dozing in the shade on the left, rose and vanished 
round the corner, presently returning dressed in a kimono 
(long coat). 

No Japanese is now allowed to go unclothed, and the man 
evidently feared he would be reported to the police. He was 
very civil, and led the visitors up the steps in the rear of the 
tower, and showed them how the bell was sounded. 

" I see," said Johnnie. " You use a sort of battering-ram 
which you swing against the metal; it strikes and recoils, leav- 
ing the bell to vibrate. We use a clapper, which being inside 
the bell, checks the sound." 

" There goes our ex-lord," said the keeper, pointing to a 
Japanese who had passed them as they approached the struc- 
ture. "Ah! he formerly used to keep this place in beautiful 
repair, now he is poor, and all the beggars and shampooers in 
the city can have their names in the place of honor." 

The party waited until noon, when the man drew back the 
beam and struck the bell, which sent forth a deafening volume 
of sound. 

" That will do," said Mrs. Jewett. " Come away before he 
strikes it again. Japanese bells, like ours, sound best at a 
distance." 

The man allow^ed them to get out of sight, when he again 
struck the bell, repeating the stroke several i-^TixCs at regular 
intervals. 

After inspecting a temple near by, the party returned to the 
inn, where they found some students from the government 
college who desired an interview with the Professor. They 
were bright lads, and all of them spoke English. 

"We wish to ask if you will honor us by delivering a 



FAREWELL TO NAGASAKI. 89 

lecture on chemistry," said the spokesman. "We have plenty 
of apparatus and an excellent lecture-room." 

That evening the Jewetts and Oto w^ent to the college, 
where they were received by the Faculty, who were dressed in 
foreign costume. 

The students, over four hundred in number, were quiet and 
respectful, and the Professor found everything he wanted to 
illustrate his discourse. 

It was a wonderful sight to see the rows of earnest-looking 
Japanese, listening with rapt eagerness to an alien, speaking in 
a foreign tongue, and showing by their murmured applause 
that they perfectly understood every word he uttered. 

When the lecture was over the Faculty warmly thanked the 
Professor for his kindness, and each student was presented to 
him. 

The President then showed the gentlemen of the party 
through the college, which was beautifully kept and furnished 
in foreign style. 

In the dining-hall was a painting representing the great 
warrior Hideyoshi or, as he is called by foreigners and illiterate 
people, Taiko-Sama. 

"Why do you have that in an institution dedicated to the 
peaceful arts and sciences?" inquired Professor Jewett. "I 
thought Hideyoshi was a great warrior." 

The President bowed, and said, — ,. 

" Hideyoshi was once a groom, but, by dint of working and 
studying hard, and through his natural ability, rose to be one of 
our greatest generals and statesmen. He founded the old 
college that stood on the site of this building, and was a great 
reformer." 

"Johnnie," said the Professor, turning to his son, "you 
have heard of Hideyoshi. He was the General Grant of 
Japan." 



90 



YOUNG AMERICANS IN JAPAN. 



"I thought he was a fillibuster who sent an army of inva- 
sion to the Corea," replied the boy. 

" He built the Mimidzuka (ear-monument), at Kioto, over 
the ears of thousands of Coreans," said Fitz. " You know, 
Oto, you told me all about it." 

"We are not proud of those achievements of his," said the 

President. "What 
we remember is 
the political re- 
forms made by him, 
and the works of 
peace he bequeath- 
ed to us. He be- 
gan what lyeyasu 
perfected and end- 
ed, and he made 
the name of Japan 
respected beyond 
the seas." 

The gentlemen 
rejoined the ladies, 
whom they found 
enjoying tea and 
cakes. 

Astheyreturned 
to the inn, Fitz 
said, — 
" I know why they put the picture of Hideyoshi in that hall." 
"Why?" asked Oto. 

" Because he was a smart man and was successful, like 
General Grant; I remember reading about him. When Japan 
was divided into many petty provinces, or h^ as you term them, 
he whipped the chiefs or lords, and made them acknowledge 




HIDEYOSHI, LIKEWISE CALLED TAIKO-SAMA. 



FAREWELL TO NAGASAKI. 9 1 

the Mikado. While doing this he had an eye to his own 
advancement." 

" Anyhow he was a great man, even though he did build a 
pyramid with the ears of the Coreans," said Oto. " We revere 
his memory just as you will that of General Grant." 

" We do not revere anything," said Johnnie. " General 
Grant will occupy his place in our national history; but we 
shall never make a god of him." 

" Hideyoshi is not one of our gods," warmly answered Oto. 

" Come, boys," cried the Professor, from the next room. " It 
is time you went to sleep. Let Hideyoshi rest for to-night." 

Early the next morning, Oto was called by his friend Ichiro, 
who said, — 

" Our friend Senda is dead. You knew him well, so I 
hope you will go with me to condole with his family." 

The young man rose, and after dressing himself in Japanese 
costume, wrote a letter of sympathy, then set out for the late 
residence of the deceased. 

They found the main entrance closed with a screen of 
green bamboo on which was a placard, marked, — 
" Peacefully reclining Spirit." 

The place was surrounded by beggars, who crowded about 
one of the dead man's relatives and clamored for alms. 

" Give me a tempo — give me a tenipo^'' they cried. " As 
you are charitable, so will the gods aid your late employer." 

One fellow, who wore a piece of grass-matting as a gar- 
ment, yelled so loudly and was so persistent that a servant-girl, 
who was watching the scene, said in a low tone, — 

"Give that wretch a coin, and send him away. He ought 
to be ashamed of himself; he is disturbing the honorable 
corpse." 

Oto and Ichiro were admitted to the house by a side-door, 
and conducted to the presence of tl^e mourners. 



92 



YOUNG AMERICANS IN JAPAN. 



Near the entrance to the apartment in which the deceased 
was lying, were the widow and her daughter, prostrate with 
their faces bowed in their sleeves. The servant, who escorted 
the boys and a third visitor, knelt near the ladies, and quietly 
announced their names; the callers also kneeling, and Oto 
placing his letter on the mat before them. 




GIVING ALMS FOR THE BENEFIT OF THE DEAD. 



Then the three bowed their heads to the floor nine times, 
and murmured their sympathy. 

The widow raised her head, and resting her face on her 
right hand, sobbed her thanks; after which, once more giving 
way to her grief, she buried her features in her sleeves and 
moaned pitifully. 

The three young men entered the next^ room and glanced 
at their late friend, each burning a stick of incense and lighting 



FAREWELL TO NAGASAKI. 



93 



a candle. These were placed with many others in a boat- 
shaped holder. 

On the following day Oto, Ichiro, the Professor and his 
sons, attended the funeral services, which were performed in 
the little chapel of a cemetery situated on the outskirts of 
the city. 




A VISIT OF CONDOLENCE. 



On their way they saw the farmers cutting rice; the instru- 
ments used being of a peculiar shape — a straight blade set at 
right-angles to a handle. 

Oto, who appeared to know everything, thus described the 
harvesting of rice: 

" The crop is made into small bundles, and stacked in large 
heaps. When all the field is reaped, the laborers take the 
bundles separately from the stacks and cut off the heads of 
grain, restacking the straw neatly. 



94 



YOUNG AMERICANS IN JAPAN. 




REAPING THE RICE CROP. 



" The rice is then put in grass baskets, and carried to the 
threshers, who lay it on mats and beat it with flails. After 

this it is sieved, 
cleaned of its husks 
and packed in 
closely-woven, bar- 
rel-shaped grass 
bags, w^hich are 
bound with straw 
ropes and carried 
into the barn, where 
they remain until 
the rice is used or 
sold." 

When the Pro- 
fessor and his companions neared the cemetery, Oto said, — 

" My late friend was a samurai (gentleman or esquire). 
You will see his sons dressed in our old costume. I hope the 

^ ^^— ^ ^ service in the chapel 

will not tire you." 
S^^^^ ^^^M^ri "It cannot be 
more tedious than 
some ministers make 
our funeral exer- 
cises," answered Fitz. 
Why, when old Mrs. 
Kenny was buried, 
they had seven clergy- 
men to perform the 
service at the house, 
REAPING THE RICE CROP. ^ud it was SO latc bC" 

fore they got through, the family were obliged to postpone 
taking her to the cemetery until the next day." 




FAREWELL TO NAGASAKI. 



95 



"That will do, my son," said his father. " Here we are at 
the temple." 

A bozu met them in the porch, and they were conducted 
into the building — a mere shed open at the sides, fm^nished 
with a large curtain and floored with pine boards. 

At the far end was a screened recess, in which knelt the 
eldest son and three brothers of the deceased. These gentle- 
men wore white robes — the old mourning garb of the sa^mirai. 




CUTTING RICE. 



The garments, having hempen wings, looked very odd to the 
the American boys. 

In the centre of the aisle was a long table, on which stood 
an upright tablet inscribed with the posthumous name of the 
deceased, and a bronze vase filled with flowers. 

On the left of this, resting on boards and trestles, was a 
square case covered with a white cloth, surmounted with a 
sort of dome bearing the mon (crest) of the dead gentleman. 

At each corner of the case was a bamboo vase filled with 
evergreens. 

On the right of the aisle were six Buddhist bozu^ three of 



96 



YOUNG AMERICANS IN JAPAN. 



whom clanged bronze cymbals, while a fourth struck a metat 
bowl placed on a stand. The other two counted their beads: 
and led the oft-repeated pra3^er, — 

^^ Namti Ami da ButsuP 

The audience was quiet and respectful; though every now 
and again one of the mourners would sit up, light his pipe,, 
take a whiff, and resume his sorrowful posture. 

"Where is the coffin?" whispered Fitz. 




BUDDHIST FUNERAL SERVICE. 



'' That is it," replied Oto, pointing to the square, w^hite box.. 
"That?" murmured the boy. " Is he doubled up? '' 
"Yes, we sometimes bury our dead with their chins resting 

on their knees," answered Oto. 

" How uncomfortable for them," breathed Fitz. " Well, 

you sleep and sit differently to what we do, so I don't think it: 

matters how you are fixed for burial." 

"Hush," said his father. "Be more respectful." 

The bozu lighted a candle for each year the deceased had. 

lived, burnt incense and sprinkled the coffin with holy water; 

then after many times repeating their prayer, clashed their 



FAREWELL TO NAGASAKI. 97 

cymbals violently, after which the body was taken outside, and 
conveyed to a spot shut off with a tall screen of canvas. 

The mourners and spectators followed, and saw the bearers 
remove the dome and cloth, and place the coffin on a pile of 
wood heaped under a shed. 

The relatives advanced and began to count their beads and 
pray; three bozu taking their places on the opposite side of the 
shed and leading the exercises. 

In front of the bozu was a table on which stood a lighted 
candle and three bowls containing, respectively, rice, sake and 
salt. 

Night had closed on the scene ere the box was deposited on 
the pile, and the spectators could scarcely see each other's faces. 

At a signal from the chief bozti the sexton advanced and 
applied the candle to the pile which had been saturated with 
spirits of wine. It flashed and flickered, revealing the faces of 
the relatives and bozu. 

^^ Namu Amida Butsul Na?nu Amida ButsuV they 
solemnly repeated. 

The flames burnt fiercely and soon enveloped the square 
coffin. 

"Now, boys," whispered the Professor, "we shall return 
home." 

As they quitted the enclosure, Ichiro said, — 

" To-morrow the son and his wife will come and rake the 
ashes to see if their father has left his soul-pills." 

"His what?" demanded Fitz, chuckling. 

Ichiro smiled and replied, — 

" It is most amusing, still many Buddhists firmly believe 
that after a man is burnt, his soul, in the form of small glass 
globules or pills, which are said to cure any disease, remains in 
his ashes. Our friends are of that opinion, and will be on hand 
to-morrow- to search for the precious relics." 



98 



YOUNG AMERICANS IN JAPAN. 



" I believe the bozu throw atoms Qi glass into the fire," said 
Oto. "It is all nonsense, anyhow! " 

" Some persons have enough silicious matter in them to 
make a number of globular pellets," observed the Professor. 
" Well, well, every nation has its superstitions." 

" Will the son take the soul-pills V " asked Fitz. 




liURNING A BODY. 



" No," said Ichiro, with a snicker. " He will keep them in 
a crystal box. It is very rarel}^ that they are found." 

"Jeminy !" cried Fitz. " How comical! I thought he might 
take them for rheumatism. Your countrymen are so fond of 
strange remedies." 

" Our strange remedies are not worse than many of your 
patent medicines," said Ichiro. " Very Vew of our people 
believe in such things. Now we are here, I would like to visit 



FAREWELL TO NAGASAKI. 



99 



my ancestors' graves, I can see lanterns moving near them, 
and think it possible some member of my family may be 
v^orshipping there." 

The moon had risen, and was flooding the scene with its 
glorious light, bringing out the dark fringes of the cypresses 
and the white tombstones in strong relief. 




AT THE ANCESTRAL TOMB. 



The party turned to the left, and presently reached a spot 
near a second temple, where they found quite a number ot 
persons. The monuments were formed of two horizontal slabs, 
surmounted by a square pillar, rounded or pointed at the top. 
This bore the posthumous title of the deceased, which generally 
was a high-flown sentence such as, — 

" Calmly 7'c^osing iiohlc soul.''^ 

It was not a name but a eulogy of the dead, and was 



lOO YOUNG AMERICANS IN JAPAN. 

engraved in a peculiar character that puzzled the boys to 
decipher. On the second slab of each tomb were stone vases 
for jflowers and a hollow for water. 

" That is my uncle's grave," said Ichiro, " where my cousin 
and his wife are kneeling. Uncle died in April, and next 
month they will place the monument in its proper position. 
He was a good man, but he disliked foreigners." 

" Guess he was what we call a Know-nothing," said Fitz. 

" Indeed, he was very intelligent and well educated," quickly 
answered Ichiro. "He was only ignorant of the virtues of 
your honorable nation." 

" Yes, he was what we used to call a Know-nothing," was 
the reply. " Many Americans once hated foreigners, as he did 
us, and were called by that title." 

"Say, Oto," inquired Johnnie. "Why does that man carry 
his beads on his ear?" 

" For the same reason that your book-keepers place their 
pens there," answered the Japanese. " To have them handy." 

"Why did your cousins light those lanterns at the back of 
the tomb?" demanded Fitz. 

Ichiro grinned. 

"Tell me." 

" To let uncle's spirit know they are here," said the boy. 

" The moon is shining brightly enough," merrily observed 
Johnnie. " Isn't that sufficient light for the inkiyo (retired 
old gentleman)?" 

" It is all foolishness, anyhow," muttered Ichiro. " Still I 
think it is only proper to visit the graves of our ancestors and 
friends, and to keep their tombs in nice order." 

" I agree with 3'^ou," said the Professor. " I am afraid young 
America has not much respect for the dead. Your custom of 
visiting the graves of your loved ones is ^beautiful, and should 
be retained." 



FAREWELL TO NAGASAKI. lOI 

After Tchiro had spoken to his relatives, the party quitted 
the spot; leaving the mourners to continue their prayers. 

"What does that pickle-tub contain?" said Fitz, pointing to 
a strongly hooped vessel, before which a lamp was burning. 

" It is a coffin," said Ichiro. " The son of the deceased is 
away, and it will not be disturbed until he returns to perform 
the ceremonies." 

"Do you pack your people in tubs? And do you bury 
them?" 

" Yes, we both burn and bury our dead," returned Ichiro. 
"Do you take us for savages?" 

" Come, boys, don't quarrel," said the Professor. 

"We are only arguing. Sir," respectfully answered Ichiro. 
"Your sons thin'k it strange that we inter our dead in tubs. I 
consider it much better than packing them in boxes like dried 
fish, as the Chinese do." 

They all laughed at this, and halting at a chaya (restaurant) 
ordered tea and refreshments. 

It was a picturesque spot. A magnificent wisteria, supported 
by a bamboo frame, covered the front of the hut, the thatch of 
which was overgrown with green moss, and the ridge crowned 
with lovely irises. A rooster and hen, perched on the slope, 
uttered uneasy clucks, and two partly-dressed travellers, seated 
on a bench under the wisteria, shouted vociferously for more 
rice. 

A spring of ice-cold water rose from the ground immediately 
in front of the veranda; the overflow rushing off with a cool, 
gurgling sound, and mixing with a stream that flowed near by 
and was crossed by a plank bridge. 

These chaya merely provide food and a temporary resting- 
place for travellers, and are not inns. 

The party watched the scene and saw a woman and child 
come for sahe^ and two coolies arrive and join the men on the 



I02 



YOUNG AMERICANS IN JAPAN. 



bench. Then the Professor paid for their refreshments, and 
they returned by the light of the moon to Nagasaki. 

On reaching home they found a lad amusing the ladies by 
performing the fan-dance. 

He had wooden swords thrust in his belt, in the old fashion, 
and was dressed in a peculiar costume. The American boys 
watched his performance, which was a compromise between a 
dance and a hop, and Fitz said, in his usual outspoken way — * 




THE FAN-DANCE. 



" Our jig-dancers would astonish you. Why don't you put 
some life into 3''our steps?" 

"Oh, he can do the Uzume " (goddess-dance), said the 
boy's mother. " Kihachi, put aside your fans and delight the 
foreign gentlemen." 

The girl who played the samisen, touched the strings rapidly, 
and Kihachi started a caper that shook the room and raised a 
blinding cloud of dust from the mats. He yelled, shouted, 



FAREWELL TO NAGASAKI. IO3 

screamed, leaped, whirled and pounded until he became 
exhausted, when his mother bowed, and said, — 

" Honorable gentlemen from afar, now is the moment 
for your kind appreciation." 

Fitz gave the boy a dollar; and alter the performers had 
departed, said to Ichiro, — 

"Is that how your goddess danced? Jeminy, she must 
have been crazy." 

"Yes; that is a rude representation of the way in which 
Uzume danced before the gods," answered Ichiro. " Our 
legend runs thus: The sun-goddess, Amaterasu, was scared 
by her brother Sosanoo, who played her all manner of tricks. 
She retired to a cave, and left the earth in total darkness. 
The gods assembled; and Uzume, mounting on a round box, 
danced and made them laugh." 

" No wonder," said Johnnie. " We know the story. Guess 
I'll go to bed, as I am very tired." 

The next morning they bade adieu to Nagasaki, and amid 
the sayonara (farewells) of their host, hostess, and servants^ 
started for Kokuro — Sallie on her pony, Mrs. Jewett riding in 
2ijin-7'iki-sha (man-drawn carriage) that had arrived the day 
before from Tokio, and the Professor and boys on foot. 

A number of coolies, laden with baggage, followed the 
party, which travelled slowly, and halted frequently during the 
heat of the day. 

" Now," cried Fitz, " for some jolly adventures." 



I04 YOUNG AMERICANS IN JAPAN. 



CHAPTER VII. 

A PLEASANT JOURNEY. 

The tea and porcelain of Hizen, 

The obi (sill<; girdles) of Chikuzen, 

Are all most excellent. 

When you visit these provinces 

Remember your friends. — Japanese Poem.- 

ON the morning of the last day of August, the travellers 
reached Saga, a large town in the province of Hizen. 

Sallie had tamed Abraham Lincoln, who followed her like 
a dog; Mrs. Jewett was becoming used to the motion of the 
jin-riki-sha^ and the Professor and the boys were, what Fitz 
termed, " as brown as nuts." 

"We will halt here for breakfast," said the head of the 
party, as they reached a street lined with yadoya (inns). "I 
see some nice fish on the stalls, and the place promises to pro- 
vide a good breakfast." 

They entered one of the largest inns, and submitted to 
have their feet laved by the attendants, then, after exhibiting 
their passports to the police, proceeded to a private room, 
ordered food, and, seating themselves on the mats, watched 
the arrivals and departures at an establishment across the 
road. 

It was a lively scene, and the shrill cries of the guests and 
replies of the pert waitresses greatly amused the travellers. 

Presently two coolies, bearing a kago enveloped in a net, 
came along the street and deposited their^ vehicle in front of 
the house. 



I06 YOUNG AMERICANS IN JAPAN. 

Behind them, was the head-man of a village, walking with 
a very important air. 

Their arrival created quite a flutter in the establishment, 
and everybody glanced at them. 

" Hail " cried the landlord. " So you have caught him at 
last, eh? Here, girls, bring the excellent head-man a cup of 
sake and some hot rice — quick! " 

"Why, there is a man inside that net," observed Fitz. 

" Yes," nodded Oto. " He is a great criminal, and has 
killed several persons. That notice on the board, hanging 
from the bearing-pole, says, — ^ Seven-fields — charged with 
many crimes.' " 

While the kago bearers were relacing their sandals, the 
head-man refreshed himself, and described how he had cap- 
tured the prisoner. 

"You need not crow," growled the caged bandit. " I was 
asleep when you pounced on me." 

Everybody appeared glad to see the fellow there, and the 
waitresses derided him, saying, — 

" Serve you right, you wretch; you ought to be tortured. 
You have kept us all in terror. Now you will be handed over 
to the authorities." 

"Yes," said a woman perched on a horse, which was 
secured by fastening its halter to its off leg. " You robbed my 
husband, you rascal. Ah! I am glad to see you in there." 

" Is that the notorious Seven-fields?" asked a lady of a man 
who was scowling at the prisoner. 

" Yes, that is the demon," replied the person addressed, 
pointing at the brigand. " Look at him. Two years ago he 
robbed me of my hard-earned savings. Teh! you scoundrel, 
I would like to give you a blow." 

The prisoner laughed, and holding up ^his hands, which 
were bound with a rope, saucily answered, — 



A PLEASANT JOURNEY. IO7 

*' I would give you a dozen, if I were free. It is brave 
work to insult an honest man who is caged like a fox." 

" Teh — yeh — yeh ! " shouted the guests. 

When the kago was raised, and the bearers were moving 
off toward the police-court, the guests united in hooting the 
prisoner; even an old fish-vender, who was cleaning flounders 
on the sidewalk, joined in the cries, saying, — 

"They ought to kill you on the spot; then we should be 
sure you would not rob any more of us." 

. The boys stepped into the kitchen, where they found the 
landlord and his wife eating breakfast, and chatting with a 
lightly-clad coolie, who was clinging to the door-post and 
idling the story of the thief's capture. 

Behind the host were three pretty waitresses, listening to 
the recital, though they pretended not to be paying any atten- 
tion to it. 

" Killed a thousand people, did you say? " cried the host. 
"Nonsense! " 

The coolie grinned, nodded, and said, — 

" Well, honorable sir; he killed fifty with his own hand, 
and frightened nine hundred and fifty to death. It took a 
country-fellow to capture him. Teh, these new policemen, 
with their foreign uniforms, are no good." 

" Your guests, from afar, require you," said a stout man, 
who sat next to the host. 

" We onl}^ want to learn something about the criminal," 
said Fitz. " He appeared to be a saucy fellow." 

" He lived up in the mountain beyond," said the coolie. 
" I hear you require runners for 3'our jin-riki-sha. Myself 
and brother are very anxious to go to Kokura. Will you 
engage us?" 

The boys found that the men who had brought the vehicle 
from Nagasaki were lame, so they hired the applicants. 



'^W 



1 08 



YOUNG AMERICANS IN JAPAN. 



"What disease is that on your body?" asked Fitz; when 
the fellows stripped for work. 

" Tattooing," replied the younger, as they turned and 
exhibited their backs. "We were formerly grooms in the 
service of Satzuma; now we are willing to do anything for an 
honest living." 




A GOSSIPING COOLIE. 



"You must wear clothes when you are with us," said 
Johnnie. "That decoration may be enough covering for you, 
but will not be sufficient for us." 

The men bowed good-humoredl}', and went off to fetch 
their best clothes; presently reappearing, dressed in neat 
cotton uniforms, marked with the crest of their late lord. 

Johnnie and Fitz returned to their party, whom they 
found enjoying an excellent repast of fried fish, tea, and 
boiled rice. 



A PLEASANT JOURNEY. 



109 



" We've hired two of Barnum's tattooed men to draw you, 
mother," said Johnnie. "I tell you they are muscular fellows,, 
and will spin you along two-ten." 







TATTOOED FETTO (GKOOMS). 



The Professor, who was much interested in the old customs 
of the people, went out into the yard to see the men, who 
were busily employed washing the y^Vz-rz/^z-^/zrt', and had again 
cast aside their garments. Directly they saw him they hastily- 
caught up their clothes* noticing which he bade them have no 



no 



YOUNG AMERICANS IN JAPAN. 



fear, and inquired if they would mind his examining the tattoo- 
ing on their bodies. 

He asked so many questions that one of the coolies whispered 
to the other, — 

" Our new master is a doctor. We shall be able to obtain 
his advice gratis." 

This caused the gentleman to laugh, and he observed, — 
" If you are sick, my young friend, Oto, will attend to you. 
I am not a physician." 

"Then he is a magician," said the other coolie to his 
brother in a low aside. " Mind he does not take our strength 
from us." 

After ascertaining their height and the measurement of 
their limbs and bodies, the Professor told them they need not 
be afraid, that he was neither a magician nor a quack doctor; 
on hearing which they bowed and resumed their work. 

The ladies, feeling somewhat tired, rested while the gentle- 
men of the party went for a ramble about the town. 

Every other house appeared 
to be inhabited by silk-weavers, 
and the clatter of the looms was 
heard on all sides. 

The strangers stopped to see 
a man dyeing obi (ladies' silk 
girdles). He worked in the open 
air, and used the leaves that fell 
from the tree above his head as 
stamps. His only implements 
were a bucket containing dye, 
the leaves, and some sticks, be- 
tween which were stretched the long pieces of white silk. He 
sang as he worked, and appeared to be perfectly happy. 

One district of the town was inhabited by cotton-spinners, 




A GIRDLE DYER. 



A PLEASANT JOURNEY. 



Ill 



and the travellers learned that much of the silk thread used 
for fabrics is only cotton plated or covered with silk. 

They entered a large establishment devoted to the prepara- 
tion of the staple, and found a number of women bowing the 
fibre, which was of good length and fine quality. 




WOMAN BOWING COTTON. 



The apparatus they used was a piece of bent bamboo and 
a strong cord, to which was attached a heav}'' bar of wood, 
forming the frame for a string of gut that was the bow of the 
machine. 

The operator placed the raw cotton on a mat beneath the 
bow, and struck the string with a sort of mallet ; the vibrations 
shaking the cotton into a fine down, and separating it from 
foreign matters and impurities. 

Some of the women were turning rollers, on which the 



112 



YOUNG AMERICANS IN JAPAN. 



bowed fibre was made into batting, and all of them were as 
white as though they had been in a snow-storm. 

The proprietor of the establishment was formerly a daimio 
(lord), but had lost his title in the late political changes. He 
was very polite to his visitors, and showed them all over his 
factory, which a few years ago had been the mansion of another 
noble. 

In the rear-3^ard they saw a man, perched high up on a 
sloping log, industriously sawing the timber with a primitive- 
looking instrument. 

The Japanese do not use 
saw-pits, nor have they yet, 
except in government estab- 
lishments, adopted steam- 
saws. Labor is cheap, and 
the people object to foreign 
machinery. 

"How long will he be cut- 
sAwiNG TIMBER, tlug up that log ? " askcdFitz. 

" Probably a week," said the proprietor. 

"Jeminy!" murmured the lad. "In America we would 
put that in a mill, and rip it into planks in ten minutes." 

The sawyer, who overheard this remark, paused in his occu- 
pation, and rolling his eyes, whispered to a fellow-workman, — 
"Did you hear him? He is making fun of us. We know 
better than to believe such idle stories." 

The proprietor and his visitors smiled, and the former 
remarked, — 

"Even I, who have read of such things, can scarcely credit 
them. I suppose you can do anything by machinery?" 

"No," said the irrepressible Fitz. "You cannot convince 
people by its means." 

"I think you can," slily observed Oto. " If this gentlemaa 




A PLEASANT JOURNEY. 



II 



could see a steam-saw at work, he would be convinced fast 
enough." 

"Got me there," said Fitz, chuckling. 

"What is that tinkling noise? " asked Johnnie. " It sounds 
like sleigh-bells." 

" It proceeds from the Shinto temple near b}^," replied the 
manufacturer. " If you like, I will take you to the shrines. 
I know the bozu very well." 




SHINTO TEMPLES. 



"Are you a Shintoist?" inquired the professor. 

The gentleman answered in the affirmative, when his 
interlocutor asked in what the religion consisted. 

This evidently puzzled him; however, he presently said, — 

"We term it kami no michi (the way of the gods). It 
teaches us to revere the Mikado (emperor), and to worship the 
unseen deities." 



114 YOUNG AMERICANS IN JAPAN. 

"How many Shinto gods are there?" demanded Fitz. 

"About eight millions," was the calm reply. "Each spot 
and village has its own deit}-. We worship them all." 

"We only believe in one God," said Johnnie. 

The merchant smiled pityingly, and led the way through a 
lovely garden into a paved enclosure, in which stood two 
buildings of plain white wood. The roof of the smaller one 
was shingled, and that of the larger edifice thatched with 
grass. 

In front of the former was a torii (pronounced toree) of 
white wood; two vertical posts crossed by a horizontal one 
and a narrow joist. 

Johnnie eyed this structure, then remarked, — 

"It only wants the inscription, ^ Look out for the engine,' 
to be just like the notice-boards on our railway crossings. 
What does it mean?" 

" Torii means bird-rest," said the manufacturer. " The 
original ones were formed of three sticks, put up before the 
Shinto shrines as rests for the birds that were offered, but not 
sacrificed, to the gods." 

Upon the right of the torii was a huge lantern, and a roofed 
cistern filled with holy water, above which white cloths were 
suspended. 

Their guide, who evidently wished to impress his foreign 
companions, advanced to the cistern, and, dipping his fingers 
in the water, touched his eyes and lips. Having done this, he 
ascended the steps of the shrine, and, seizing a piece of strong 
cotton cloth, attached to a bell fastened to the eaves, pulled it 
vigorously, then knelt, clapped his hands thrice, and bowed his 
head. 

" He is praying for us," said Oto. 

"Wh}^ did he clap his hands?" asked ^itz. 

" To announce his presence to the gods," whispered their 



A PLEASANT JOURNEY. II5 

friend. "This is a very silly faith, and no sensible person 
believes in it." 

The worshipper rose, threw.some money on to a white cloth 
inside the shrine, and after pointing to a wooden wand from 
which a number of notched papers were suspended, said in a 
low tone, — 

"That is the gohei (sacred emblem). The gods come 
where it is exhibited." 

"I want to know," murmured Fitz. "I thought it was a 
scarecrow. I've seen it stuck up in the fields." 

" Fitz, be more reverential," said the Professor, in English. 
" Remember that gentleman believes in those things." 

" Well — I don't, papa," answered the boy. 

They passed under two other torii^ one of which was 
decorated with a straw rope, fringed, like the gohei, with 
notched papers (another Shinto emblem). 

" Do you worship those golieif'' demanded John. 

" No," said their guide. " We worship the unseen gods." 

" It does not look like it," muttered the boy. 

The party advanced up a flight of steps at the foot of which 
were two hideous figures. 

"Are those also Shinto emblems?" inquired Johnnie. 

"No, they are Buddhist ones," replied the manufacturer. 
"We often attract outsiders to our faith by using their symbols. 
They are sky-dogs." 

"They are of a very comical breed," said Fitz. "They 
have mouths like hippopotami." 

On the top of the steps was a metal mirror in a frame 
(another Shinto emblem). This, and several large ^<?/ie/, and 
some boards inscribed with a prayer, were all that was to be 
seen in the second temple. 

A straw rope Avas suspended from the eaves of the structure, 
which was, like the first, a mere shed. 



ii6 



YOUNG AMERICANS IN JAPAN. 



The visitors were about to retire, when a bozti, wearing a 
quaintly-formed cap, entered with a drum, followed by a girl, 
dressed in white, who bore a gohei, and carried a cluster of 
bells, fastened together like a child's toy-rattle. 

He squatted and 
watched the vestal, 
who, advancing to 
the mirror, chanted 
something in a qua- 
vering voice, and 
jingled the bells; 
whereupon the bo~ 
zu beat his drum 
vigorously, with 
two thin sticks, and 
howled a response. 
"That is the 
priestess who has 
custody of the 
mirror," whispered 
their guide. " This 
shrine is a copy of 
the one at Ize." 

When the girl 

had retired, the bo- 

zu, whose head was 

not shaven like a Buddhist's, offered the visitors some tiny 

charms, of porcelain, shaped like a torii, remarking, — 

"These will cure any disease." 

"How many do 3^ou take at a time?" demanded Fitz, 
eying the articles suspiciously. "I should say they would be 
•awkward to swallow." 

The man laughed, and quickly answered, — 




SHINTO PRIEST AND PRIESTESS. 



A PLEASANT JOURNEY. II/ 

'^That depends on how many you can afford to buy. 
Though I doubt if they will do you much good." 

" Why not?" asked the boy. 

" You do not believe in them, therefore they would not help 
you, — besides you ought to wear them in your girdle." Then 
he laughed, and said: "How does your honorable nation 
exist without believing in charms?" 

The Professor briefly explained his faith, when the bozu 
scratched his left ear, and murmured, — 

" Yes, yes ! That is all very beautiful, but if I believed it, I 
should lose my means of existence, and my wife and children 
would have to starve. I am not one of those who jump in the 
dark." 

This conversation evidently annoyed their guide, who, turn- 
ing his back on the speaker, said, — 

" Come, honorable sirs, I would like to offer you some very 
nice tea, grown in this province, and show you my garden." 

As they quitted the temple-grounds they saw a bearded man 
and a ruddy-faced woman, watching them intently. 

" Those are Ainos from the Island of Yezo," said the man- 
ufacturer. " They are only animals, anyhow." 

The man referred to wore an enormous hat, and had a rude 
wallet suspended from his neck. The woman's head was bound 
with a towel, and she was nicely dressed in Japanese costume. 

" The Ainos are supposed to be the aborigines of Japan," 
said Oto. " I never saw one before. The men all grow beards 
like foreigners ! " 

" Yes, they are mere animals," repeated the guide. " They 
run wild like tigers. I know all about them, my father visited 
their ken'''' (province). 

" Why do you not wear a beard ? " inquired Fitz. 

"Because — because I — " began the gentleman, glancing 
at Oto. 



*^ 



ii8 



YOUNG AMERICANS IN JAPAN. 




AINOS FROM THE ISLAND OF YEZO. 



** Because you cannot," slily answered the boy, who evi- 
dently resented the others remarks. " Honorable sir, you forget 
that his sacred Majesty, the Mikado, wears one! " 

"Pardon me, I did not remember that," said the other. 
" Here is my house, allow me to have the honor of offering you 
some refreshments." 

He led the way indoors and introduced them to his 
children, who were busily engaged playing battledore and 
shuttlecock. 



i 

I 



A PLEASANT JOURNEY. 



119 




BATTLEDORE AND SHUTTLE. 



The Japanese toy differs from 
ours, the bat being of light wood 
covered with paper, and the shuttle 
of pith and the same material. 

Fitz and Johnnie examined the 
toy, and played a game with the 
youngsters, and when they had 
partaken of their host's hospital- 
it}'', the Professor said, — 

"Boys, we must say adieu and 
return to the inn. It is time for 
us to resume our journey." 

B}^ four o'clock the party was once more e7i route, and 
about five reached the crest of the Hizen range, and saw the 
sunset illuminating the distant hills of Chikuzen. They paused 
in order to enjoy the lovely scene, and Sallie, pointing to a canal 
in the distance, said, — 

" Why is that cut through there? I can see plenty of water 
on the right and left of it." 

"It is_the White-water canal," replied one of the coolies. 
That river on the right is full of rapids. It is the outlet of the 
Chikugo." 

After admiring the beautiful tints on the hills, they descend- 
ed into the valley of Yakuna, a wild region sparsely clothed 
with trees. 

The road was hewn through the living rock, and was cut in 
steps, which rnade the last part of the day's journey very 
tedious. 

On the side of one pass they saw a slab, inscribed with the 
Buddhist prayer. 

" Three years ago, a blind shampooer was robbed and mur- 
dered there," said one of the coolies. 

"Are your unfortunates often thus ill-treated," asked Fitz. 



I20 YOUNG AMERICANS IN JAPAN. 

^"^ Hai^'' was the laughing response. "Those fellows always 
have plenty of money in their pouches. The one who said his 
final Namu there, had over a thousand dollars about him. He 
was, like most of his kind, a money-lender, and had, in his day, 
taken the last sen from many an honest man. I hate money- 
lenders; I have had one on my back for ten years." 

"Why did you get in his debt?" demanded Johnnie. 

"I used to drink too much sake,'' sighed the coolie. "Ah! 
I have been very foolish. Sake is a very bad thing. I sup- 
pose your honorable countrymen are all temperate?" 

" I'm afraid not," said Fitz. 

Just before dusk they came to an old tree enclosed with a 
railing. The trunk bristled with nails to which hung fragments 
of paper and rags. 

In front of the tree was a Shinto shrine and a Buddhist torii, 
the latter being painted a dull red. A curious mixture of the 
symbols of the rival faiths of the people. 

The tattooed runners, who dragged Mrs. Jewett's jin-riki~ 
ska, and the coolies who bore the baggage, halted and entering 
the enclosure, rubbed their hands on the bark of the tree, then 
applied them to various parts of their bodies. 

The travellers watched them in amazement, and Fitz 
said, "Why do you do that?" 

" This is a sacred tree," said one of the men. " We always 
give it a trial, so if we are not cured it is no fault of ours." 

Then he laughed and said to his companions: "Come, 
comrades, that rub will enable us to reach the inn of the 
^ Seven Beautiful Scenes.' " 

"One moment," said the amused boy; "why are those nails 
driven all over the trunk of the tree ? " 

"Ask your honorable friend there," answered the man. 
" He can tell you better than I. He use4 to believe in such 
things." 



A PLEASANT JOURNEY. 



121 



" There is a robber aiming a bow and arrow at me. 



" I am sure I never did," muttered Otto. 

As they resumed their journey he said,— ' 

" These nails were driven in the tree by ignorant persons 
who desired to be revenged on their enemies. Your ancestors 
used to do something of the kind." 

" Yes, but we do not," quickly returned Fitz. 

" No," quietly retorted Oto. " When your bad people take 
a dislike to any one they shoot them down; ours merely make 
a paper figure of the object of their hatred and nail it to a tree. 
The act relieves their feelings, and does not hurt their would-be 
victim." 

^^ HaiP'' screamed Sallie, pointing to a strange object on the 
roadside. 
Hai!" 

The coolies stopped, and laugh- 
ingly demolished the "brigand," 
which proved to be a scarecrow, 
made of an old mino (straw-coat), 
a tattered bamboo hat, and three 
sticks. 

"Oh, how it scared me!" said 
Sallie. " The girls at the inn told 
us such dreadful stories about rob- 
bers. I thought that was one." 

It soon became too dark to make 
out the way, so they halted at the door of a farm-house and 
asked to be accommodated for the night. 

The farmer was very hospitable, and gave them the best his 
house afforded. 

He ordered his wife and daughter to dress in their holiday 
costumes, and, donning his. silken suit, waited on the visitors. 

When they had ended their supper he took some of the 
remains on a small tray, and, squatting in a corner, ate, 




A PRIMITIVE SCARECROW. 



122 



YOUNG AMERICANS IN JAPAN. 



smoked, drank, and plied his guests with questions ; his fam- 
ily listening to the replies with unmoved faces, evidently 
deeming it would not be good manners to join in the con- 
versation. 

He wanted to know almost as badly as Fitz, and had his 
guests not yawned repeatedly behind their fans, would have 
talked all night. 




THE FARMER AND HIS FAMILY. 



Finally, he bade his wife put up the screens, and when the 
room was divided into four compartments, retired to the 
smallest with his silent companions. 

None of the party enjoyed much sleep, as the mats on 
the floor swarmed with bloodthirsty insects: added to which 
annoyance, a rattling noise proceeded from a field at the 
back of the house. When the Jewetts rose they discovered 
that the sound came from pieces of har<^ wood strung with 
short sticks of bamboo. These were suspended from strings, 



A PLEASANT JOURNEY. 



123 




A BIRD-RATTLER. 



moved by the breeze, which rattled them like old windows 
in a gale, and effectually scared the birds off the newly sown 
ground. 

While the ladies were making 
theirtoilets, the gentlemen watched 
a wood-cutter and a charcoal- 
vender, who were discussing the 
advent of foreigners in the dis- 
trict. The wood-cutter leaned 
on an enormous axe, and talked 
in a loud voice, and his com- 
panion, who was seated on the 
ground, resting against his char- 
coal-baskets, smoked, and replied in a very comical treble. 

"Yes, they are strange people," shouted the wood-cutter 
who did not know the farmer's guests were out and about. " I 
am waiting to see them. The 
time I shall lose will be well 
spent. I hear that the man and 
boys have long hair on their 
heads, like monkeys, and that 
the elder of the ladies has never 
dyed her teeth. They are only 
half- civilized. What do you 
think they are doing in our hon- 
orable country? " 

The charcoal-seller, who knew the foreigners were listen- 
ing, rolled his eyes comically and replied, — 

" I hear they have come to buy timber." 

" That is good news," said the woodman. " I ought to 
have spoken more respectfully of them." 

"Hai!" shouted Fitz; "won't you come and speak to us 
monkeys ? " 




CHARCOAL-SELLER AND WOOD-CUTTER. 



124 YOUNG AMERICANS IN JAPAN. 

The man turned, advanced, knelt and bowed respectfully, 
then said, — 

"A thousand pardons for my rudeness. Honorable sirs, 
I am only an ignorant wood-cutter. My name is Koshima. 
I can supply you with timber at a reasonable price." 

" My good friend, we are merely travelling for pleasure," 
smilingly observed the Professor. " We are not here to buy 
logs." 

The disappointed man bowed, and returned to the laughing 
charcoal-vender, whom he thus addressed: 

"Matsu-moto, I have known you many years, and did not 
think 3^ou would thus shame my face before those honorable 
gentlemen from afar. Hai! you may laugh; but I feel like 
a toad that has attempted to swallow a hornet." 

The spectators imagined he would strike the joker; how- 
ever, he merely scowled at him, shouldered his axe, and 
walked off. Japanese peasants seldom come to blows, and 
are, as a body, quiet, good-tempered people. 

Although the farm-yard was full of chickens, the mistress 
of the house declined to kill any of them, saying, — 

" Honorable sirs, you are v^^elcome to what my house 
affords, but my religion forbids me to take life. How should 
I be able to look those good creatures in the face after I had 
murdered one of their number? " 

. When the Professor asked how much there was to pay, the 
farmer said, — 

"Nothing. I do not keep an inn. May you live long, 
enjoy good health, and be spared to return to your honor- 
able parents. I wish you a pleasant journey." 

Mrs. Jewett gave their hostess some needles, and Sallie 
added a pair of American scissors which the daughter had 
greatly admired. Then the travellers said sayojiara, and 
resumed their journey. ^ 



A PLEASANT JOURNEY. 



12 



The heat was intense; spite of which, the men who dragged 
the jin-riki-sha ran it up the hills, and raced Sallie's pony on 
the level ground; sometimes returning a mile or two, in order 
to keep company with the pedestrians. 

The fourth day after leaving the farm, they arrived at Ko- 
kura, in the province of Hizen, which they reached about 
sunset. When they had eaten supper, and exhibited their 




BLESSING THE WATER. 



passports to the police, who called to know their names, &c., 
they went out on the ramparts to witness a Shinto ceremony, 
which Oto termed "Blessing the Water." 

Three bozu, dressed in white, squatted on a mat behind a 
low table, festooned with strips of notched paper, before them 
being a frame containing four small gohei. 

Four bamboos, bearing lanterns, were erected at regular 



126 YOUNG AMERICANS IN JAPAN. 

distances, and the space was enclosed with cleft sticks, in 
€ach of which was a folded paper. 

On the right was a stone lantern that gave out a red light, 
and on each side were platforms occupied by well-dressed 
spectators, and by tea, cake, and sak^ sellers, who drove a 
brisk trade. 

Persons using the seats paid extra, and put on more airs 
than those who squatted on the bare ground. 

The sea broke with a loud roar on the beach below, chil- 
dren laughed and screamed, the women and men chattered and 
smoked, amid which din the bozu calmly chanted, rang their 
bells, and waved their goheij pausing every now and then 
while their assistants collected the offerings of the faithful. 

After the moon had risen, the bozic prostrated themselves, 
then rose, advanced to the edge of the ramparts, and threw 
hundreds of strips of paper into the water. That done, they 
formed in procession and marched homeward, the people fol- 
lowing in a mob and shouting vociferously. 

"What does it all mean?" asked Fitz. 

" Nothing," replied Oto. " It is a mere ceremony, the 
origin of which has long ago been forgotten." 

"Oto," said Johnnie, "you say no sensible Japanese be- 
lieves in Buddhism or Shintoism. Now, I have seen a great 
many of your countrymen and women, but have only met a few 
like yourself." 

The boy thought for a moment, and quietly replied, — 

" Wait until you get to Tokio. Out of a thousand Ameri- 
cans how many are really sensible persons, like your folks? I 
met with people in your country who believed in worse non- 
sense than Buddhism or Shintoism." 

" That is true," said Johnnie. "There are the Mormons, 
for instance. Well, your countrymen and women are real 
kind, gentle people, and have treated us first-rate." 



A PLEASANT JOURNEY. 



127 



Early the next morning they went on the ramparts ' for a 
walk, and beheld, across the straits, the town of Shimonoseki. 

" I have friends over there," said Oto. " It is the place 
that, in 1863, was bombarded by the allied forces; for which 
little attention we had to pay your country seven hundred and 
eighty-five thousand dollars." 

"What?" cried the boys. "You had to pay us for killing 
your people. Why, that's absurd." 




SHIMONOSEKI FROM THE HEIGHTS OF KOKURA. 

"So we have always thought," was the quiet response. 
" The lord of Magato was ordered by the authorities to prevent 
foreign ships from anchoring off Shimonoseki. Although both 
your honorable nation, the English, French and Dutch knew of 
this, they persisted in disregarding the notification ; consequently 
whenever their ships approached the batteries of Shimonoseki 
they were fired at, the first discharges always being blank ones. 
Several engagements occurred between our batteries and ships 
and the foreign vessels of war, and, finally, the allied fleet, — 




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Ill I I l| 

II I, I I 

III i|yfli'ii|,i|i||,;,iii'|iii' I 

I I '' I uiiH' III' 

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I I M ' ' I 

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I 

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'l''l|l'l 'l' 11,(1 'I ' 

l|| l| ' I ' I I'll I 

III' II ' I I' I 



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III ,,l ' ') I 'I 



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'ii I 



130 YOUNG AMERICANS IN JAPAN. 

consisting of one American vessel, hired for the occasion and 
armed with one gun, nine British, four Dutch and three French 
vessels of wsly, — assembled oft' Shimonoseki, and began to 
bombard the batteries and town." 

" I remember seeing a picture of the smoking ruins in a 
book of 3^ours," said Sallie. "When I asked you what it was 
you tore it up." 

"Yes," gravely answered Oto. "I had kept it to remind 
me of the desolation wrought by the allies, of our dead patriots, 
ruined homes and shattered forts. I destroyed it in order to 
banish the aftair from m}' mind." 

"And do you mean to say, sir," said Johnnie to his father, 
"that after taking such a revenge we made the Japanese pay 
for defending themselves? " 

"Yes, to our shame, that is true," said the Professor. "We 
joined the English, French and Dutch in a disgraceful act, 
worthy of the dark ages, and extorted three millions of dollars 
from a nation in the throes of a civil war, sharing the plunder 
equally with our allies. The money we thus wrung from 
Japan still lies in our national treasury, and, with the interest, 
amounts to over a million of dollars." 

" Papa," said Fitz, " are 3^ou sure somebody has not appro- 
priated it? If it is still there, it ought to be returned." 

" It is safe enough," smilingly replied the Professor. 
" Congress alone has the power to restore it to its lawful 
owners." 

" We have never asked for it," said Oto. "We paid what 
England, America, France and Holland demanded in order to 
avoid more trouble, but had our own opinion about the matter." 
. " Congress ought to see to that," said Sallie, who was in- 
tensely interested in the narration. 

"You just wait until I am a member,'\said Fitz; "I'll fix 
that Shimonoseki matter, Oto." 



A PLEASANT JOURNEY. 



1^1 



" I guess we shall have to wait as long," was the significant 
reply. 

They watched the ships moving through the Strait. Then, 
after paying their coolies and visiting the principal places in 
Kokura, hired a passage-boat to convey them and their effects 
to the opposite shore. 




A PASSENGER-BOAT. 

The craft was sculled by six men, who jointly owned her, 
and was as clean as a new pin. In the centre was a commo- 
dious cabin, and in the bow a wooden anchor. All the wood- 
work was unpainted, and not a nail was used in her construction, 
every part being either pegged or dovetailed together. 

The voyagers embarked and, when the jin-7'iki-ska, Sallie's 
pony, and the baggage, had been taken on board, were swiftly 
rowed over the blue water toward the ancient port of Shimon-' 
oseki, whose batteries gleamed white in the distance. 



I'll 



YOUNG AMERICANS IN JAPAN. 



The waves lapped idly against the bows, and the sea-birds, 
sailing overhead, uttered shrill cries, as though welcoming the 
young Americans to Hondo, the main island of the Japanese 
Empire. 

^^ Sallie," said Mrs. Jewett, glancing at the thoughtful face 
of her daughter, " of what are you thinking? " 

" I know," cried Fitz. " She is thinking what a jolly long 
while it is since we had a square meal." 

Sallie bit her lips, for her brother had guessed the truth. 

"Here comes a fune (junk)," shouted Johnnie, pointing 
ahead. "Is she not a regular Noah's ark?" 

The travellers peeped out of the cabin-windows^ And saw 
a strange-looking craft bearing down upon them. 




JAPANESE JUNfc. 



OTO'S MANLY AVOWAL. 13: 



CHAPTER VIII. 



OTO S MANLY AVOWAL. 

His mother wept and prayed, 
His friends frowned upon him, 
But he was firm, and said : 
" I cannot pretend to believe 
What I know is false and foolish." 

Japanese History of a Convert. 



^ 



THE funt> (junk), like the passenger-boat, was built of un- 
painted (vood, and was a good specimen of the old style 
craft of Japat:. Its massive mast was composed of pieces of 
timber dovetailed and pegged together, and its bow was deco- 
rated with an enormous tassel of fibre. This, Oto said, was 
intended for a fender, to prevent the vessel from damaging 
another in a collision. It had a gigantic rudder-post, a strong 
rudder, and a large, square sail, made of stout cotton cloth. 

On nearing the boat, the fune tacked and sailed off at an 
angle; the crew shouting at the rowers of the passenger-craft, 
and pointing to a fleet of foreign-built vessels anchored before 
the town. 

"They are calling our attention to the ships of the Imperial 
navy," said Oto proudly. " We have, in proportion to our 
population, a larger army and navy than the United States." 

" You require it," said Fitz. " England and Russia would 
both like to annex you, and, if you had no war establishment, 
China would hold you in contempt. We Americans are so 
powerful that no nation dare molest us, so we do not require a 
large army and navy." 



134 YOUNG AMERICANS IN JAPAN. 

" China! " indignantly retorted Oto. "Why, we could whip 
her any day! When she was unable to put down the pirates 
in Formosa we organized an expedition and wiped them out. 
China! We do not fear her any more than you do Great 
Britain." 

" Good boy," laughingly observed the Professor. " I like to 
hear any one defend his country." 

The fleet, which consisted of ten vessels, presented a very 
warlike appearance, and was a credit to its officers, all of 
whom were Japanese. 

A number of small steamers, used in the coasting-trade, 
were lying off the town, and inshore were some trading crafts 
of the old build and rafts of timber. The place had a desolate 
air, as though business had departed from it, and there was 
little of the noise and bustle they had heard on the wharves of 
Kokura. 

The travellers disembarked, and when the pony, jin-riki' 
ska and luggage were landed, and the Professor satisfied the 
police that they were not dangerous characters or traders, he 
said, — 

" Now, Oto, where shall we go ? Is there a good hotel in 
the town?" 

"You had better stay here in the Custom House while I 
visit my friends," he replied. 

"Can't we accompany you?" urged Johnnie. 

Oto shook his head. 

"You need not be ashamed if they are poor," said the irre- 
pressible Fitz. "We have no false pride about us." 

Oto chuckled, and again shook his head. 

"Come," cried Johnnie, "I am going with you, anyhow." 

"I believe his pretty cousin, O-Kiku, lives here," said 
Sallie. "May I go with you, boys?" \ 

This speech made Oto laugh, and he replied, — 



OTO'S MANLY AVOWAL. I 35 

"Cousin Kiku lives in Nikko. I will tell you the truf 
My friends here are my cousin and uncle, who are Buddhi 
bozu. If you go with me, boys, you must not ridicule wh; 
you see. They believe in Buddha." 

" What?" said Fitz. "You have relatives who are Buddhist 
bozuV 

"Why not?" queried the boy. "You have a relation who 
is a Catholic priest, and another who is a Baptist minister." 

Sallie laughed merrily, and Johnnie said, — 

" You are right, Oto. We will promise to keep our opinions 
to ourselves. I am afraid we have let our tongues run rather 
freel}^ You always expressed so much contempt for Buddhism 
that we have said just what we thought about it." 

"You know I do not believe in it," he quietly replied. 
" What I am afraid of is Fitz saying something that will hurt 
my relatives' feelings. Uncle is an aged man, and has always 
been very good to me." 

"Don't you worry," said the bo}'. "I'll treat the inkiyo 
(retired old gentleman) respectfully. "__, 

The friends entered a boat, and were rowed to a landing- 
place about a mile from the Custom House. 

" That is the entrance to the temple of which my uncle is 
Sojo," said Oto, pointing to a torii which stood inside a railing 
on a neatl3'-kept wharf. " Those sky-dogs came from China, 
and, with the stone lanterns, were gifts from the late lord of the 
province." 

" Why has that torii a centre-piece between the two hori- 
zontal ones?" 

" I do not know," answered Oto. " You only see it on 
Buddhist toj'ii. I believe it is merely to strengthen the struc- 
ture." 

They ascended the steps, and found themselves on a broad 
plateau, above which was a second to7'ii and two flights of 



136 



YOUNG AMERICANS IN JAPAN. 



steps; one steep and straight, and the other winding in and out 
on the hillside. 

On their right was a spring of mineral water, and a shrine 
covered with straw shoes left by persons who had been cured 
by drinking the nauseous liquid, which smelt strongly of sulphur. 

Near by was a shed devoted to the sale of charms, sandals, 
and sake (rice wine). 




THE LONG FLIGHT OF STEPS. 

^^Jeminy!" grumbled Fitz. "Why don't they have an in- 
clined tramway, the same as at Niagara Falls. Must we climb 
all those steps ? " 

" Oh, that is only a short flight," laughingly answered Oto. 
" At Kamakoura they have one twice as high. This is nicely 
shaded, and pilgrims often ascend and descend it a hundred 

times." ^ 

" They must be lunatics," growled Fitz. 



130 YOUNG AMERICANS IN JAPAN. 

After many pauses they reached the top step, and saw on 
e level ground before them a bell-tower and temple. 

"Why, that tower is the brother of the one at Nagasaki," 
id Johnnie. 

"Yes, the Nagasaki tower and monument were copied from 
this one." 

"I would like a cup of water," grumbled Johnnie, who was 
perspiring freely. " My ! is not the sun hot ? " 

To the left was a handsome lantern of stone, which Oto said 
was erected to one of the lords of Nagato who had renounced 
his title and died a bozu. Behind this were three stone cisterns 
containing holy-water. 

The place was neatly paved with marble, and contained 
many beautiful lanterns of bronze and granite, erected to the 
memory of nobles who had long been forgotten by the people. 

The main temple had a high-pitched roof, the ridge-board 
of which bore the mon (crest) of three great lords. A Shinto 
bell hung from the eaves of the porch, and a representation of a 
mirror was carved on the woodwork of the eaves. 

"How quiet the place is!" said Johnnie. "It really feels 
like a sacred spot. Even the doves up there among the 
carvings of the roof are silent." 

" It is too precious hot for them to be cooing," grumbled 
Fitz. " Say, Oto, in which building does your uncle live." 

"Not in this temple," he slily answered. 

They put off their shoes and entered the edifice, when they 
were accosted by a young bozu, who said to Oto, in excellent 
English, — 

" Hello! old man, where did you spring from? " 

This sounded so comical from the lips of a shaven-headed 
bozu that Johnnie exclaimed, — 

"Where did you learn to speak our language?" 

" In America," replied the bozu, who was shaking hands 



OTO'S MANLY AVOWAL. I 39 

with their companion. " I suppose you are the Mr. Jewetts of 
whom I have often heard?" 

"This is my cousin Ikeda," said Oto, introducing his 
friends. "He is the nephew of my uncle Matsuo." 

" Welcome to our temple," said the delighted bozu. " I 
resided some years in the States. How are things there ? Is 
the election decided? You see I live apart from the world, 
and seldom receive news from home." 

" Home ! " echoed the Jewetts. 

"Well, I meant the States," was the laughing response. 
" Come and have some tea and cakes. I am real glad to see 
you." 

They quitted the temple and entered a courtyard, in which 
some bozu were taking exercise. 

"Won't the bishop be astonished to see you? " remarked 
Ikeda, as he led the way past the silent group. 

"Bishop?" queried John. 

"Yes, bishop is the English equivalent for Sojo," was the 
merry answer. " Oto is a great favarite of our uncle. I am sure 
you will like our relative; he is a very noble and venerable 
man. He sent me to the States, and has done everything for 
me. This is my room." 

He showed them into a small cell. There was no furniture 
on the bare floor; the only articles in the apartment being a 
lamp, a case of books and a few quilts. 

Ikeda, who, spite of his shaven head was quite good-looking, 
sent for some refreshments, and lighting his pipe, rattled on in 
English, inquiring about old friends in the States, and imparting 
family news to Oto, who, spite of his cousin's cordial welcome, 
appeared dull and uncomfortable. 

When the guests had partaken of the refreshments, Ikeda 
said, — 

" Now, I will go to the bishop. He usually walks in the 



140 



YOUNG AMERICANS IN JAPAN. 



p-rounds about this hour. I am sure he can tell you of a good 

. i;ice to lodge, he knows everybody." 

As soon as the bozu had retired, Fitz said to Oto, — 
"Why are you so glum. Were those steps too much for 

you." 

"I — I— ^ never thought of this," murmured their friend. 

He w\\\ of course expect I am as I w^as when I quitted him for 

Tokio." 




BOZU TAKING EXERCISE. 



"Who — what — how?" coolly demanded Fitz. "What 
are you muttering about? " 

Oto shook his head, and nervously rubbed his hands one 
over the other, then said in a low tone, as though fearing 
Ikeda was listening, — 

" I never gave it a thought until I saw my cousin." 

"Are you going crazy?" inquired Fitz. 



OTO S MANLY AVOWAL. HI 

" What is the matter ? " asked Johnnie. 

" Boys," whispered the perplexed youth, " what am I to 
do? When I last saw my uncle I was a Buddhist, — now — " 

" Won't he give you pepper," said Fitz. " Of course you 
will not pretend to believe that superstitious nonsense, just to 
please him? " 

"I wish I were a thousand miles away," moaned Oto. '*I 
shall not say I believe in Buddhism, yet, — I hate to grieve my 
uncle." 

"Does he believe in it?" asked Johnnie. 

"Most assuredly he does," said their friend. "Well, — I 
shall tell the truth." 

" That is right," said Johnnie. " Here comes Ikeda." 

"The bishop is anxious to see you," said the young bozu^ 
" He is in the garden. Come with me." 

They passed through a corridor, in which sat three young 
bozu eating their midday meal of plain boiled rice. 

"We nfever see tenderloin steak here," said Ikeda. "At 
first, after I returned from the States, I felt a craving for animal 
food, but now I have conquered the desire. You will soon do 
the same, cousin Oto." 

The latter murmured something and bit his lips. He knew 
that his uncle's first question would be whether he had remained 
true to the teachings of his youth. 

"Do you live entirely on rice and vegetables?" asked 
Johnnie of Ikeda. "Are you never permitted to eat eggs or 
fish?" 

" Certainly not," gravely answered the young bozu. "When 
I was in America I had a dispensation to eat anything; how- 
ever, on my return, I resumed the correct way of living. I 
see Oto has not converted you to our faith." 

"Not by a large majority," said Fitz. "I thought no. 
sensible Japanese believed in Buddhism." 



142 



YOUNG AMERICANS IN JAPAN. 



Oto frowned at him, but he might as well have made a 
r-'-nal to the sun to cease shining. 

Ikeda laughed good-humoredly, and replied,— 

"Every one has his own belief. Ours forbids us to eat 
anything that has lived. Hush, there is the bishop." 

They halted and beheld, at a little distance from them, an 
aged man, whose wrinkled face, eyebrows and head were 
shaven, and were of a uniform waxen yellow tint. 




7 ' 

BOZU AT DINNER. 

In his right hand he carried a fan; in his left, which was 
'partly concealed by the sleeve of his white robe, was a rosary 
of crystal beads; and over his costume was a circular stole of 
silk, embroidered with the Buddhist prayer. His feet were 
encased in cotton tabi (socks), and he wore broad clogs of 
white wood. 

Although his features were heavy, and somewhat coarse in 
outline, he had a dignified, benevolent look, and impressed the 
boys very favorably. 



OTO S MANLY AVOWAL. 



143 



Oto trembled when he saw his relation, and, falling upon 
his hands and knees, bowed his head to the ground. 

Ikeda also prostrated himself, but Johnnie and Fitz remai 
standing, and merely 
bowed politely. 

"Welcome to 
Shimonoseki," said 
the old man, in a 
pleasant tone. "I 
trust 3^our honorable 
parents are in the 
enjoyment of good 
health." 

Fitz advancedj 
extended his hand, 
and said, — 

"They are quite 
well, thank you, 
Bishop ! How are 
you?" 

The Sojo smiled, 
and, taking his hand, 
replied, — 

" I thank you for 
your kind inquiry. 
So you have brought 
back my nephew. 
We are much in- 
debted to you for all 
your goodness to 
him." 

He then shook 
hands with Fitz and 



X-.. 




OTO'S UNCLE. 



144 YOUNG AMERICANS IN JAPAN. 

Johnnie, after which he turned to Oto, who still kept his head 
on the ground, and said, — 

"My son, I hope you. have not lost faith in Buddha." 

Oto did not reply. 

"I hear," continued the venerable man, "that nearly all our 
students who go abroad return with changed hearts. I trust 
you have not forgotten the doctrines of our holy faith." 

Poor Oto! he feared he was about to separate himself from 
his family, — to become an object of detestation to them. He 
was too noble to lie, so, rising, he bowed in foreign fashion,, 
and, facing his amazed relative, said, — 

" Honorable uncle, since I last beheld your face I have 
learned many things. I no longer believe In the teachings of 
m}^ childhood." 

Instead of being angry, the Sojo exclaimed, — 

"Alas! alas! I feared it was so, I will pray that you may 
be brought to see the error of your waj^^s and be restored to 
reason. Your mother will indeed feel grieved when she hears 
this bad news." 

He turned away, and walked slowly toward his cell, sobbing: 
as he went. 

When his uncle was out of sight, Ikeda rose and said, — 

" Oto, you are a true man ! I believe just as you do, but 
have not dared to own it?" 

The Sojo sent for them after a little while, and, without 
referring to his nephew's change of belief, inquired if he 
could do anything for him or his friends. 

Oto answered that he was anxious to find accommodations for 
his party; on hearing which the Sojo wrote a note, and said, — 

"Take this to Tamai Wage, on Saltfish Street; he will give 
you good rooms. There is no inn in the city fit to be the abode 
of the American ladies. Come and se^ me before you leave,, 
and mind you think over what I have said." 



OTO'S MANLY AVOWAL. 



145 



He ordered refreshments to be brought, and chatted pleas- 
antly with the Americans, who took a great liking to him. 

" Excuse me," said Fitz, pointing to a kakemono (hangii 
picture) on the wall. " Why do you have the portrait of 
warrior in your room?" 

The Sojo smiled, and 
gently replied, — 

" That represents Kato 
Kiyomasa, who was a great 
general and a holy man. I 
thought all the world had 
heard of him." 

The boy surveyed the 
painting, which depicted 
the bearded warrior in-full 
armor, seated on his camp- 
stool; behind him being a 
banner inscribed with the 
prayer, — 

^^Nam u A m ida ButsuP 

When Fitz had ex- 
amined every detail of the 
costume, he turned to the 
venerable man, who was 
regarding him out of the 
corners of his eyes, and 
coolly said, — 

■^Oh! that is Kato, is it? Hum! He was the individual 
who killed so many Christians, was he not?" adding, in a 
musing tone, "I don't like the cut of his Ulster." 

" He is now a saint," said the Sojo. 

He then dismissed them, and they quitted the temple 
grounds. 




KATO KIYOMASA. 



146 YOUNG AMERICANS IN JAPAN. ^ 

On reaching their boat, Oto said, — 

" I am glad that interview is over. My worst trial will be 
with my mother. I have never referred to this matter in my 
letters, and fear she will be greatly grieved." 

"Cheer up, old fellow," said Johnnie. "You must en- 
lighten her. She is a sensible lady, and will listen to the truth 
from you. Anyhow, she'll forgive you — mothers always do." 

"I hope so," said Oto with a sigh. "I think it better to 
say I do not believe in Buddhism than to do like my cousin 
Ikeda." 

" Yes," said Fitz, " it is always best to speak the truth." 

When the Professor heard of what had occurred, he said, — 

" Oto, you behaved like a man. A person who pretends to 
believe what he knows in his heart is false, is beneath con- 
tempt. As to your parents, I am sure they will forgive you." 

"My father will," quietly answered the noble fellow. " He 
has not much respecl for Buddhism, but my honored mother 
has every faith in its teachings, and will, I am afraid, be terribly 
pained on discovering that I have none. My uncle is sure to 
write her all about it." 

They comforted him, and, after having engaged runners for 
XhQ Jin-riki-sha, proceeded to Saltfish Street. 

Mr. Tamai, a very pleasant gentleman, who had lost his 
fortune by the revolution, showed them a large room, which, 
he said, could be divided by screens into four apartments. 

" How much is the rent per day?" inquired the Professor. 

"Will 3. yen (dollar) be considered exorbitant?" he asked. 
" I will, for that sum, furnish you with any number of screens 
and with quilts for your beds. The ladies can have the use of 
our kitchen, and I will not charge you extra for fuel." 

The bargain was soon closed, and the party and their be- 
longings installed in their new abode. \ 

Sallie and the boys went out marketing, and contrived to 



OTO S MANLY AVOWAL. 



147 



secure a couple of chickens, some kidney potatoes, dried beans, 
salt and fresh fish, a squash, and a basket of lily-roots, \vJ . 
Oto said were very good to eat. 

Upon their return they found the Professor and Mrs. Jew^tt 
in the kitchen, a dark apartment at the rear of the house. 

The cooking apparatus consisted of a box, containing a 
huge earthen bowl partly filled with live charcoal. 

" We have to keep fanning the 
coals with this," said the Professor, 
exhibiting a fan made of oiled 
paper. " I don't believe we shall 
ever raise enough heat to broil 
those chickens." 

" Let me show 3'ou," said Oto, 
squatting near the box, and taking 
the fan from his friend. "There 
is a knack in lighting these fires." 

He fluttered the article in a 
peculiar manner, which soon made 
the coal glow, and within ten mmutes the mass was red hot. 

Fitz and Johnnie killed and dressed the birds, and Mrs. 
Jewett superintended the cooking, the result being what her 
sons termed "a square meal." 

To tell the truth, living in the Japanese style had proved 
rather unsatisfactory, and all of the party were glad enough to 
return to American cookery. 

The next morning they had fish-balls and pork-and-beans 
for breakfast, after which they started to see the sights of 
Shimonoseki. 

" Everybody appears to be in holiday attire," said Sallie. 

"Yes," answered Oto. "This is a fnatsuri (festival), and 
I hear there is to be a grand procession in honor of a local 
deity." 




JAPANESE COOK S FAN. 



148 YOUNG AMERICANS IN JAPAN. 

"Do you want to buy tickets for good seats?" inquired a 
msLn, who carried a long string of bamboo tallies on his arm. 
" I can furnish you with places in a beautiful spot on the main 
street. Only ten sen each." 

" So you have ticket-speculators in Japan," whispered Sallie. 

'* Oh, yes! We have most of the modern improvements," 
was Oto's ready rejoinder. " Shall I secure places?" 

" If you please," answered the Professor. " We want to see 
all the sights." 

Oto purchased tickets of admission to a shop close by, and 
in a few moments had his party seated. 

On the other side of the road was a two-storied building 
crowded with sight-seers, and, on the corner of the street, a 
recess in which stood a large tub of water, surmounted by a 
pyramid of fire-buckets.* 

" That is one of our provisions against conflagrations," said 
Oto. " There is a similar arrangement in every street." 

" Better have a fire-engine," remarked Fitz. " I don't call 
that thing a modern improvement." 

On their left was a street, the houses of which were cur- 
tained with colored cotton drapery and filled with people, who 
smoked continually and chattered like magpies. 

It was noon before the procession came in sight, and the 
spectators were growing weary of waiting. 

First came a body of men dressed in quaint costumes. Oto 
said they were members of the various guilds, who had united 
to pay the expenses of the festival. 

Following these were persons carrying spears and flags, 
and companies of men belonging to various religious associa- 
tions. 

The next feature of the affair was a clumsy, two-wheeled 
cart, surmounted by a draped framework, on which was a 
mound supporting three gigantic figures and a clump of fir- 



OTO S MANLY AVOWAL. 



149 



trees. Behind this group sat men beating drums and clashing 

cymbals. 

"Whom does that bearded figure represent?" asked ' 
"That is the god Takenouchi," returned Oto. " He is very 

popular in this part of the country. 

The cart was drawn by two water-buffaloes, assisted by 

volunteers, who, from time to time, quitted the ranks of the 




FESTIVAL IN HONOR OF TAKENOUCHI. 



spectators and seized the drag-ropes. They yelled and shouted 
like sailors heaving up an anchor, and sometimes, in their 
eagerness, dragged both cart and buffaloes. 

The managers of the procession wore hempen wings over 
their dresses, and were very haughty and self-important. 

" Come," said Oto, after the cart had passed. " I know a 
place near here where we can get delicious fish-sausages and 
ise ea Will you not try some?" 



150 YOUNG AMERICANS IN JAPAN. 



" I am willing," said Fitz. 



'^ So am I," said Sallie. " I am both hungry and thirsty." 

They quitted the shop, and followed him to a street lined with 
restaurants devoted to the sale of the luxuries he had mentioned. 

" This is a celebrated house," he remarked, motioning them 
to enter a neatly-kept establishment, bearing the sign of " The 
Royal Carp." " I have eaten many a meal here." 

They squatted on the matted floor, and watched the cooks 
mincing fish with large knives. 

On the other side of the road was a rival concern, the pro- 
prietor of which was evidently annoyed at not having received 
the foreigners as customers. He stood in the front of his store 
and shouted, — 

" This is the only place in the street where you can obtain 
genuine Yezo whale-flesh sausage. This is the original Royal 
Carp — all others are base imitations." 

" Yeh," shouted their host, regarding him angrily. " Cease 
making that ugly noise, or you will lose the few patrons who 
are foolish enough to put up with your inferior wares. You 
know your Yezo whale-flesh is nothing but Yedo-bay shark." 

" I only serve our honorable countrymen," derisively re- 
turned the other. " I don't keep a house of entertainment for 
Chinese." 

Their altercation was cut short by the arrival of a dealer in 
second-hand clothes, who, depositing his wooden horse in the 
roadway, addressed them, saying, — 

" Honorable sirs, don't waste your time in defaming one 
another, but bring out your old coats. I am in a hurry to get 
rid of my money." 

This caused the sausage-makers and spectators to laugh, 
and secured the witty fellow a lady customer, who shouted at 
him as though he were deaf, saying, — \ 

" I want a pair of trousers for my husband. None of your 



OTO'S MANLY AVOWAL. 15 ^ 

old rags, mind. Give me something that was once worn bv a 
nobleman." 

" She evidently means to secure a bargain," remarked 
Jewett. 

" Most ladies like to do so," quietly replied Oto. 

" Look at that dear little baby tied to her back," cried 
Sallie. " Is he not 'cute?" 

The child, who was about three years old, made a grimace 
at her, and shouted, — 

" Shu-ten-doji (red-faced ghoul) ! " 

On hearing this, his mother sharply reprimanded him, 
observing, — 

"You must not say such naughty things, or the oni (imps) 
will come for you. You should say onna tojin (foreign 
woman)." 

This remark made the party laugh until their sides ached; 
it being about as comical as the mother of a Californian hood- 
lum scolding her son for calling a Celestial a " heathen Chinee," 
and bidding him address the man as a " benighted foreigner." 

It was the first rude speech made to the Americans, and 
even then the woman did not intend to be impolite. 

While the boys were commenting upon the incident, some 
waitresses entered with trays containing the specialty of the 
establishment; sausages of finely-minced fish, seasoned with 
herbs and fried in highly-colored paper envelopes. 

" I supposed you would prefer these cooked," slily remarked 
Oto. 

"Do you ever eat these raw?" asked Sallie. 

"Yes," he merrily answered. "Do you not sometimes eat 
uncooked ham?" 

" Not I," said the young lady. " I'm afraid of the trichinaP 

They laughed, chatted, enjoyed the repast, drank the deli- 
cious tea, and watched the scene on the street, where an acrobat. 



152 



YOUNG AMERICANS IN JAPAN. 



mounted on high clogs, and his assistant had collected a small 
crowd, consisting of two merchants, a servant-maid carrying a 
child, a domestic who had been purchasing sausages of the 
opposite maker, and three school-boys; one of whom had his 
books tied to his right wrist. 

The performer fastened a horn to the back of his head, 
then tossed two cups and a bottle into the air, and caught them 
in the receptacle; repeating his feat with lightning rapidity. 




A STREET PERFORMANCE. 



His assistant beat a drum placed on a circular lantern, which 
bore the arms of an ex-noble, and yelled vociferously to his 
employer. 

The exhibition greatly delighted the Japanese; even the 
man who tended the charcoal fire of the porcelain cooking- 
range, pausing in his occupation to watcl\ the feats, which were 
loudly applauded by the school-boys. 



OTO S MANLY AVOWAL. 



153 



The Professor gave the performer a few cents, and paid the 
bill for the refreshments, remarking, — 

"Now we will visit the street of the dealers in bron2 

They halted on their way to witness the tricks of a co 
who, squatting upon a mat, executed some marvellous feats of 
sleight-of-hand. Before him was a sambo (box with pierced 
sides used as a tray) supporting an empty bowl, and on his left 
lay a roll of plain white paper. 

He took a sheet of the 
latter, crumpled it up in his 
hand, and threw it into the 
bowl, then drew forth a long 
strip of colored ribbon, which 
he flourished overhead, shout- 
ing,— 

"I am the marvellous ma- 
gician, Kayai." 

The crowd about him was 
too dense for the travellers to watch him with comfort, so they 
resumed their walk, presently arriving at their destination; a 
large street containing shops entirely devoted to the sale of 
bronze bowls, lanterns, and similar works of art. 

Here five lightly-clad coolies were propelling a clumsy 
cart, on which rested an enormous bell that weighed at least 
a ton. 

Although the Japanese government has forbidden people to 
go unclothed, it is not an uncommon sight to see coolies in 
dishabille; however, when the police notice the offenders they 
arrest them, and the law-breakers are heavil}^ fined, and some- 
times punished with imprisonment. 

In the first shop were two ex-nobles, who, on seeing the 
Americans, turned and regarded them with haughty indif- 
ference. 




A CONJUROR. 



154 



YOUNG AMERICANS IN JAPAN. 



FItz, mistaking them for the proprietors, advanced, and 
said, — 

^^Hai! what do you ask for those bronze lanterns on the 
right of the entrance?" 

This caused a customer, who was using a paper handker- 
chief, to cough in a significant manner, as though warning the 
speaker. 




A DEALER IN BRONZES. 



" Those gentlemen are purchasers like yourself," said a 
shopman, who just then came from the back of the store with 
a cup of tea. They are not used to being addressed in that 
familiar manner." 

" Oh ! " coolly replied the boy. " I am sure I beg their pardon." 
On hearing this the proprietor, an old man who was busily 
engaged in dusting some vases with a p^per flapper, turned, 
and said, — 



OTO'S MANLY AVOWAL. 155 

" The price of those lanterns is five yen (dollars) each." 

As he ceased speaking, the building began to shak<^ t^-"^ 
bronzes to rattle and fall, and the earth to tremble; wher v; c^ 
everybody rose and rushed into the street. 

Mrs. Jewett clung to her husband, and Sallie crept close to 
Johnnie. 

The shocks continued for some time, during which the 
contents of the stores were thrown into heaps, and the tiles 
came flying off the roofs. 

When the vibration ceased, Oto whispered in a scared 
tone, — 

"That was ^jisliin (earthquake)." 

" I thought a nitro-glycerine factory had exploded," said 
Fitz, then, addressing the terror-stricken proprietor, who was 
regarding his bronzes with a rueful air, he coolly inquired, — 

" Five yen^ did you say ? Why, I can buy them in New York 
for two and a half. How much will you take for them now 
they have been damaged by the earthquake?" 

The old man gazed at- him in a bewildered fashion, and 
murmured, — 

" Nothing frightens these foreign gentlemen." 

The ladies were really alarmed, and feared a re-occurrence 
of the shocks, so the Professor decided to return to their lodg- 
ing, where they found their host in his best garments, preparing 
to attend a wedding. 

"May I accompany you?" said Fitz. "Do you allow 
foreigners to be present at such ceremonies?" 

" I shall be delighted to take you," he said. " Perhaps your 
father, mother and sister would like to go with us." 

"Do people marry just after such a terrible visitation?" 
asked Sallie, who had not recovered from her scare. 

" Yes, we do not mind such trifling shocks as that," replied 
the man. " Come, it is time we set out." 



1=^6 



YOUNG AMERICANS IN JAPAN. 



As the ladles decided to remain at home the Professor 
stayed with them. 

The boys and their friend entered kago (litters), and were 
carried about three miles to a large house in the suburbs of 
the city. 

The screens had been removed from the interior of the 
dwelling, making a handsome hall, and everything was in 
readiness for the ceremony. 

The visitors were welcomed, then conducted inside, the 
building, and allotted seats on the matted floor. 

Upon the wall, in a recess in the centre of the room, hung 
three kakemono^ representing Dai-koku-fuku-jin (the great 
black god of wealth), Fuku-roku-jin (health-six or longevity 
god), and a third deity, Tebisu (the god of wealth and guardian 
of markets), who bore a huge carp and carried a lantern. On 
the tokonoma (raised floor of the recess) were a pair of vases 

in which burnt incense, a miniature 
rockery and two life-like ivory storks, 
— emblems of long life. 

A raised tray supported a model of 
the pine tree of Takasago, at the base 
of which were tiny figures of the faith- 
ful old man and woman, and the fringe- 
tailed tortoise (emblems of conjugal 
love and fidelity). 

Near this was a smaller tray contain- 
ing two doves. 

A beautiful screen, placed across the 
far end of the room, concealed the 
preparations for the simple ceremony. 

The dresses of the future bride were exhibited on a rack 
before the screen, and were objects of gre^t admiration on the 
part of the guests. 




THE FAITHFUL LOVERS. 



OTO S MANLY AVOWAL. 



157 



When all was ready, the mother of the bridegroom and his 
sisters entered, and knelt on the left of the room, the mott 
the bride following them, and kneeling on the right. 

Then came the happy pair, attended by friends, who, after 
placing them one on the left and the other on the right of the 
pine-tree, retired. 




A WEDDING CEREMONY. 



In a short time two girls, elegantly dressed with their obi 
(girdles) tied in enormous bows, and wearing flowers in their 
hair, brought in a vessel containing sakt, and a tray filled with 
tiny cups. 

The ceremony consisted in the young couple and their 
parents drinking wine. This was repeated until Fitz whis* 
pered, — 

"I am sure the bride will have a headache.'' 



158 YOUNG AMERICANS IN JAPAN. 

" Hush," said Johnnie. " The cups do not hold more than 
a tablespoonful." 

The groom, who was dressed in the old samurai style 
(minus the swords), presently rose, bowed, and quitted the 
apartment, followed by the bride and their relatives. 

After a brief interval the servants entered with refreshments, 
and Mr. Tamai said the ceremony was over. 

"Don't they have a bozu to marry them?" demanded Fitz, 
as the boys enjoyed the good things. 

"No," answered Oto. "Are all your people married by 
ministers ? " 

" I guess not," said Johnnie. " When papa was a justice, 
he married lots of couples." 

" Our marriages are only civil contracts," said Mr. Tamai. 
" We can divorce our wives whenever we please." 

" So can Americans," said Fitz. " You can't beat us at 
anything, sir." 

Their friend smiled, and Oto remarked, — 

" Come, boys, your mother is nervous about the earthquake. 
We will not add to her anxiety. Let us return home." 

The boys paid their respects to the bridegroom, who was 
seated in a recess, smoking with his intimate friends, then 
quitted the house, entered their kago, and were carried swiftly 
to their destination. 

They found Sallie sitting up for them, and eager to learn all 
about the wedding. 

Fitz related what the reader already knows, on hearing 
which the girl said, — 

"Pooh! I am glad I'm not a Japanese! No minister or 
marriage service, no flowers, no music, no bridesmaids, no 
wedding tour. I wonder your young ladies ever get mar- 
ried!" ^ 

Oto laughed, and merrily replied, — 



FROM SHIMONOSEKI TO YOKOHAMA. l6l 



CHAPTER IX. 

FROM SHIMONOSEKI TO YOKOHAMA. 

Far away, with its silver cone 

Towering above the mists, 

Stands lordly Fuji-yama, 

The peerless. mountain, 

Seen from thirteen provinces. — Japanese Poem. 

THE Inland Sea, as foreigners term the body ot waters lying 
between the Southern portion of the main Island of Hondo 
and Shikoku, is full of islands, and the scenery is both romantic 
and beautiful. 

On the morning of the second day out, the ship passed close 
to a pavilion built upon piers, on a rocky point some distance 
from the shore, with which it was connected by a wooden 
bridge. 

The architecture of the pavilion, and of a mansion near it, 
was so different from what the boys had seen in Shimonoseki 
and Nagasaki, that they commented upon it, when Oto said, — 

"Yonder palace was built by the lord of Sanuki in imita- 
tion of a similar edifice on the shore of Lake Biwa. A dread- 
ful tragedy once took place in that pavilion." 

" Do tell us about it," urged Sallie. 

"The story, like most tales of Old Japan, is a sanguinary 
one," said Oto. " The lord of Sanuki had offended the lord of 
Awa, and the latter's retainers swore to avenge the insult. 
One evening, when the owner of that pavilion was entertaining 
some of his friends, sixty samurai (gentry of the clan) of 
Awa, swam off to the building, and, clambering up the piles, 



l62 



YOUNG AMERICANS IN JAPAN. 



attacked the pleasure-party. The result was a prolonged fight, 
ich everybody was killed or subsequently died of their 
Is." 
"Jeminy! " ejaculated Fitz. " What was the cause of the 
quarrel, and wh}^ did not the lords fight?" 
Oto smiled and answered, — 

"It is said that Sanuki contemptuously elevated his nose on 
passing the lord of Avva. In those days such an act was a 
deadly insult." 




PAVILION OF SANITKI. 



" Do you mean to say all that blood was shed because 
one man turned up his nose at another.^ " inquired the amazed 
boy. 

" Yes," said Oto. " Revenging such an act was in accord- 
ance with Tamato damashi^ (the spirit of old Japan.) When 
a great lord was insulted he did not fight his enemy. The 
samurai attended to such little matters." 

He told them many stories of a like nature, and, when they 
were passing Harima, pointed out a turreted structure perched 
on the rocky shore, which he said was tha world-famed castle 
of Ako, described in the "Loyal Ronins." 



FROM SHIMONOSEKI TO YOKOHAMA. 1 63 

"I have read that romance," said Sallie, who just then 
joined them, and was viewing the scene with intense interest. 
" I remember the Forty-seven Renins wanted to die defending 
the castle, but Sir Big-rock, the chief-councillor, persuaded 
them to live and to avenge the death of their lord. It is a 
glorious story." 

" I think 3-ou were wise to abolish the feudal system," said 
Johnnie. "You owe America something for awakening your 
nation from its slumber." 

" Yes," said Oto. 

" And we owe Japan a million of dollars," said Fitz. " I 
think the best way will be for us to put that sum to our credit 
for ending the rule of the great lords." 

" We did that ourselves," said Oto. " The arrival of for- 
eigners in our country only hastened what the loyal men of 
Nihon earnestly desired, the restoration of the Mikado to power. 
You did not overthrow the Shogunate, our patriots accom- 
plished that." 

"All right," coolly answered Fitz. "Then we ought to 
pay you back that money." 

They touched at Kobe and at another port, and stopped at 
several places in order to discharge and take aboard passengers. 

It rained during the remainder of the voyage, and the sky 
did not clear until the afternoon of the last day of the trip, when 
the clouds vanished, and they, for the first time, beheld the lofty 
peak of Fuji-yama. 

Although they had seen many representations of the moun- 
tain, the sight of it was a surprise, and the scene so impressive 
that the boys forgot to chatter, and gazed at the snow-capped 
crest as though fascinated by it. 

The cone glistened in the ra3/s of the declining sun, and 
stood out in bold relief against the pale, rose-tinted sky. The 
mountain, below the cap, was of a dull, purple color, deepening 



164 YOUNG AMERICANS IN JAPAN. 

into black, and the hills in front were of a lovely brown, lighted 
sre and there with gold. 

The travellers watched the charming scene until night 
aropped her mantle, and hid Fuji and its glories from their 
sight, then they found their tongues, and Mrs. Jewett said, — 

" I was prepared to be delighted, still Fuji surpasses my 
expectations." 

" Yes," said the Professor, in a musing tone. " It is the 
most beautiful mountain in the world. I am not astonished the 
Japanese artists depict it so frequently, or that the poets are so 
fond of singing its praises." 

" In all the world there is only one Fujiyama," softly quoted 
Oto. 

" It is a grand sight," said Johnnie. 

" Perfectly exquisite," murmured Sallie. 

" Yes," said Fitz. " What a jolly coast one could have 
down that slope. I suppose there is lots of ice up there?" 

"Of course there is," replied Oto. "Why do you ask ?" 

" Well, you said that ice was dear in Yokohama," answered 
the boy. " Now, if you were to build a shoot from the top of 
Fuji to the bottom, you could send down blocks of ice and 
supply the Yokohama and Tokio folks with a cheap article." 

Oto bit his lips and answered, — 

" You always look at the prosaic side of things, Fitz. It 
would be desecration to build a shoot down the side of Rich- 
scholar-Peak; " adding, good-humoredly, "you forget that 
many of my countrymen regard the mountain as holy, and that 
they perform pilgrimages up its dangerous cone. Nearly every 
year some one is killed in making the ascent or descent." 

"Why not build an inclined railway, then? " said the prac- 
tical lad. " You might make lots of money taking up pilgrims, 
and do a carrying-business in ice. Y9u're not a go-ahead 
people." 



FROM SHIMONOSEKI TO YOKOHAMA. 1 65 

. f 

'*You do not understand what a pilgrimage is," laughing!}* 
retorted Oto. " The devout persons who ascend the mountair 
walk every step, and perform certain ceremonies at each stop 
ping-place. An inclined railway would — would — " 

" Convince them that their zeal had been misdirected," sai 
Fitz. " There is nothing like a railway to enlighten people, 
brings them face to face with modern science and civilizatior 

After supper the Jewetts went on deck, and beheld a nov : 
sight. 

The bay of Yedo was covered with fishing-boats, each ' ' 
which carried in its bow a blazing torch, or pan filled with tow 
and oil. 

The lights flared and flickered, the boatmen yelled and 
shouted hoarsely to one another as they raised their nets from 
the water, and everything was bustle, noise, and animation. 

"They are catching iivashi (sardines) " said Oto. " These 
square nets, suspended from the four corners of the bamboo 
frames, are often too heavy for the fishermen to raise." 

"Why do they burn torches?" asked Sallie. "The moon 
gives light enough for them to fish by." 

" The lights are to attract the fish," answered Oto. " We 
Japanese are great fish-eaters." 

" I thought Buddhists never ate anything that had lived," 
observed Fitz. 

" We are not all Buddhists," replied Oto. " Though two- 
thirds of our population believe in that faith, many of their 
number eat fish." 

" Is that Yokohama, where the foreign ships are anchored," 
inquired Mrs. Jewett. 

" Yes," said Oto. " As soon as the health-officer has visited 
us, we shall be allowed to land." 

"We intend to remain on board until morning," observed 
the Professor. " The captain has given us permission to do so." 



1 66 



YOUNG AMERICANS IN JAPAN. 



The "Adzuma" steamed in and out between the fishing- 
boats, and about ten o'clock dropped anchor off Yokohama. 
Around her were trading-crafts of all nations, Japanese, Ameri- 
can, English, French, and Russian vessels of war, a vast fleet of 
native coasters, and hundreds of passenger-boats awaiting her 
arrival. The ship was quickly boarded b}^ the health-officer, 
w^ho, after having made minute inquiries of the captain, said 





FISHING BY TORCH-LIGHT. 

the passengers might land, and, stepping to the gangway, hailed 
the government steam-tug that had brought him, saying, — 

" Now you can come aboard." 

A crowd of visitors clambered up the vessel's side, and 
mingling with the passengers, eagerly searched for their 
friends. 

Presently Oto uttered a cry of joy, afid rushing toward a 
grave-looking old gentleman, clad in native garb, threw him- 



FROM J . .^ xOKOHAMA. 167 

self on the deck, and bowed his head; the stranger, who was 
trembling violentl}^, kneeling and acknowledging the salute. 

Similar scenes were enacted all over the ship, though some 
of the Japanese shook hands in the American fashion. 

The Jewetts watched their friend, who said, in a voice 
choking with emotion, — 

" Honorable father, this is indeed a happy moment for me." 

"And for me," murmured his parent, down whose cheeks 
big tears were trickling, and whose hands shook as though he 
had an ague. " My dear son, I trust you have returned in good 
health?" 

"I am perfectly well," said Oto. "I hope my honorable 
mother is the same." 

"Yes, honorable wife is perfectly healthy," replied the 
gentleman. 

Both of them bowed repeatedly, as they did so, sucking in 
their breath in a peculiar manner that caused Fitz and Johnnie 
to smile, and glance significantly at one another. 

When the salutations were concluded, Oto rose, and apolo- 
gizing to the Professor for not having introduced him before, 
said, — 

" I was so overjoyed at once more beholding my father's 
face that I forgot what was due to you. Honorable father, 
these are m}^ good friends. Professor and Mrs. Jewett, Miss 
Sallie, and Johnnie and Fitz, about whom I have so often written 
you." 

Mr. Nambo, who during this speech bowed repeatedly 
and sucked in his breath more rapidly than before, was about 
to prostrate himself, and salute the party in Japanese fashion, 
when the Professor extended his hand and begged he would 
remain on his feet. 

" I am not, like my son, a proficient in your manners," said 
the agitated old gentleman, grasping the proffered hand. " You 



^68 YOUNG AMERICANS IN JAPAN. 

must pardon the weakness of a father who has so long been 
parted from his son. I thank you all, from the bottom of my 
heart, for the hundred thousand kindnesses you have shown my 
boy. I hope 3'ou will visit our humble home, and be able to 
-content yourselves with the miserable accommodation I can 
offer." Then he turned to Oto and said: "Your mother has 
repeated many prayers for your safe, return. Buddha has 
answered them. You will have to make a special offer- 
ing to Kuwannon and Benten for their merciful goodness to 
you." 

The irrepressible Fitz, hearing this speech, whispered to 
Oto, in English, — 

" You'll have to hang a pair of your old gum-boots in the 
temple, see if you won't." 

"Hush!" said his mother, frowning. 

Mr. Nambo, who had not understood this, renewed his 
bows, sucked in his breath, and said, — 

" My son, a number of your college friends have come with 
me to welcome you back to your native land. Will you see 
them?" 

" Of course," replied the delighted youth. " I feel just 
crazy to say, ^ how do you do?' to the boys." 

In a few moments a crowd of young men dressed in Ameri- 
can costume, came rushing along the deck. After being 
introduced to the strangers, they shook hands with Oto, in 
foreign style, and welcomed him in English. 

" Hai, old fellow!" cried one. "Why, you look just 
splendid." 

"You have brought home a lot of new ideas, I suppose," 
said another, who wore spectacles. " We are waiting for you 
to join our class. The college has been rebuilt, and we are 
turning out M. D's as fast as the Harvard (Medical School." 

They had with them the materials for a feast, which they 



FROM )SEKI TO YOKOHAMA. I69 

quickly spread up( :k; and amid much merriment the 

Jewetts joined in c )r to Oto's return. 

The captain and othcers looked on, and enjoyed the s< 
as much as any one. 

In the midst of the excitement, a steam-tug came alongside, 
and they heard a cheery voice shouting, in English, — 

" Adzuma, ahoy ! Have you any passengers on board named 
Jewett? " 

Up sprang the Professor, Johnnie and Fitz, and soon a tall 
gentleman clambered over the gangway, and advancing to them, 
held out his hands, saying, — 

"I suppose you are my brother John and his sons?" 

A happy time follow^ed, Mrs. Jewett and Sallie being intro- 
duced to their relation whom they had never seen; Dr. Jewett 
having resided in Japan over twenty years. 

He welcomed Oto warmly, and with his relatives joined the 
group, and partook of the feast, which consisted of cakes, wine, 
and all manner of Japanese delicacies. 

They sat up till nearly midnight, when Mrs. Jewett said, — 

" Gome, Sallie, we must retire. Good-night, gentlemen, this 
has indeed been a pleasant evening." 

Mr. Nambo, Oto, and his college chums smoked and chatted 
long after their American friends had retired, and did not seek 
repose until the day was beginning to dawn. 



170 YOUNG AMERICANS IN JAPAN. 



CHAPTER X. 

YOKOHAMA. 

Where formerly the traveller beheld only a few huts 

Inhabited by poor fishermen, 

And a temple dedicated to Benten, 

He now sees a wealthy city, 

Half foreign, half native. 

This place is called Yokohama. — Japanese Poem. 

EARLY the next morning, the party embarked in boats, and 
were landed on the small hatoba (stone pier of Yoko- 
hama), where they found a carriage waiting to convey them 
to the Bluff; a high, wooded promontory, on the left of the 
Bund or business part of the city. 

Yokohama is built on a little island, separated from the 
mainland by a narrow river, crossed by several bridges, and is 
neatly paved and lighted by gas from works owned by a native 
gentleman named Takashimaya. 

Dr. Jewett had many friends in the place, and one of his 
intimates, an American merchant named Massey, had invited 
the travellers to stay at his residence. 

Sallie mounted her pony, and the rest of the party entered 
the vehicle, which was driven by a native coachman, i;lad in 
English livery. 

As the visitors proceeded through the streets they saw many 
first-class dry-goods stores, confectioner's stores, photograph- 
galleries, eating-houses, jewellers' shops, and newspaper offices. 

"Why, it is like home," said Fitz. "Jeminy! there's a 
dentist's. I can have my teeth attended to." 



r 



!^^^^ ifl 



.?^ 




172 YOUNG AMERICANS IN JAPAN. 

The carriage was driven in and out among a moving crowd 
of similar vehicles, nearly all the merchants owning con- 
veyances drawn by horses. The new-comers also noticed 
hundreds oi jin-riki-sha^ propelled by hardy-looking runners, 
who shouted vociferously, and appeared to enjoy the exercise. 

The police were in uniform, and everything denoted a well- 
regulated city, the inhabitants of which were doing a prosper- 
ous business. 

After a pleasant ride, the party arrived at the residence of 
Dr. Jewett's friend, who, with his wife, welcomed them to 
Yokohama, and made them feel perfectly at home. 

When they had enjoyed the luxury of a bath and had break- 
fasted, they sat in the veranda, looked down upon the settle- 
ment, and spied through a telescope at the vessels riding at 
anchor in the bay of Yedo. 

The houses were mostly of brick or stone, and were built 
entirely by Japanese artisans. 

About ten o'clock, Johnnie and Fitz started for a walk, 
leaving their parents and Sallie to enjoy the society of their 
host and hostess. Dr. Jewett, Oto, and his father had gone to 
Tokio, so the brothers were left to their own resources. 

" Yokohama means across the beach," said Johnnie. " They 
ought to have called it Swamptown. Most of the new houses 
are built in a puddle." 

" I guess they, like the Bostonians, have used up all the dry 
land, and are taking to the mud," laughingly replied Fitz, as 
they halted before a building which some plasterers were 
covering with stucco. " See how differently the Japanese do 
things from us. Instead of using hods, they scoop up the 
stucco with long shovels, which they raise to the stages occu- 
pied by the plasterers." 

"Yes, and most of them squat at their work," said Johnnie. 

"What a strangely-shaped tool that carpenter is using," 



YOKOHAMA. 



173 



remarked his brother. "It is made like a hoe. I suppose those 
young men in long kimono (coats) are the foremen. What 
can their sticks be for? " 

" Those are measuring-rods," answered the other. " See, 
one of them has a builder's square in his hand." 




JAPANESE BUILDERS AT WORK. 

They watched the busy scene, and chatted with the super- 
intendents, who informed the boys that they had been in 
America, and had worked on the New York Elevated Rail- 
road. 

While they were talking, a lad passed, carrying a big, ugly 
poodle. 

"Why don't you let that dog walk? " inquired Fitz. 

The bearer grinned and, halting, replied, — 

" This is a very valuable animal, and I have strict orders 
not to lose him." 



174 



YOUNG AMERICANS IN JAPAN. 



"Is that why you cam' himV" inquired the amused Amer- 
ican. 

The boy nodded, and said, — 

"Yes — partly. You 
see, if he gets muddy I 
have to wash him, 
which he does not Hke; 
so I prefer to carry him 
like a child." 

"Why not tie a 
string to his collar?" 
said Johnnie. 

"Didn't I tell you 
he would get muddy?" 
returned the dog car- 
r i e r. " You are an 
American, are you 
not?" 

" What makes you 
think that? " demanded 
Fitz. 

" Because you ask a 
hundred thousand ques- 
tions," was the saucy 
response. " I once lived 
with an American, but 
he was too smart, and wouldn't let me make my little per- 
quisites. I like the English; they are more easily pleased 
than your people." 

Away he went, leaving the brothers laughing at his im- 
pudent manner. 

" He has lived with the English, and learned to be cheeky," 
remarked one of the builders. " Our boys are not all like him." 




A FOREIGN DOG AND ITS ATTENDANT. 



^ 



YOKOHAMA. 



175 



" I think he is real smart," said Johnnie. ^"^ What right had 
we to bother him with our questions ? " 

The 3'oung Americans bade the builders sayonara (adieu, 
or farewell) then strolled through the Bund, or business portion 
of the foreign settlement, which was well-paved, and had con- 
crete side"walks. 

" The warehouses are like our own," said Fitz. 
" Yes," nodded Johnnie. " I guess the merchants are mostly 
American or English. Suppose we go on to the Japanese 
quarter." 

" What a number of Chinamen there are here," observed his 
brother, as they watched a neatly dressed clerk, who was giving 

a Japanese coolie in- 
structions about the 
conveyance of some 
bales of goods. "Hoav 
fat and well - to - do 
they look." 

His speech was 

overheard by the 

man, and when they 

■'"""' had passed he said to 

the coolie, — 

" Those are Americans. Never go to their country, they 
treat foreigners like dogs." 

Fitz was about to reply, but Johnnie said, — 
" Hush, brother, you had no right to make the remark, be- 
sides, he only spoke the truth." 

They met coolies carrying immense loads of empty cases, 
and watched a man varnishing the outside of some tea-chests, 
and a native merchant weighing tea with wooden balances. 

"Why do you put that stuff on the chests?" inquired 
Johnnie. 




A CHINESE CLERK. 



176 YOUNG AMERICANS IN JAPAN. 

" To make them waterproof," answered the workman. " The- 
sea-air penetrates into the holds of the ships, and, if it were not 
for the lead cases and this varnish, would spoil the tea. Your 
honorable countrymen are our best customers." 

"Do you like the Chinese? " demanded Fitz. 

The coolie glanced at his interrogator and answered, — 

" Not — particularly." 

"Why not?" 

"They are too smart," returned the man. "I wish they 
would not come here and gobble up all the best situations." 

" Why do you not supplant them?" said Johnnie. 

The man scratched his ear, and thought awhile, then said, — - 

"They are too much for us. Can you get rid of them after 
they have once settled in your honorable country?" 

" I do not think we can," answered Fitz. 

The coolie laughed bitterly and said, in a sing-song tone : 

" You can kill a fly and 
Smoke out a mosquito, 
But you cannot dislodge a Chinaman ! 
They .do not conquer a country 
By force of arms, but 
By dint of patience and numbers." 

" That is a clever satire ! " said Johnnie. " Who composed 
it?" 

" I read it in yesterday's paper," was the answer. 

" Do you have dailies ? " inquired Fitz. 

" Yes, we have also many weekly newspapers. My 
brother, who is a wealthy man, edits one." 

"Then why are you not in his employ?" 

"I am too fond of sake (rice wine)," was the candid 
response. " If I were not, I should be better off. Sayonara.''^' 

In the Japanese quarter of Yokohama the brothers saw- 
many large stores filled with works of art. 

" Want anything to buy ? " asked one of the dealers in. 



I?^ YOUNG AMERICANS IN JAPAN. 

broken English. " Everything what you want, got here — 
yees! " 

" How much for that large cabinet? " asked Fitz. 

He spoke in EngHsh, so the man, not imagining the boys 
understood Japanese, said to his employer, — 

" How much am I to ask these innocent foreigners for 
that?" 

" Five hundred dollars," replied the proprietor. 

When this was translated, they pretended to be anxious to 
purchase, and putting off their shoes, stepped over the shop- 
board and began to examine the wares. 

" Ask them four hundred," presently observed the proprie- 
tor. " They will give any sum for an article they fancy." 

"We do not want to pay foreign prices," said Johnnie in 
Japanese. " We could get a cabinet like that cheaper in New 
York." 

The amazed dealers bowed, and when his man had offered 
the customers tea, the master said, — 

" Evidently you knov/ the real value of things. Just say 
what 3/0U will give and I will accept or reject your offer." 

"Is that your way of doing business?" asked Fitz. 

" Yes, with honorable foreigners who can speak our 
language," was the prompt reply. 

They purchased some hashi (chopsticks), and inquired of 
the men whether there was anything to be seen in Yokohama. 

" Have you been to the temple of Benten?" said the dealer. 

" No." 

" Go there, you will find it at the end of Benten tori 
(street). It is well worth seeing." 

The brothers quitted the store, and after walking down an 
avenue, saw a weather-beaten torii, denoting the entrance to 
the temple. ^ 

It had a forlorn look, and the surroundings were in keeping 



YOKOHAMA. 



179 



with the appearance of the structure. Beyond it was a second 
torii and two stone lanterns, then a number of dilapidated 
buildings and a grove, in which stood the temple of Ben-zai- 
tin-njo, or Benten, the goddess of the sea. 

The lads ascended the steps of the build'ng and putting cff 
their shoes, entered the main portion in which was a shrine 







"* — "V 



n-j^ 




THE BENTEN TORI (AVENUE) AND TORII. 

containing the image of the goddess, who was represented as 
sitting on a rock overlooking the waves and playing on a biwa 
(pear-shaped guitar). 

Below her, in the surf, was a black object, which a ragged 
mendicant, who spoke horrible English, and who took charge 
of the foreign strangers, informed them was intended to 
represent a dragon. 

Their self-appointed guide proved to be a thorough nuisance, 



i8o 



YOUNG AMERICANS IN JAPAN. 



M. 






so Fitz said, in Japanese, to a young dozu, who was dustifig an 

idol, — 

" Is this one of your people? " 

The dozu ordered the man to be off, whereupon the fellow 

departed, muttering: "Yeh! those foreigners are mean, they 

have learned our 
language in order 
to deprive us poor 
guides and inter- 
preters of our liv- 
ing. I wonder how 
they would like us 
to go to their coun- 
try and learn their 
— gibberish? " 

The young l>ozu 
proved to be a very 
pleasant, gentle 
person, and was 
most kind and at- 
tentive to his visit- 
ors, showing them 
the various objects 
of interest, and 
explaining every- 
thing that puzzled 
them. 
On the left of the main altar was a recess filled with rude 

models of native craft, some large and the others mere toys. 
" Those were deposited there by persons whom Benten has 

delivered from shipwreck," said their guide. "Ah! if people 

would only have more faith in her." . 

"Who was Benten?" asked Fitz. 




THE GODDESS BENTEN. 



YOKOHAMA. l8l 

"Have you never heard?" queried the young bozu. 
" Come with me up in the roof, v^here it is cool, and I will tell 
you all about our wonderful goddess." 

They ascended a number of dusty ladders, and presently 
found themselves on a platform of rough boards, placed 
across the beams, between the first and second roofs of the 
structure. 

Below them, like a panorama, was Yokohama and the Bay 
of Yedo, and away in the distance they beheld the blue moun- 
tains of Awa and Kadzusa. 

"I am not on duty now," said the bozu\ "I thought if we 
came up here we would have an opportunity to talk without 
being disturbed by these wretched beggars." 

He produced a pipe, some finely-cut tobacco, and a flint 
and steel, which he politely offered to his guests. 

" Thank you, we do not smoke," said Johnnie. 

" I am not supposed to," said their new friend, in an 
apologetical manner, " but I am sometimes tempted to do it, I 
am so lonely." 

" Oh, go ahead," answered Johnnie. " Enjoy yourself 
while you can, we won't tell any one." 

The bozu filled the tin}^ bowl of his pipe, and after taking a 
few puffs, knocked out the ashes, and said, — 

" I promised to enlighten you about Benten. Many 
centuries ago, when this part of Japan was very swampy — " 

" It is pretty soft round here now," murmured Fitz, glancing 
down upon the settlement. 

"You are right," said their entertainer. "But in those 
days it was much vv^orse, and the land was infested with 
dragons;" pausing, and refilling his pipe. "Have you any of 
those monsters in your honorable country? " 

"No," said Fitz; "though we can beat the world in the 
matter of alligators. We make boots out of their skins." 



152 YOUNG AMERICANS IN JAPAN. 

This reply puzzled the bozu, who scratched his ear, and 
continued, — 

" Those dragons played havoc with the people, sometimes 
devouring a hundred children every day. Of course no 
country could stand such a drain on its population. Strange 
to say, the creatures seldom killed adults or aged persons." 

" Guess the latter were too tough," suggested Fitz. ' 

The bozu did not smile, but went on, — 

" They used to fight and tear up the ground, and the air 
was filled with their roars and cries, which caused the people 
to quake with fear and pray to the gods. One night, when the 
monsters were having a desperate battle in the marshes, a storm 
arose and stopped them. At dawn, when it cleared off, Benten 
was seen in a cloud-rift, and the fishermen heard sounds of 
celestial music. As she revealed herself, the dragons vanished, 
and the island of Enoshima rose from the waters of the bay. 
Having conferred this blessing on mankind, she retired to her 
abode beneath the waves. Whenever it storms we pray to 
her, and upon moonlight nights she is often seen on the edge 
of the cliffs, sitting with her biiva on her knees, and playing 
most ravishing airs. At her command, the w^inds blow and the 
waters rise and fall. She had a large family, and is worshipped 
as a model mother and housekeeper;" adding, as he once 
more filled his pipe: "I could talk forever about Benten." 

"What is that building down there, close to your rear 
gate ? " asked Johnnie. 

"Another church," replied the bozu,^\\}5i a sigh. "You 
foreigners are ruining our temples. When I came here we 
had a larger number of worshippers than the building could 
accommodate; now we only see a few old women who put 
brass cash in the money-box. Why do your missionaries not 
stay at home and convert your sailors and merchants.'* they 
need it badly enough." 



YOKOHAMA. 1 83 

Then he again sighed, and gazed ruefully at the walls of the 
new church. 

" Guess you are run down," said Fitz. " Don't you ever 
take a vacation ? " 

" No ; I cannot leave my superior, who is a very old man. 
My only amusement is to sit up here and smoke. I often cry 
for hours together. What do you do when you feel sad ? " 

"Ask mother to give me some medicine," said Fitz. 

" If I only had something to distract my attention, I should 
be happy," said the poor fellow. " Cannot you tell me of any- 
thing that would help me to pass the time; I mean a problem 
to work out. We bozu have invented many different ones, but 
I know them all. Have you Americans any such things?" 

Fitz glanced slyly at his brother, and said, — 

" I suppose you have heard of the jiugo-ban komaraseru 
(fifteen puzzle) ? " 

" Do you refer to the fifteen visions of Benten ? " 

"No; it is a simple cure for such a complaint as yours," 
answered Fitz. " It was invented by an American." 

He took a piece of paper from his pocket-book, and cutting 
it into squares, marked each with a Japanese number. The bozu 
watched the proceedings with the greatest interest, and asked 
a hundred questions, his childlike manner greatly amusing the 
boys. 

Fitz arranged the papers, and explained how they were to 
be moved, when the young man said, — 

" I must show this to my superior. Come, he will be glad 
to see you. Any visitor is welcome here nowadays." 

They descended to the floor of the temple, and entering a 
small room behind the centre altar, beheld a very old man, who 
had in his hands a brush of long, white horse-hair, mounted on 
an ivory handle. He was very deaf, and had not a tooth in his 
head. 



184 YOUNG AMERICANS IN JAPAN. 

The young bozu shouted into his ear, and exhibited the 
puzzle, on seeing which the old man mumbled, — 

"I know this. It was invented by Jimmu Tenno, and no 
person has ever solved it." 

"Who was Jimmu Tenno?" shouted Fitz. 

The old gentleman waved his horse-tail, and relapsing into a 
sort of doze, mumbled, — 

" What does he mean ? " demanded the inquisitive boy. 

"He is praying," whispered the young bozu. "Jimmu 
Tenno was our first Mikado (Emperor) . That puzzle is twenty- 
five hundred years old. There is nothing new in the world." 

" Did not Jimmu Tenno also discover electricity, and invent 
the steam-engine and telephone?" asked Johnnie. 

" No," gravely answered the bozu. " He was not a ma- 
gician. Those things were the inventions of evil demons." 

While they were conversing, the old man continued to 
mumble ; so Fitz said to their friend, — 

" Why does he say Nammiyof " 

" To save the trouble of repeating the entire prayer," gravely 
replied the bozu. " We take na from the first word, ini from 
the second, and yo from the sound of Butsu. It saves time." 

The boys smiled. 

" Say," said Fitz, " why does he wave that horse-tail so ? 
To keep off the flies? " 

" That is a sacred emblem, and denotes authority," returned 
the bozu. "We regard it as you do the sceptre of your king." 

"King! " cried Fitz. "We have no kings in our country. 
We rule ourselves." 

The young man regarded them with astonishment, then 
murmured, as though thinking aloud, — 

" How can a nation exist that does nbt believe in Benten, 
and has no head ? " 



YOKOHAMA. 1 85 

*' Oh ! we get along well enough with a President," bluntly 
answered Fitz. 

Their guide then led the way into a grove of bamboo, in the 
rear of the temple, and, pointing to some tombs, said, — 

" This is our burial-ground. Is it not a delightful spot to sit 
and think in? " 

"Fm not particularly partial to cemeteries," said Johnnie. 
"I wonder you don't move those tombs and sell the land for 
building purposes. Who is this man coming towards us?" 

" He is a beggar bozu^'' was the contemptuous reply. 
"They are a nuisance. We are poor enough without being 
compelled to share our rice with them." 

The stranger approached, and, bowing to the boys, said, — 

" Honorable sirs, there is a telegraph messenger looking for 
you. He has followed you from the Bluff." 

It sounded comical to hear such a speech from a shayen- 
headcd bozu, and the boys could not refrain from smiling. 

" Bring the messenger hither," said their friend. 

The stranger retired, and soon returned with a lad clothed 
in the uniform of the telegraph company, who, after inquiring 
whether the Americans were named Jewett, handed them an 
envelope, saying, — 

"Twenty sen. Please pay me, and sign my book." 

While Fitz was doing this, his brother read the telegram, 

which was dated Tokio, and ran as follows, — 

"Tell your father that I shall come to Yokohama early to-morrow. 
Everything is ready for your reception here. — Oto." 

The boys bade the young bozu adieu, and, as they quitted 
the grounds, saw him squatting near one of the tombs working 
out his puzzle. 

" What a strange country this is ! " said Johnnie. " Benten, 
the telegraph; ancient superstitions and modern civilization 
jostling one another and struggling for the mastery." 



1 86 YOUNG AMERICANS IN JAPAN. 

"The telegraph will wipe Benten out of existence," said 
Fitz. " That bozu let the cat out of the bag wTien he said our 
modern discoveries were the inventions of demons. Benten will 
have to take her banjo and retire to her watery domain. She 
cannot conjure the dragons called steam, electricity, and the 
printing-press; nor can her bozu — " 

"Solve the ancient fifteen puzzle," added Johnnie. 

They laughed and chatted as they walked to the Bluff, on 
reaching which they met their parents and Sallie, out for a 
drive. 

Johnnie showed them the telegram, when the Professor 
said, — 

" Your uncle has the refusal of a house for us, and has ob- 
tained permission for us to travel anywhere for six months. 
We will first visit Oto's relations, then take up our residence in 
our new abode, which is in the hilly part of the city of Tokio." 

" Boys," inquired Mrs. Jewett, " what have you been doing 
with yourselves this morning?" 

The boys laughed, and said, — 

"We have been making the acquaintance of Mrs. Benten, 
and instructing one of her servants in the fifteen puzzle." 

The Professor was highly amused with his son's account of 
their adventures, and remarked, — 

" You are right, Johnnie. In a few years the temples will 
be emptied of their rubbish, and — " 

" Turned into telegraph offices," suggested Fitz. " Good- 
bye, sir. You continue your drive; we are going to the 
dentist's." 



TOKIO. 187 



CHAPTER XL 

TOKIO. 

When Yamato Dake arrived at Sakamoto 
He gazed down upon the plain and bay of Yedo, 
And remembering his beloved Tachibana-hime, 
Cried, "Adzuma! Adzuma! " (my wife, my wife.) 

Japanese Poem. 

TOKIO (the Eastern Capital), formerly called Yedo, is 
eighteen miles from Yokohama, and is connected with the 
settlement by a well-kept railway that has a double track, iron 
bridges, and handsome depots. 

Oto arrived, according to promise, and at noon the travellers 
quitted their friends on the Bluff, and drove to the Yokohama 
terminus; a stone building, in which were a crowd of Japanese 
waiting for the train to start. 

Nearly all of them were dressed in native costume, and 
wore high clogs of wood that rattled on the floor in a very 
noisy manner. 

" Chinese everywhere," said Fitz, as his father changed 
some gold into kinsato (paper money). "Japan will be ruined 
by cheap Chinese labor." 

" All our porters and depot-masters are Japanese," quickly 
retorted Oto. " Many of your railway oflScials are of foreign 
birth." 

"Your conductors and engine-drivers are not natives," 
answered the boy; "they are our countrymen." 

" Wrong for once," said Oto quietly. " They are English- 
men. We contracted to employ the men for a certain number 
of years, and are obliged to keep them on, or break our word. 



1 88 YOUNG AMERICANS IN JAPAN. 

As soon as their time is up, we have natives fully competent to 
take their places." 

The fare for each person was a yen^ and baggage was 
charged extra, but not checked, as in the States. 

A betto (groom) had been hired to ride Abraham Lincoln 
to Tokio, and two of Mr. Nambo's servants sent down to take 
Mrs. ]QWQt^ s, Jin-riki-sha by road. 

The Doctor was at the hospital in Tokio, but his popularity 
was felt by his relatives, who were treated with great kindness 
by the railway employes. 

"Anything for the friends of the good Doctor," said the 
conductor. " When I was sick last year, he was ever so kind 
to me." 

The tickets were marked from "Yokohama to Shinbashi," 
a village once distant from the capital, though now forming 
part of its suburbs. 

The train quitted the charming environs of Yokohama, 
entered the plain of Yedo, rattled along the shore of the bay, 
and crossed several streams, on one of which Fitz spied a 
basket moored by a line. 

" I don't believe you can guess the use of that apparatus," 
said Oto. 

" It is a fish- trap," said the boy. 

"A lobster-pot," suggested Johnnie. 

"An old basket, thrown away as useless," said Sallie. 

" No," was the smiling reply. " It is a duckling protector. 
The water-rats, hereabouts, are so numerous that the country 
folks are obliged to put their young ducks in such contrivances. 
It has one end higher than the other, and is made of strong 
bamboo, bound with iron hoops." 

"Sold!" cried Fitz. "We don't want such machines in 
our country. We raise our ducks by steam\" 

After a pleasant ride they reached their destination, where 



TOKIO. 189 

they found hundreds oi jin-riki-sha waiting to convey the 
passengers to any part of the city. 

Each of the travellers engaged a vehicle, and when all 
were seated, they started for Oto's home. 

A jin-riki-sha is only a large baby-carriage, with shafts 
like a cart, and is drawn by one or more men. In Tokio nearly 
all of them have two attendants, one to run in the shafts, and 
the other to pull on a rope or push behind. These coolies 
wear decent dresses, are licensed, and have their heads partly 
shaven in the old style. 

The travellers, after going a long distance through narrow 
streets and over many canals, were trundled over the world- 
famed Nippon Bashi (great bridge of Japan), from which they 
caught a passing glimpse of Fuji-yama. 

The bridge, a wooden structure much inferior to many 
others in the city, was thronged with people, and the noise 
of their clogs, the rumbling of the carts and other vehicles, 
and shouts of 'CaQ jin-riki-sha men were almost deafening. 

Coolies, carrying enormous fish suspended from bamboo 
poles, were running to and fro; the bridge being in the vicinity 
of the largest market in the city, and the landing-place for 
fishermen, who arrived with their finny prizes at all hours of 
the day. 

The boys had been told that all distances in Japan were 
measured from the Nippon Bashi, so Fitz shouted to Oto, — 

" Say, where is.the first mile-stone '^ " 

" A mile from here, in any direction," was the laughing 
answer. 

On they went through streets filled with shops and alive 
with pedestrians. 

Nearly every person wore the national dress; only aliens, 
officials, soldiers, sailors, policemen, and a few mercnants and 
students being clothed in foreign garb. 



190 



YOUNG AMERICANS IN JAPAN. 



The ladies were neatly attired, and nobody was without 
garments. 

The jin-rikisha men spun their vehicles along at a rapid 
pace, and presently entered an avenue lined with long build- 
ings that were pierced at intervals with small windows, and 




THE GATEWAY OF MR. NAMBO'S ESTABLISHMENT. 



separated from the roadway by deep ditches containing 
running water. 

" Which is your yashiki (mansion) ? " inquired Oto's 
coolie. 

The young man pointed ahead, to a narrow gateway 
between two of the barrack-like structures, and said, — 

" That is my honorable father's. He is on the watch for 
us." \ 

The avenue was broad, and the houses and fences in excel- 



TOKIO. 191 

lent repair. Beyond, on a little hill, was a lovely park filled 
with beautiful trees. 

A few persons only were to be seen, and the place wore an 
air of repose and respectability. When the jin-riki-sha 
stopped in front of the gateway, Mr. Nambo advanced, and 
assisted the ladies to alight, saying, — 

" I fear you have had a most wearisome ride. Welcome to 
my miserable abode, which is not worthy to be honored by 
your august presence." 

He sucked in his breath in a (Japanese) gentlemanly 
manner, then, after bowing repeatedly, conducted his guests 
across the narrow bridge, through the gateway, and into a 
garden filled with glorious flowers, variegated shrubs, and noble 
trees. In the midst of this earthly paradise stood a number of 
beautifully decorated buildings that denoted both the wealth 
and good taste of their owner. 

"What a charming spot! " exclaimed Mrs. Jewett. 

" An}^ monkeys in those trees?" demanded Fitz. 

"No," smilingly replied Oto; "but we have lots of foxes in 
our grounds." 

" There is my wife by the house," said Mr. Nambo. " My 
niece is sitting near her." 

On hearing his voice, the younger lady rose and advanced 
with her aunt to greet their visitors. 

When Mr. Nambo presented his wife, she shook hands 
with Mrs. Jewett and Sallie, and bowing to the Professor and 
boys, said, in a voice choking with emotion, — 

" How can I thank you for all your kindness to our dear 
son? I little thought, when he was sent to your honorable 
country, he would find a second mother and father." 

" Oto brought his own recommendation, and we could not 
help liking him," replied the lady. " We all think everything 
of him." 



192 



YOUNG AMERICANS IN JAPAN. 



They were then introduced to the niece, O-Kiku (Miss 
Chrysanthemum), who, to their astonishment, spoke excellent 
English. 

"I was educated in the Ladies' College," she said. "I 
have come to keep Miss Sallie company." 



ii, :> 






'm^f.m 



' ,•!'! Ill' 

-■"!; l.l'lPi'lUll 



;iiippiiijliii;ii&iiM'^.';iii|ii 




O-KIKU (miss chrysanthemum). 

"Yes," gently added Oto's mother, who, spite of her 
shaven eyebrows, blackened teeth, and wrinkles, was a charm- 
ing lady; "we thought your daughter would like a companion 
of her own age." 



194 YOUNG AMERICANS IN JAPAN. 

After chatting a while, they entered the first house on their 
left, which was arranged and furnished in foreign style. 

" We hope you will not think of taking up your abode in 
the Northern district," observed Mr. Nambo. " It is a very 
unhealthy locality, and you will be devoured by mosquitos. 
We have always expected the honor of entertaining you, and 
shall feel grieved if you do not stay with us." 

There was no resisting such a pressing invitation, so the 
Professor accepted it. 

"This is the American part of our establishment," said 
Mrs. Nambo, as the party seated themselves and partook of 
tea, served by a light-footed maid. " We furnished it years 
ago for Oto and his friends. Though I did not like him to 
wear foreign clothes, I made no objection to his sleeping on a 
bed, and having chairs and tables in his rooms." 

The visitors laughed, and Mrs. Jewett related how she had 
stripped Oto's chamber to make him feel at home. 

On hearing the story. Miss Chrysanthemum, who was 
seated on a chair in the veranda, and who still retained her 
clogs, laughingly remarked, — 

" Well, I should smile! You don't tell me! Cousin Oto 
used to sleep on an American bed at the Imperial College." 

" Yes ; and a shocking hard one it was," said Oto. " At 
first, before the faculty learned the arrangement of foreign 
beds, we had no mattresses-, and were compelled to lie upon 
mat-covered boards, placed on the hard slats of the bedsteads." 

" That is nothing," said his cousin. " When an English 
friend presented my honorable father with a brass bedstead^ 
we thought it was a frame to train plants on, and placed it in 
the garden. I guess some of our articles puzzle foreigners as 
greatly as that did us ! " 

She laughed so merril}'^, and was s6 good-tempered and nice, 
that the visitors liked her at once. 



TOKIO. 195 

"Where did you learn to say, ^Well, I should smile'?"' 
asked Fitz, taking a seat on the veranda near her. 

" Of my teacher," she replied. " Isn't it correct? " 

" It is not considered quite genteel," said Oto, joining them. 
"Of course, people use that expression, but it is better to say: 
'You surprise me,' or 'That is very amusing.'" 

The young lady bit her lips, and murmured, — 

"Oh, bother!" 

When the visitors had rested they were conducted to their 
respective rooms. Mrs. Nambo accompanied the ladies, and Ota 
showed the boys their quarters. 

The apartments were not screened as in an ordinary Japa- 
nese house, but divided by walls, which were covered with 
stamped paper that looked like leather. 

In the rear of Mrs. Jewett's room was a miniature garden^ 
representing a lake crossed by a bridge, the approaches to 
which were guarded with gates. 

" I arranged that from a picture of a view in your Central 
Park, sent me by Oto," said the hostess. " I wanted you ta 
imagine you were looking at a scene in your honorable country. 
Have I modelled the gates correctly?" 

" Beautifully," answered Mrs. Jewett. " I feel quite at home. 
Are there any frogs in that pond?" 

"No; it is filled with tame gold-fish. You will find them 
quite amusing, and they don't stray about a house as frogs do. 
If you ring that bell, they will swim up to the landing for their 
food. They were Oto's pets, so I have kept them for him. 
Ah ! he is a good boy ! " 

After they had chatted about various matters, Mrs. Jewett 
inquired what the lady thought of her son's change of 
opinions. 

Mrs. Nambo hesitated for a moment, then said, — 

" Oto has arrived at years of discretion, and knows his own 



196 YOUNG AMERICANS IN JAPAN. 

mind. He has told me what he believes, and I am endeavoring 
to bear it without murmuring. Still — I am deeply grieved." 
She wept softly for awhile, then added : " It is harder to bear 
than was our long separation. I suppose he knows best, and- 
that we are all wrong." 

Mrs.Jewett, finding the subject a painful one, changed th© 
conversation, and spoke of her pleasant experiences in South- 
ern Japan. 

While the ladies were conversing, Oto and the boys were 
talking in the latter's room. 

" Say," said Fitz, " your father spoke of his humble abode, 
so we expected to find a very different place from this." 

" We never boast of our belongings," replied their friend. 
" My father is tolerably wealthy, though not so rich as formerly. 
This estate once belonged to our daimio. My parent bought 
it of the Government. It is quite an extensive place." 

He drew aside a curtain, and revealed a beautiful gateway 
with heavy doors, on which sky-dogs and mon (crests) were 
carved in bold relief. 

"How came the courtyard in such a dilapidated state?" 
demanded Johnnie. 

"This was once the main entrance to '&iQ yashiki (man- 
sion)," replied Oto. "The low wall and yonder ruined stone 
lantern were part of a temple destroyed during the war. My 
father tore down the remains of the structure, and built this 
house for me. My education and the many demands upon his 
purse have prevented him from carrying out his original plan." 

"What was that?" asked Fitz. 

"To rebuild the temple," slyly answered Oto. "Now, I 
shall have the rubbish cleared away, and mean to erect a labora- 
tory on the spot." 

"What does that man, who is sitting there, want of us?" 
said Johnnie. 



198 YOUNG AMERICANS IN JAPAN. 

" He is the betto (groom) who rode your sister's pony from 
Yokohama," returned Oto. " He desires to know if you will 
engage him. Now you have agreed to be our guests, you will 
not require his services. We have plenty of help, and the 
pony will be well cared for." 

The boys gave the groom a dollar, and he went away 
happy. 

"Now come and see my room," said their friend. 

They followed him into the next apartment, where they 
saw a large library, a neat bed above which hung a mosquito 
netting, lounges, chairs, tables, and a fireplace for burning 
wood. 

"A few years ago this house was the onl}^ one in Tokio 
with a chimney," remarked Oto. "Father was thought crazy 
for building it, but now many dwellings are fitted with such 
conveniences." 

"What do your people do in winter?" said Johnnie. 

" They put on plenty of clothing, and shiver over the 
hibachi (fire-bowl) . We are far behind you in the matter of 
warming our houses." 

Next to Oto's room was a small room furnished in Japanese 
style. 

" My foster-mother lives in there," whispered Oto. "Come 
and say something kind to her. She is greatly grieved at my 
having become so Americanized." 

Fitz and Johnnie followed him, and beheld two women, the 
elder of whom was boiling water over a charcoal fire enclosed 
in a box. 

Behind her was a metal mirror resting on a frame, and near 
her companion was a samisen, some cups, and a bottle. 

On seeing the visitors, both women prostrated themselves, 
and knocked their foreheads on the mat|:ed floor. 

" These are my good friends, Johnnie and Fitz," said Oto. 



TOKIO. 



199 



" Come, Mitsu-ro (Mrs. Beeswax), they wish to speak with 
you." 

"Beeswax," murmured Fitz, smiling. "What a comical 
name for a woman." 

Oto made a gesture of reproof, and when the old lady sat 
up, said, — 

"This is Johnnie Sama (Mr.), and this is Fitz Sama." 




OTO S FOSTER-MOTHER. 



" I thank you for being kind to my honorable foster-son," 
said the melancholy-featured dame. "Why did you bewitch 
him and blind him to the truth? " 

" Don't mind what she says," whispered Oto, in English. 
" Say something complimentary to her." 

This puzzled his companions. 

"Why does the other one stay doubled up in that fashion?" 
asked Fitz, in English, indicating the daughter, who remained 
in the respectful attitude. 

" Say something complimentary to my nurse," urged Oto. 



200 YOUNG AMERICANS IN JAPAN. 

"Anything will do. You surely can recollect a short poem? 
Our old servants are always pleased with such things." 

^' Jeminy ! " murmured Fitz. " Poem — oh, I know! Honor- 
able aged lady," addressing her in Japanese, and bowing in the 
correct native style: ^^Take ni suzume tua shinayoku tomaru 
Tomete tomarunu irono tyiichiP 

On hearing this the dame giggled, and the daughter 
crammed her sleeve in her mouth, to keep from laughing out- 
right. 

Fitz had repeated a sentimental poem, which is thus trans- 
lated : 

" Though the sparrow can find a resting-place 
On the slender spray of the bamboo, 
Alas ! I can find no resting-place 
Near thee." 

" That will do splendidly," said Oto. " Now, Mitsuro, say 
something in return." 

The amused old woman assumed a grave air, and folding 
her hands, murmured, — 

^^Tsuru tva sennenP (The stork lives a thousand years 
— meaning, may you, like the stork, live a long life.) 

"Won't you pay her a compliment, Johnnie," whispered 
Oto. 

" I think Fitz has said enough," was the cautious reply. 
'^ I am not a good hand at speaking pieces." 

They drank a cup of tea and ate a few sweetmeats; then 
retired. 

After that the old lady took charge of them, and treated the 
young Americans as she did Oto. 

Japanese servants almost worship their masters, and are 
permitted to do and say many things that would astonish our 
domestics. 

"Why does she live near you?"^ asked Fitz, as they 
returned to Oto's room. 



TOKIO. 20I 

*^ She was my foster-mother, and has always occupied a 
room adjoining mine," he said. " When I was in the States 
she took charge of my quarters and kept them ready for my 
return. If I cough in the night, she comes in to give me 
medicine, and is very good to me." 

"She won't want to dose us, will she?" inquired Johnnie. 

" Don't worry yourself," was the laughing rejoinder. " She 
"has the rheumatism and cannot walk very far. These old 
servants are very dear to us, and you must make allowances for 
their peculiarities." 

"Why did she laugh at my poem?" demanded Fitz. 

Oto chuckled and said, — 

"We do not repeat such averse to aged persons." 

" I thought you said any poem would do. You know you 
wrote that in the book you sent home one New Year." 

"Yes," nodded Oto; "but that was to my cousin. We do 
not compare old women to pretty little sparrows, and express 
a wish to find a resting-place near them." 

" Phewgh ! " ejaculated the boy. " You have been making 
fun of me. Do you call that treating a stranger hospitably?" 

" It is not so bad as our firing cucumbers at Oto," said his 
brother. " I think it is a capital joke." 

" You don't catch Fitz Jewett quoting poems any more," he 
growled. "Though it may be a Japanese fashion, I won't 
adopt it. Mrs. Beeswax will have many a laugh at my 
expense." 

The boys were summoned to a late dinner, served in a 
fashion termed san-no-zen (three tables), from the fact of each 
guest being provided with that number of zen. This is con- 
sidered a mark of great respect to visitors and friends, and is 
only used on extraordinary occasions. 

The meal consisted of three courses, at each of which soup 
was served. The solids comprised broiled and boiled fish, raw 



202 



YOUNG AMERICANS IN JAPAN. 



carp, cut into thread-like shreds, various kinds of vegetables 
and pickles, and a dish composed of boiled quail, cut into 
cubes and smothered in a yellowish sauce. 

Each table contained eight or ten bov^ls of food, and the 

delicacies v^ere thoroughly 
cooked and daintily served. 

Every one ate with chop- 
sticks and heartily enjoyed the 
meal. 

Tea, rice, and wine were 
served with each course, and 
the attendants 
came and went 
like waiters at a 
restaurant. 

When the re- 
past was over, 
Mr. Nambo con- 
ducted the guests 
into his study, a 
handsomely dec- 
orated room, containing many choice kakemono (hanging 
pictures) and some oil-paintings. 

"What is that old gentleman supposed to be doing?" asked 
Fitz, pointing to a picture representing a noble, in flowing 
robes and curiously shaped head-dress, belaboring another of 
his rank with a paper pillow. 

" That is a most interesting story," replied Mr. Nambo. 
" Years ago there lived in Ize a noble who was a great purist, 
and would never permit any one to use vulgar or incorrect 
words in his presence. One day, a young Mioble was sent to 
inform him that he was shortly to be advanced in rank. In 
making the announcement the messenger pronounced the word 




THE INDIGNANT NOBLE. 



TOKIO. 203 

advance in a manner that might either be understood to 
mean promotion or punishment, whereupon the purist seized 
his pillow, and grasping the offender by the back of the neck, 
forced him to the floor, and beat him severely, crying: 'I am 
to be punished, am I? Take that! In future you will know 
better than to assassinate our honorable language.' " 

" He could not understand a joke," said Fitz. 

" Our teachers reverence his memory," observed Mr. Nambo. 
*^We do not approve of taking liberties with time-honored 
words. I think he did quite right. What do you say, Johnnie 
Sama?" 

Johnnie eyed the picture, and replied in a musing tone, — 

" If I had been the messenger, I would have sued him for 
assault and battery and got heavy damages. I think he must 
have been crazy. If we punished people for making puns, our 
prisons would be full." 

"John! " sternly ejaculated his father. 

" It is true, sir," was the innocent reply. " You have told 
us so lots of times." 

The Professor pursed his lips, and turning to an oil-painting 
representing two murderous-looking individuals, waiting, 
sword in hand, in a dark corner, asked, — 

" Pray, who were those ? " 

"Ah!" smilingly answered their host, sucking in his 
"breath, " that was a present from a good friend of mine, an 
English artist, who understood and admired Tamato Damashi. 
It represents the last of our ronin (wave-men — loyal retainers 
who quitted their clan to avenge the wrongs of their lord). 
Our daimio was insulted by a brother-noble, and those gallant 
samurai avenged him." 

" They look like cutthroats," murmured Fitz. 

The gentleman smiled, bowed, and catching the sound of 
the words, replied, — 



204 YOUNG AMERICANS IN JAPAN. 

" Pardon me, they did not do that; they met him on his way 
from the Shogun's castle and took his head, which they 
presented to our chief on a sa?nbo (stand of white wood). 
After performing the loyal deed, they committed hari-Mri 
(a form of suicide)." 

Mrs. Jewett, who was horrified, glanced at her husband; 
but Sallie, who had listened with the greatest interest, 
said, — 

" I understand, sir; they were great heroes, like the immor- 
tal Forty-seven." 

"Daughter," murmured her mother, "what do you mean .f^" 

Oto came to the rescue, remarking, — 

"All that sort of thing is now abolished. Our nobles no 
longer have armed retainers to avenge their quarrels, but go to 
law like Americans. Those ronin only performed what they 
considered to be a sacred duty, and must not be confounded 
with ordinary assassins." 

"Why did they wear baskets on their heads?" asked Fitz. 

" To conceal their features," replied Oto. " I remember 
when the streets of Yedo (Tokio) swarmed with men wearing 
such hats." 

" I have read of them," said Sallie. " I think they were 
just splendid." 

"Daughter!" once more whispered her mother. 

"Well, Roninism is a thing of the past," returned Oto. 
" My father values that picture because it represents Tamato 
Damashi, fidelity to the chief." 

" Yes, yes," sighed their host. " Those were true samurai. 
They died like heroes." 

"Who are these men in armor?" inquired Fitz, pointing to 
a large painting over the tokonoma. 

" Ah ! " exclaimed Mr. Nambo, bowing respectfully and 
sucking in his breath as he advanced. " This is a picture of 



2o6 



YOUNG AMERICANS IN JAPAN. 



my old lord and his chief warriors. I am the person who is 
holding a bow." 

" I don't think the artist flattered you any, sir," said Fitz. 




RONINS IN AMBUSH. 



"I wore a metal mask," was the quiet reply. "Ah! those 
were the times. Now our beloved chie^ has lost his title and 



wears foreign garments." 



"They must feel more comfortable than those tin suits," 



TOKIO. 



207 



said the irrepressible. " Why has he a paper duster in his 
hand? " 

"That was his gen- 
eral's baton," proudly 
answered Mr. Nam- 
bo. "Helas! how he 
has been overcome 
by misfortunes!" 

"Who is this 
gentleman?" de- 
ma n d e d the boy, 
indicating a picture 
of a man in armor. 

"That was a loyal 
and brave soldier of 
our clan, who fell in 
one of the first en- 
gagements of the late 
war," Avas the 
answer. "He could 
use his sword like a 
samurai, and run 
like a deer. I do not 



know what he would :^ #%: 
have done had 
lived to see the ;^ 
changes that have r^ 
occurred in the last 
few years." 

"He might have 
run a jin-riki-sha^"* 
suggested Fitz. 

"Hush!" breathed his mother. 




A SOLDIER OF OLD JAPAN. 



208 



YOUNG AMERICANS IN JAPAN. 



Mr. Nambo did not hear this remark, as he was busily- 
engaged in looking at a curious painting on a kakemono. It 
represented a foreign-built ship, flying Japanese flags, and 
decorated with various insignia; while above, in the clouds, 
were extraordinary processions, such as are sometimes seen 
in our allegorical pictures. 

" This," he said, " is a very great curiosity. It was painted 
by an artist in the service of the late Shogun. I picked it up 
very cheaply in a shop where they sell second-hand furniture." 




AN ALLEGORICAL PICTURE. 

"What is it all about? " asked Fitz. 

" It represents the first trip made by the Shogun in a foreign- 
built steamer. You will observe that the after-part of the ship 
is enclosed w^ith screens bearing the Tokugawa crest. In the 
clouds, on the right, sits the Shogun, on horseback, guarded by 
the principal gods, and before him goes a Tengu to drive away 
the evil spirits." 

" What are those foxes doing on the left? " inquired 
Johnnie. 

" Those are the guardians of Tokio, dressed as soldiers, and 
carrying gohei^'' said Mr. Nambo. " The artist put them in 



TOKIO. 



209 



for the same reason that American painters depict your god of 
Victory in their historical works. This is a pictorial poem. 
The designer gave his imagination full play. I keep it more to 
remind me of the past than for its artistic merits." 

Near the painting was a long scroll, on which was sketched 
a procession of men clothed in foreign uniforms. 

"What is that?" asked Sallie. 

Mr. Nambo smiled, and bowed repeatedly, then said, — 

"That represents the landing of the first embassy from 
England. It was drawn by a 3^oung artist of Nagasaki, but is 
not quite correct in some of its details. He only had a passing 




A JAPANESE CARICATURE. 

glimpse of them as they marched b}^ his house, and was obliged 
to copy the hats and banner from old pictures." 

"It is very comical," remarked the Professor. "I wonder 
where he obtained that idea of the British flag?" 

" From the Chinese," answered their host. " In those days 
our uneducated countrymen termed all foreigners Chinese." 

Oto laughed, and said, — 

" The Americans often confuse us with the people of that 
nation. There was a restaurant-keeper in Boston, who, when- 
ever I visited his place, always asked me how my laundry was 
doing. One day, holding up a table-napkin, he inquired how 
much a dozen I charged to wash those articles." 

"Didn't you get angry?" demanded Johnnie. 

" No," was the good-humored reply. " He meant well. I 



2IO YOUNG AMERICANS IN JAPAN. 

merely mentioned the circumstance to show that we are not 
the only people who misunderstand the nationality of our 
visitors." 

" He must have been a Dutchman," muttered Fitz. 

" He was," quietly returned Oto. " I never found a genuine 
American who mistook me for a Chinese." 

'^^ Why are those men carrying chairs behind the Envoy," 
inquired Sallie. 

" That was very amusing," said Mr. Nambo. " The Envoy 
was determined he would not squat on the floor, in Japanese 
fashion, so had two gorgeous chairs carried by his servants. 
Of course our people made a great deal of fun about it." 

"What did his officers do?" asked Johnnie. 

"We provided them with camp-stools. There was no 
occasion for the Envoy to bring his own seats with him. He 
was a very pompous man, and made himself obnoxious to our 
officials. I am told that whenever they refused to agree to his 
propositions, he used to get red in the face, and say to the 
interpreter: ^Tell them if they don't come to my terms within 
twenty-four hours, I'll blow their country out of existence.' " 

He related a number of amusing anecdotes about the first 
arrival of foreigners in Japan, and in many ways showed that, 
though he now professed to be a firm admirer of the new order 
of things, in his heart he revered the old. 

That evening, as the visitors were proceeding to their roomsy 
Oto said to the Professor, — 

" I fear you do not understand my father when he speaks so 
enthusiastically about the past, and refers in glowing terms to 
the actions of the Ronin oi his clan. Our daimio was, and is, 
in every sense, a noble man. A few years ago nobody con- 
sidered Roninism to be a crime. My father is gentle and 
humane, and would not give pain to any one." 

"We perfectly comprehend his feMings, and admire his 



TOKIO. 2 I I 

loyalty to his chief," replied the Professor. "It Is wonderful 
that he and men like him ever consented to put aside their 
swords." 

" He did it at the command of our lord," said Oto. " I 
remember the day when our daimio assembled the samurai 
of the clan, and read the decree of the Mikado (emperor), 
commanding him to renounce his title and estates, and to retire 
into private life. He said : ' I ask you to transfer your 
allegiance to your rightful sovereign, and to serve him as 
faithfully as you have done me.' I am so glad you so thor- 
oughly appreciate my parent." 

After the boys had retired to their rooms, Fitz said to their 
companion, — 

" How did that noble insult your lord ? " 

" In the performance of a solemn ceremony," said Oto. " I 
would prefer not to talk about the matter." 

" Did he turn up his nose at him ? " queried the Irrepressible. 

" No," said Oto. " Go to sleep." 

Fitz remained quiet for about an hour, then began to turn 
in his bed, and groan as though suffering acute pain. 

Oto, fearing his friend was sick, rose, and entering the 
chamber, said In a kindly tone, — 

** What is the matter, old fellow ? " 

" I can't sleep," moaned Fitz. " I wish you would answer 
that question I asked you. I am just dying to know, and If you 
do not tell me I shan't close my eyes all night." 

" I know the reason," said Johnnie, coming to Oto's rescue. 

" Then why don't you tell me ? " snapped Fitz, assuming an 
erect position. " I believe you like to torment a fellow, Johnnie 
Jewett." 

His brother laughed sarcastically, and replied, — 

" No doubt the lord's enemy asked an impudent question, 
and was punished for his pains." 



212 YOUNG AMERICANS IN JAPAN. 

"Yes," said Oto, "it was something of that kind. I am 
afraid if Fitz had lived in the olden times he would have been 
served like Awoyama-Tshihawa-Sakounisogen-Tdzoumi-no- 
Kami." 

"Won't you translate that to me?" drowsily murmured 
Fitz, sinking backward. " Heigho ! " 

"Go to sleep, go to sleep," said Oto. "If you don't, I will 
fetch old Mitsu-ro, and make her give you a cup of medicine." 

This threat took effect, and in a few moments the tongue 
of the merry boy had ceased to wag. 



SCENES IN THE CAPITAL. 213 



CHAPTER XII. 

SCENES IN THE CAPITAL. 

What are those strangly-clad beings 

Who move quickly from one spot of interest to another 

Like butterflies flitting from flower to flower ? 

These are Americans. 

They are as restless as the ocean. 

In one day they will learn more of a city 

Than an inhabitant will in a year. 

Are they not extraordinary persons ? — Japanese Poem. 

FOR the first few days after their arrival in Tokio, the 
travellers rested, and enjoyed the tranquil delights of a 
Japanese house. 

One morning, Mrs. Jew^ett complained of the toothache, 
on hearing of v^hich Mrs. Nambo entered her guest's room, and 
having condoled with her, gravely observed, — 

"Why do you not stain your teeth? It is a sure cure for 
your trouble. Let me bring my dye-pot and brush, and apply 
the mixture. All our married ladies use it." 

" No, thank you," replied Mrs. Jewett. " My husband 
would be shocked if I did such a thing. I notice, you also 
shave off your eyebrows." 

"Yes," was the quiet response; "we used to shave our 
children's heads and eyebrows, but now the custom is going 
out of fashion. Ah! our young women are very foolish, they 
neglect their personal appearance and follow your custom. No 
wonder you have to employ an army of dentists." 

She opened her mouth, and exhibited her teeth, which were 
as black as polished "^'-'"-"^ 



214 YOUNG AMERICANS IN JAPAN. 

As they were chatting they heard a cry outside, and 
presently Mitsu-ro entered, alternately beating her forehead, 
and clasping her hands palm to palm, as though in great agony 
of mind. 

"What is the matter?" inquired her mistress. 

"Oh!" moaned the old lady, " Fitz San has killed the 
servant of Inari Sama (the god-fox) ; the one that used to live 
under my room." 

"What does she mean? " asked Mrs. Jew^ett. 

" The god-fox ! the god-fox ! " sobbed Mitsu-ro. " His poor 
servant v^as only amusing himself w^ith a chicken when your 
son murdered him with a stone. Some dreadful misfortune 
will surely overtake us! The poor servant! " 

" May I come in, mother?" said the boy from the veranda. 

"Yes, Fitz. What have you been doing?" 

Fitz and Johnnie entered, and the former said, — 

" We went out with Oto to feed the chicks, and he left us 
in order to procure some more rice. During his absence a fox 
leaped over the fence and seized a chicken, so I picked up a 
stone and knocked it over." 

" It was the servant of our god-fox," sobbed Mitsu-ro. 

" I am sorry," he frankly answered. " I did not know that 
you worshipped the creatures." 

Mrs. Nambo comforted the old lady, and sent her out of 
the room; then whispered, as though afraid of being over- 
heard, — 

" She is very ignorant and superstitious. The fox is the 
local deity of Tokio, and is worshipped by the common people, 
who believe, if the animal puts a wisp of straw or a few ears 
of rice on its head, it can change itself into a human being. 
Of course we do not credit such nonsense. I wish our servants 
were like yours. Oto says your domestics have no such silly 
ideas." ^ 



SCENES IN THE CAPITAL. 215 

*' I am not so certain about that," replied Mrs. Jewett. " I 
have had help who were quite as superstitious as your old nurse. 
Fitz, you must not kill another fox." 

" Certainly I will not, mother," he replied. " I am sorry I 
hurt the old lady's feelings," 

When Oto heard of this he smiled, and said, — 

" My foster-mother little knows that I have killed dozens of 
her pets. In my younger days I used to trap them in a double 
basket containing a live chicken. They are a perfect pest." 

"Are they a worse nuisance than our neighbor's cats?" 
asked Johnnie. 

" Well, I don't know," was the merry reply. " Though 
they steal everything they can carry off, they do not keep 
people awake all night." 

" Why did your fellow-citizens choose a fox as their local 
deity?" demanded Fitz. 

" We regard those creatures as your people do fairies," 
answered Oto. " Our ignorant classes believe in them, and 
deem them gods. It is said a fox led the original founder of 
Yedo to the site of the city. I'm glad Fitz killed the animal. 
The betto (groom) tells me it has stolen lots of my father's 
chickens. Come, boys, would you like to visit the great fish- 
market near the Nippon Bashi ? " 

They answered in the affirmative, and in a few moments 
entered '&i^\x jin-rihi-sha, and started for their destination. 

As they rode down the avenue they met Izakura, Mr. 
Nambo's cook, who had just returned from marketing. His 
head was enveloped in a towel, and he carried in one hand a 
basket in which were some eggs, and in the other a bunch of 
bamboo fibre, used to clean dishes. 

Bowing to his young master, he said, — 

"The market is alive with customers. Go in by the north 
entrance, and take your friends to the main square, where the 



2l6 



YOUNG AMERICANS IN JAPAN. 



live fish are arriving from the bay. The honorable gentlemen 
will be much astonished. I have secured some beef and' 
mutton for you, Mr. Oto." 

He bowed and went off toward the 
kitchen, followed by a number of coolies 
carrying provisions. 

"Izakura thinks it is dreadfully barbarous 
for me to eat meat," said their friend. " But 
he is a good fellow and an excellent cook." 
Away they went down the avenue, the 
jin-riki-sha men racing one another, and 
seeming to enjoy the exercise. 

As they were crossing a small bridge, 
they were compelled to halt until a drove 
of oxen had passed. While thus delayed, 
Johnnie asked Oto why the structure above 
them was furnished with water-gates. 

" That is a remnant of the old times," 
he answered. "Those gates were closed 
every night to prevent thieves from passing the canals. Now 
the police patrol the water-courses, and the gates are gradually 
going to decay." 

After a pleasant ride they arrived at the entrance to the 
fish-market, and, dismissing their jin-riki-sha^ threaded their 
way among the noisy crowd. 

The open space was occupied by peddlers who shouted the 
names of their wares, and urged the visitors to buy; and the 
sheds surrounding it were filled with wholesale dealers and 
auctioneers. 

Men carrying enormous fish on their bare shoulders, coolies 
staggering along under the weight of big sharks suspended 
from bamboo bearing-sticks, and nude runners laden with live 
carp that did not make any show of resistance, jostled each 




IZAKURA. 



.SCENES IN THE CAPITAL. 217 

Other, and yelled vociferously. Oto told his companions that 
the fishermen and persons who unloaded the boats were 
permitted to work en deshabille. 

The place was thronged with purchasers, a few of whom 
were women of the lower class. 

The boys approached a platform on which were heaped 
dolphin, shark, halibut, jElounders„ cod, conger-eels, and other 
large fish, flanked with tubs containing oysters, mussels, clams, 
sea-eggs, and a number of turtle, which the proprietor was 
auctioning in a very novel manner. 

Taking an enormous skate by a string passed through its 
gills, he raised it a little, and shouted, — 

" Hundred sen ! hundred ! ninety-nine ! ninety-eight ! 
ninety-seven ! " 

When he reached a figure that suited his customers, the 
latter held up their hands, doubling all but two fingers. Those 
who were anxious to buy, but who were awaiting a lower 
price, held up their hands, fingers down. 

From his stall tliey went to a side street, where the women 
were making purchases. Fitz counted over seventy varieties 
of fish on exhibition, among them being whale and shark. 
This number did not include the shell species, of which they 
noticed over twenty sorts. 

Every part of some kinds, such as cod, is eaten, even the 
gills and intestines; the latter being made into a very delicate 
tripe, much esteemed by epicures. 

The proprietors of the stalls sat on raised platforms in the 
rear of their wares, watching their employes and entering sales 
in their books. 

On one stall the boys saw many bushels o{ echini (sea- 
urchins, or sea-eggs). These appeared to be in great demand. 
Oto informed them that only a portion of this fish was used for 
food, the rest being considered poisonous. 



2l8 YOUNG AMERICANS IN JAPAN. 

Among the curiosities of the market were party-colored fish, 
brilliant in red, blue, and gold tints, sold alive in glass and 
porcelain jars. These beautiful creatures capture flies by 
spouting water over them. The boys also saw any quantity 
of tiger-marked sea-porcupines and zebra-soles, both of which 
are eaten by the natives. 

While they were watching the scene, the marketmen 
continued to arrive with enormous fishes, which were dumped 
upon mats, placed on the ground, and cut up with long, strong 
knives. 

After minutely inspecting the fresh-fish department, the 
lads visited the side streets, devoted to the sale of the dried 
sorts, — among these being oysters, shrunk out of all shape, 
mussels, sardines, clams, shrimps, cod, whale, and shark. 

On the outskirts of the market were many shops and open 
stalls, devoted to the preparation and sale of cuttle-fish. 

The boys halted before a stand where a man was frying the 
delicacy and chatting to a coolie, who was waiting for a load. 
The vender seeing Oto, said, — 

" Honorable sir, do you wish to buy some tender slices? I 
have purchased a cuttle weighing a hundred pounds, and can 
furnish you with any part of the fish, either fresh or cooked." 

"Do you eat those things? " asked Fitz. 

"Eat them! " cried the man, "why, they are much sought 
after and are most delicate in flavor." 

"I thought they lived on human beings," said Johnnie. 

"Yeh!" shouted the fellow. "So do sharks, shrimps, cod, 
and all fishes, when they get a chance. You foreigners eat 
cows and drink milk, yet turn up your noses at such luxuries as 
a tender cuttle-fish. Yeh ! " 

"Come away," said Oto; "he is a rude^an." 

They quitted the market, and visited the quarter devoted to 
the slaughter of cattle. As they approached the spot, they saw 



220 



YOUNG AMERICANS IN JAPAN. 



carts laden with baskets of charcoal and drawn by oxen, which 
Oto said were, like the fuel, brought in for sale. 

A pilgrim passed them, ringing his bell, and they 
noticed some lightly-dressed coolies carrying boxes con- 
taining knives. 

" Those are the butchers," said their friend. " They are 
permitted to go about the markets in that manner." 




THE VENDERS OF CUTTLE-FISH. 



Women were driving in beeves, and the stalls were rapidly 
being filled with water-buffaloes and foreign cattle. 

The boys crossed a plank bridge, and entered a large 
enclosure filled with covered pens, containing many hundred 
head of cattle. ^ 

Here they were met by an official, who, seeing the young 
Americans, said, — 



SCENES IN THE CAPITAL. 



221 



"What do you think of our show? We slaughtered a 
thousand oxen and three hundred sheep last week, and have 
orders for more meat than we can supply. We are now 
beginning to kill pigs, and if all our people take to eating 
animal food, shall have to enlarge our premises." 

"Where does your supply come from?" asked Fitz. 

" From the government stock-farm, from Shanghai and 





THE CATTLE-MARKET. 



Yezo," answered the man. " Those water-buffaloes are from 
the adjoining country. When the farmers have worked them 
almost to death, they bring them here with a load of wood, 
which we buy with the cattle." 

" Isn't their flesh almost as tough as their hides?" demanded 
Fitz. 

"Well, yes," replied their informant. "It is not very 



222 YOUNG AMERICANS IN JAPAN. 

tender. The government buys it for the army, navy, and 
public institutions." 

"Yes," laughingly observed Oto. "That is the sort of 
tenderloin they gave us at the Imperial College." 

"Where are your meat stores?" 

"We only kill the animals for the retail dealers. The 
slaughtering is done at night, and the carcasses and refuse are 
removed by daylight." 

After the boys had satisfied their curiosity, they sauntered 
into a neighboring street, from which proceeded sounds of a 
drum and the noise of a crowd. 

" That must be the Lion of the Corea," said Oto. " When 
I was a little fellow I used to like to watch his antics." 

As they turned the corner they beheld a gigantic figure, the 
head and body of which towered above the spectators. Before 
him ran a number of boys, and behind were three musicians 
and a dozen nurse-girls, with children on their backs, who, 
like the boys, shouted, — 

"Hai, old lion!" 

" Come," said Oto., halting near one of the gateways of a 
ward division, in front of which was a large lantern, 
decorated with a tomoye (lucky character); "there is a 
school down that street, and the acrobats are sure to perform 
here." 

On came the lion, who, emerging from the crowd, advanced 
toward them, and revealed beneath his striped cloak a pair of 
grimy hands employed in beating a tambour, the lower portion 
of a human body clothed in a blue cotton robe, and a pair of 
sturdy, muscular limbs, the feet of which were protected with 
straw sandals. 

The musician with the drum beat his instrument, the flute- 
player blew until his cheeks were distended like those of a 
person suffering from the mumps, and the third player banged 



SCENES IN THE CAPITAL. 



22 l 



his tambour, and glanced at the young Americans, as though 
anticipating a good fee. 

The lion danced very much in the style of a trained bear, 
raised and lowered his head-piece, — which was fixed upon a 
bamboo inserted in a socket secured to his back, — shouted, 
roared, and growled, in a manner ridiculous enough to amuse 
any one; his gestures and capers eliciting yells of approval 




THE LION OF COREA DANCING. 



from the audience, who, child-like, called him various names 
and treated him with half-timid familiarity. 

As he was jumping around and diverting them with his 
contortions, a number of lads came rushing from the side street, 
and, upon nearing him, began to shout, — 

" Hai, old lion. I hope your excellency is well! Dance 
lively, now we've come! We're the boys who have the coin. 
Kick higher; you are not half as smart as the other lion who 
came here a moon ago." 

The performer, thus adjured, redoubled his endeavors, while 



2 24 YOUNG AMERICANS IN JAPAN. 

his orchestra banged, blew, and thumped their instruments; as 
they did so, uttering shrill cries of encouragement. 

The new-comers were as full of monkey-tricks as the 
acrobat. They threw somersaults in front of him, yelled, 
pulled at his robe, and, darting at him, inflicted pinches on his 
limbs that presently roused his temper, and caused him to 
retaliate with sundry kicks, which in some instances were 
received by his followers. 

" Hai — hai — hai ! " they shouted. " Ha-yakti ! " (hurry 
up.) 

The lion replied by lowering his head, pulling a string, and 
advancing with open mouth, at the same tim^ uttering most 
hideous noises. However, the children did not appear to mind 
his demonstration, and continued to yell, scream, and amuse 
themselves as before. 

In the midst of this fun, a bald-headed teacher, carrying in 
his left hand a paper duster, suddenly emerged from a building 
on the side street, and called angrily to the boys, saying, — 

"What means this? Are you not aware it is the hour of 
study?" 

At the sound of their instructor's voice the urchins stopped 
their fun, and assuming a respectful demeanor, prepared to 
retire, though the Americans noticed that none of them went 
off without giving the lion a few sen. 

" There is nothing small or mean about the average 
Japanese boy," said Fitz. " When he has been amused by a 
performer, he pays his money like a little man." 

As the scholars were making off, their master said to the 
lion, who was resting from his labor, — 

" You ought to have more sense than to keep children from 
their studies. If this sort of thing is repeated, I shall report 
the matter to the authorities." 

"Most excellent teacher," politely replied the man, "you 



SCENES IN THE CAPITAL. 225 

do US great injustice. We had no idea we were detaining your 
scholars." 

" Very well; do not repeat the offence," grumbled the pre- 
ceptor." " I will overlook your fault this time." 

" I hope your excellency will have good health," said the 
performer. " Your pupils are perfect young gentlemen." 

After the old fellow was out of hearing, the orchestra 
recommenced its din, and the lion indulged in a pantomimic 
dance expressive of defiance, which appeared to afford the 
bystanders the greatest amusement, and elicited shouts of 
laughter from some people who were watching him from the 
porch of a neighboring building. On seeing them, he once 
more arranged the bamboo in the socket secured to his back, 
took the string of his tambour between his teeth, and pulling 
down his lion's robe, grasped his sticks, and began to posture 
and drum as before, while his assistants moved among the 
crowd, and collected money on their fans. 

Although, at first glance, he appeared to caper at his own 
sweet will, the boys soon discovered that he performed certain 
steps, which were methodically grotesque, clumsy, coarse, and, 
no doubt, of ancient origin. 

The lion danced until his patrons refused to contribute 
another coin, upon discovering which he partly removed his 
make-up, and, with his companions, squatted near the big 
lantern, where the young Americans had a good opportunity 
to examine his features. He was probably between thirty and 
forty years old, and was muscular and sturdy. His lion-skin 
was made of paper and hemp, his mask of papier-mache 
painted and gilded, and his mane of long strips of tough paper, 
colored yellow and brown. He sat on the ground, sucking at 
his tiny-bowled brass pipe, and perspiring freely; before him 
were his tambour and bamboo-sticks. As the boys approached 
he glanced up, and, blinking his bilious-looking eyes, said, — 



226 



YOUNG AMERICANS IN JAPAN. 




i I I I ' 
M kj'J A 

Jill 



" I hope your excellencies have approved of my humble 
performance? " 

They replied that they had been much entertained; and 
after questioning him awhile, he said, — 

" How came I in 

this business? Ah,"~ 

that is a long story. 

My parents died when 

I was about as big as 

f"S^^/jf.' H my drum, and left me 

,!iii!) -,iij; : to the tender mercy 

"i^fe- of a relative, by 

3^ whom I was sold to 

an acrobat. The lat- 

THE LION REFRESHING HIMSELF. ^^^ KlCkea mC mtO 

shape, and took me 
everywhere, training myself and two other miserable orphans as 
he would have done three apes. When he died I started busi- 
ness as a Lion of the Corea, and " — laughing — " here I am! '^ 

" How much do you make a day? " asked Fitz. 

"Ah! now you puzzle me," he merrily replied. "Some- 
times we collect quite a sum, at others only earn our fish and 
rice, and, if luck is against us, not even our salt. We are 
always fortunate when we meet your foreign excellencies, who 
pay us like noblemen." 

After this strong hint, there was nothing for the strangers 
but to open their purses and give him a gratuity. This brought 
the entire party to their feet, and set them capering and drum- 
ming; whereupon Oto and his friends made off, leaving the 
crowd to enjoy the result of their liberality. 

" Come," said Oto, " I know a first-class French restaurant 
near here, — suppose we have breakfast^ Our folks have taken 
theirs long ago." 



SCENES IN THE CAPITAL. 22/ 

They followed him, and found themselves in an elegantly 
furnished saloon, the walls of which were adorned with foreign 
paintings and engravings. 

" There are many such places in Tokio," remarked Oto. 
" Please order what you like." 

When the repast was finished, and the bill brought, he paid 
the amount, seven dollars; noticing which, Johnnie said, — 

"We could have breakfasted in a Japanese restaurant for 
fifty sen each, and had a better meal. After this we will not 
patronize foreign establishments." 

Oto laughed, and said, — 

"You are right. I know it is foolish to pay a foreigner 
seven dollars for what one of our people can supply for a 
dollar and a half." 

Johnnie and Fitz insisted on sharing the expense, after 
which they quitted the place, and renewed their rambles, 
presently finding themselves once more in the vicinity of the 
Nippon Bashi. Hearing the murmur of a crowd and the 
"ping, ping" of a samisen (guitar), they followed the sound, 
and soon arrived at an open space where four streets met, in 
which they beheld a number of acrobats and jugglers perform- 
ing to an admiring audience. 

On their left was a clog-maker staining the wooden articles 
with a broad, flat brush, which he dipped in a black liquid; as 
he did so, mingling his shouts of approval with those of the 
other spectators. 

The space chosen was near a ward-gate, right in the centre 
of the traffic; and on the left were a range of open-fronted 
stores, occupied by toy-makers, clock-manufacturers, tailors, 
and pipe-makers, who worked quite calmly, and did not appear 
to notice the exhibitors: a sword-juggler, two acrobats, and a 
shrill-voiced dame, who played the samisen, and encouraged 
the artists with her words and gestures. 



228 



YOUNG AMERICANS IN JAPAN. 



Notwithstanding the presence of ladies, the acrobats had 
reduced their costume to c/is of primitive simplicity — in fact, 
to mere harness. 

After a few preliminaries, one of the men thrust a naked" 
sword down his throat, and invited the spectators to feel the 
point under the skin below his ribs. This appeared to greatly 
interest the servant-girls and children, who were loud in their 
exclamations of wonder and approval. He advanced with 




STREET ACROBATS. 



extended hands, and requested Fitz to satisfy himself that he 
had swallowed the weapon ; then he drew the blade from his 
throat and refreshed himself with a cup of tea. In reply to the 
boy's questions, he stated his age was thirty, and that he 
belonged to the province of Yamato. He declined to repeat 
the performance, or to permit them to closely examine the 
sword, saying he had a sore throat, ai\d it was not respectful to 
exhibit a naked weapon. 



SCENES IN THE CAPITAL. 229 

While the young Americans were chatting with him, his 
companions had set up a stick, on which they vertically bal- 
anced two hoops and a porcelain bottle. They also produced 
a long, bottomless basket, made of split bamboo, such as is 
used for carrying wild animals to market. This they set on 
two low horses of wood, like a saw-buck. 

The sword-swallower excused himself, and, directing their 
attention to his associates, retired, when they saw one of the 
acrobats, whose head was bound with a towel, and who carried 
a pipe and tobacco-pouch thrust in his girdle, step back in the 
direction of thegate. Lowering his head, he ran toward the 
hoops, and springing from the ground, darted through them 
without disturbing the bottle, hoops, or stick on which the 
latter stood. 

After this the third man, who was even more simply clothed 
than his comrades, backed among the crowd, and, at a signal 
from his wife, ran forward and darted through the basket with- 
out touching it in any wa}^ He landed upon his hands, threw 
a somersault, and, dropping upon his knees, bowed respect- 
fully to the young Americans, crying, — 

"A little encouragement, your excellencies! Mine is very 
hard work ! " 

The boys rewarded him; then his wife placed three lighted 
candles in the basket, and he repeated his jump in the same 
dexterous manner. 

The crowd soon became so dense that the strangers were 
compelled to quit the spot, and, entering jin-riki-sha^ were 
conveyed home, where they found their parents discussing a 
visit to the famous temple of Asakusa. 

"The chrysanthemums are in full bloom," said Mrs. Nambo. 
*^ I think if the boys are not too tired we will start after the 
mid-day meal. Asakusa is only a short distance, and we can 
walk there." 



230 YOUNG AMERICANS IN JAPAN. 

About two o'clock the Professor and his family, Mr. and 
Mrs. Nambo, Oto and O-Kiku started for the world-renowned 
temple. 

" Now, Fitz," whispered Mrs. Jewett, " try and keep your 
thoughts to yourself. Though our friends take your remarks 
very kindly, I am sure they must sometimes feel hurt by 
them." 

" I'll try," he answered. 



THE TEMPLE OF KUWANNON AT ASAKUSA. 23 1 



CHAPTER XIII. 

THE TEMPLE OF KUWANNON AT ASAKUSA, 

From January to December 

Asakusa contains ten thousand delights. 

As the months return we behold 

The camellia, plum-blossom, cherry-bloom, 

Peony, lotus, azalea, and chrysanthemum, 

And always the lovely evergreens. 

Let us go to Asakusa 

To pray to Kuwannon, and to see the flowers. 

Japanese Poem. 

MRS. NAMBO quoted the foregoing to Mrs. Jewett as they 
walked toward their destination, adding gently, — 
"I suppose you will not pray to Kuwannon.^ " 
Before the lady could reply, Fitz came to her rescue, 
saying, — 

" Mother won't, but I don't mind firing a few shots." 
"Fitz, Fitz," she whispered, "remember what you prom- 
ised;" then, turning to her hostess, said, "You all appear to 
be fond of poetry. Who was Kuwannon? Will you tell me 
something about him?" 

" Kuwannon is a goddess," replied Mrs. Nambo, who was 
always ready to impart information about her faith. " She was 
born in China nearly three thousand years ago. Her father 
desired her to marry, and on her refusing ordered her to be 
decapitated. The sword of the executioner shivered across 
her neck, and did not harm her, so she was condemned to be 
smothered. When her spirit reached the abode of the unhappy, 
its presence rendered the place so enjoyable and beautiful that 
Ema placed her on a lotus-flower, and sent her back to earth 



232 YOUNG AMERICANS IN JAPAN. 

and life. Soon after Kuwannon's return her father fell sick, 
"whereupon she fed him with the flesh of her arms. The 
authorities gave orders for a statue to be erected to her, but the 
sculptor, instead of merely representing her with two arms, 
gave her a thousand." 

"She must look like a forty-bladed penknife," muttered Fitz. 

His mother froM^ned, and Mrs. Nambo continued, — 

" For many centuries there was no temple to her in Tokio; 
however, one day a Ronin noble, who, in order to earn his rice, 
was reduced to fish in the Sumida River, was hauling in his 
net, when he found in it only a small figure of Kuwannon, which 
he returned to the stream. He repeated his cast in a number 
of places, and always drew in the same figure. Struck by this 
singular occurrence, he quitted fishing, and taking the goddess 
to a shrine that stood near the present temple, deposited it, and 
from that grew the mighty fabric we now call the Temple of 
Kuwannon." 

"What became of the lone fisherman?" inquired Johnnie. 

" He renounced his occupation, turned bozUy and died a 
saint," replied their informant. 

" I reckon it paid him better than fishing," observed Fitz to 
his sister, in a low tone. 

Sallie was about to repl}^, when they entered the main 
street, and beheld the principal gateway of the temple grounds. 

The crowd was a sight in itself, and was so dense that the 
party had great difficulty in keeping together. Imperial soldiers 
and sailors in foreign uniforms, gentlemen and ladies in full 
national dress, children, nurses, beggars, showmen, peddlers, 
and foreigners, were moving to and fro; the greater number, 
like the Jewetts, being bound for the temple. 

On the right was the Sumada I^iver, spanned by a stone 
structure, termed the Adzuma Bridge, which was black with 
human beings. 



THE TEMPLE OF KUWANNON AT ASAKUSA. 233 

The travellers halted at a wayside restaurant, opposite the 
main entrance, and, as they sipped their tea, watched the 
animated scene. 

The air was full of strange odors and noises, above which 
rose the cries of peddlers who squatted in groups under the 
trees, or mingled with the spectators. 

On the right, a blind beggar with a monkey clinging to his 
back, was making his way toward the main avenue, followed 
by a number of boys, who shouted, — 

^^ S-aru-hito ! s-aru-hitol'''' (Monkey-man! monkey-man!) 

One youth, bolder than the rest, attempted to capture the 
animal by placing a hoop, secured to a stick, over its head, 
whereupon the monkey sprang at his tormentor and bit him 
several times, then dropped to the ground, and, scampering after 
his master, soon regained his old position. 

Venders were selling miniature fireworks, which they ignited 
on the palms of their hands, or while secured by a string to 
their arms, these dangerous toys appearing greatly to delight 
the children. 

Nearly all the salesmen on the sidewalks exhibited adver- 
tisements, and were provided with short bamboos, which they 
used to punish pilferers. 

Some of the dealers sold straw to3^s, made in the shape of 
tortoises and animals; others, pipes for blowing soap-bubbles; 
and a number vended cakes and told fortunes; the seers being 
provided with a marionnette, which they moved by strings at- 
tached to their toes. 

The roadway was watered by men carrying large buckets 
suspended from long poles; the bottoms of the vessels being 
finely perforated, so as to permit the liquid to escape freely. 
These useful laborers wore very scanty raiment, and were not 
supposed to go outside the temple grounds. 

" Come," said Mr. Nambo, as his friends rose to quit the 



2 34 



YOUNG AMERICANS IN JAPAN. 



restaurant. '^ We will first view the shows, then visit the tem- 
ple, and afterwards inspect the flowers." 

" We are at your disposal," replied the Professor. " You 
lead, and we will follow." 

By that time the mass of people had passed through the 
gateway, and the travellers were enabled to keep tolerably close 
together. 

" Say," cried Johnnie, pointing to a conjurer performing 
before a little booth on which were displayed some apparatus, 
" let us see what he is going to do." 




THE SWORD TRICK. {From a Japanese Picture.') 

The man placed three sambo, one on top of the other, 
thrust his toes into a pair of high clogs, and taking a long 
sword, stepped on to the summit of the pile; and proceeded to 
spin a top on the edge of the weapon. He next ran a fan up 
and down the blade, threw it into the air, and caught it on the 
point, finally, tossing it with a peculiar jerk, slashed at it as it 
descended, and divided the article into two fragments, which 
changed into birds and were blown away, 

Fitz secured one of the pieces, andfo^ind it was ingeniously 
constructed of bamboo and paper. 



236 YOUNG AMERICANS IN JAPAN. 

After giving the man a gratuity, they passed on, and watched 
the performance of some athletes in a splendidly decorated 
booth, the front of which was enclosed with wooden posts 
about three feet high. 

There was quite a company of artists in this exhibition, and 
it was evidently one of the features of the place. 

Patrons, who paid an extra fee, were permitted to enter a 
space railed off from the crowd. 

The troupe consisted of three men and two boys, all of 
whom appeared to be boneless. Their performances were en- 
livened by a band of three musicians, who also sang, and from 
time to time yelled encouragement to their employers. On 
seeing the foreigners, the chief acrobat, who was dressed in 
flowing robes, sprang upon the posts in front of the place, and 
performed some astounding feats, — at one time supporting his 
entire company on his shoulders. He seemed to be quite at 
his ease, and, as he balanced, fanned himself, and directed his 
assistants. 

Presently one of the men, who was clad in body-armor, 
produced a pole, to the top of which was fastened a banner. 
At a signal from their leader, one of the boys climbed the staff, 
and, resting his toes on the cross-piece, extended himself at an 
angle from it, crying, — 

" Hai ! hai ! hai ! " 

While he was hanging in this position, the other lad 
mounted a pyramid of sambo and boxes, and grasped the top 
one with his hands, then elevated his feet, and slowly lov/ered 
them until the soles rested on his shaven pate. 

"Jeminy! " cried Fitz, "he's standing on his own head! " 

At that instant the third man, who was carefully holding a 
curious, sword-like article, uttered a loud, prolonged yell, when 
the apparatus burst into a dozen pieces, -^ each fragment being 
a top in full spin. 










ACROBATS. 



2 3^ YOUNG AMERICANS IN JAPAN. 

The musicians screamed frantically, and played as though 
their lives depended upon their vigor; then the manager, drop- 
ping from his perch, bowled to the Americans and said, — 

" Honorable strangers from afar, I trust you are pleased 
w^ith our humble endeavors." 

"I have a headache," said Mrs. Jewett, as the gentlemen 
rewarded the performers. " Suppose we continue our w^alk." 

They quitted the booth, and, entering the grounds, advanced 
up a long paved avenue to the grand entrance of the temple, a 
colossal, double-roofed m6';2 (gatev/ay), painted red, nearv^hich 
were stalls for the sale of rosaries and metal idols to be worn 
in the bosom or sleeves. These were piled in heaps along 
with memorial tablets, portable shrines, sacred bells, and candle- 
sticks. 

"What are those things?" asked Johnnie, indicating the 
enormous figures on his right and left, under the gateway. 

"They are the Ni-o (two kings)," replied Mr. Nambo. 
^' The red statue, with its mouth open, represents the 2^o, male, 
or warm principle of nature. The green one, with its mouth 
firmly closed, is the In, female, or cold." 

Oto, who did not believe in the I'o and In, was anxious to 
hurry onward, but Fitz would not stir. He pretended to be 
deeply interested in the hideous images, and was about to ask 
why the female figure had its mouth so firmly closed, when his 
father said, — 

" Come, my son, you have looked at those long enough. 
We will enter the temple." 

As the lads followed the adults into the main courtyard, 
Fitz pinched Oto, and whispered, — 

" You know I am just dying to learn why that female 
figure has her mouth shut — it isn't natural. There must be 
some mystery about it, and I think it i^ mean of you not to 
tell me." 



THE TEMPLE OF KUWANNON AT ASAKUSA. 239 

" It signifies that our women know how to keep silent," was 
the response. " The In means stillness, and To noise." 

"26> also means the first person singular, does it not?" in^ 
quired Oto's tormentor. 

"Yes, yes; and it means a young boy," said Johnnie. " If 
the Japanese want a god of inquisitiveness, they ought to 
make a statue of you." 

" My ! " chuckled the irrepressible. " That's a tri-angular 
pun! To (I), To (noise), To (a youth)." 

While they were speaking, a crowd came rushing out of 
the temple, and began to swarm round the great pillars of the 
porch, noticing which, the Professor and Mr. Nambo halted, 
and the latter bade the party watch an old bozu and his two 
assistants, who had mounted a hanging-shelf, secured to the 
massive shaft by copper rods. 

The bozu had his sleeves and the bosom of his robes filled 
^th strips of paper, and his companions were provided with 
enormous f^ns. 

When the ladder by which they had ascended was re- 
moved, and the gigantic lanterns on the left of the platform had 
ceased to sway, the bozu advanced to the edge of the platform, 
and intoned, — 

^^ ]Vamu\ Amicia^ ButsuV 

Hearing these words, the mass of humanity beneath him 
knelt and bowed their heads to the ground, or rather attempted 
to do so. Then rose a sound like the murmur of an approach- 
ing storm, which quickly culminated in a cry of, — 

^^Nammiyol Namniiyol NammiyoV 

In another moment the people were again on their feet, 
yelling and extending their hands frantically towards the plat- 
form. 

The old bozUy whose calm, almost cynical face contrasted 
strongly with the excited features of his congregation, glanced 



240 YOUNG AMERICANS IN JAPAN. 

down upon them, and, thrusting his hands into the bosom of 
his robe, drew forth a package of papers, which he tossed into- 
the air. 

These documents were quickly dispersed by his attendants, 
who, by a dexterous wave of their fans, sent the strips in all 
directions. 

An exciting scene followed; men, women, and children 
struggling and screaming in their anxiety to get possession of 
the coveted documents, which v^ere supposed to confer good 
fortune upon the possessors. 

The Americans, seeing it would be some time before they 
could enter the temple, consulted with Mr. Nambo as to what 
was best to be done, and, while they were discussing the matter,. 
Fitz pointed to the gratings in front of the figures in the gate- 
w^a}^, and said to Oto, — 

" Why do people tie their old sandals to that place, and — 
sa}^, who wore those big ones?" 

"Those are offerings from convalescent persons," snapped 
Oto. " You know that as well as I do." 

"Well, but — " persisted the tease, "what sort of disease 
did they have to make them require such enormous sandals? 
They are a 3^ard long and two feet wide. And why do yonder 
old women bieat those wooden clappers?" — indicating some 
crones who were sitting near the gate, offering to pray for any one 
who would pay them a lew sen. "And, Oto, why do those 
people wash their hands and rinse their mouths at that cistern?" 

His friend did not reply. 

" Let us buy a few peas for the pigeons," said Miss Kiku, 
who was secretly amused at her cousin's annoyance. " The 
sacred birds are frightened at the noise, and have retired to- 
their nests in the roof of the porch." 

The boys walked over to some stands kept by ancient-look- 
ing dames, who sold grain for the birds. 




DISTRIBUTING CHARMS. PORCH OF THE TEMPLE. 



242 jNG AMERICANS IN JAPAN. 

^ ght a saucer of peas, and Sallie and the boys 

ir heavily; but though they scattered their offerings 

■^ liision, not a pigeon stirred. 

Awhile the distribution of charms was continued, and 
^e had become almost deafening. 
vVe had better go and see the sacred ponies," suggested 
.s. Nambo. 

They followed her to a stable on the left of the temple, and 
saw two pink-eyed, white animals, so bloated from over- 
feeding that they looked like incipient hippopotami. 

The girl in charge of the steeds urged the visitors to pur- 
chase corn with which to feed the steeds, on hearing which 
Fitz cried, — 

"Lookout!" 

The attendant gazed at him with alarm, and nervously 
demanded, — 

"What is the matter?" 

"Don't you give those ponies another g'ram,''^ he said. 

" Why not? " she anxiously inquired. ' " Honorable sir, tell 
me what 3^ou mean?" 

He looked so serious that the spectators who had arrived 
before his party, and had bought some rice for the creatures, 
stared at him in amazement, and his father demanded in 
English, — 

"What is the matter now, Fitz?" 

" I was only warning the young lady not to allow the poor 
things to take any more food," was the reply. "Just look at 
them, sir; they are so full now they can scarcely breathe. If 
the pilgrims give them another grain they'll burst." 

"Fitz, Fitz," said his mother, " those are sacred animals; 
you must not ridicule them." ^ 

When this was translated to Mr. Nambo, he laughedj and 
told the attendant, who giggled, and said, — 



THE TEMPLE OP KUWANNON AT ASAKUSA. 243 

'^ Oh, that is too comical ! " 

" Remember what you promised me, Fitz," whispered his 
mother. "You ought to try and make yourself agreeable to 
our friends." 

" Yes, ma'am," he replied. " I wasn't making fun that time, 
I can assure you. Just look at the unfortunate creatures. Mr. 
Be'rgh ought to see them." 

When the bozu had exhausted all his charms, the crowd 
re-entered the temple, and he was assisted down from his lofty 
position. 

"Now," said Mr. Nambo, "we shall have an opportunity to 
see the image of Kuwannon. Please follow me. I did not 
remember this was a festival, or we would have delayed our 
visit until to-morrow." 

The party worked their way up the copper-edged steps, 
and by dint of pushing and elbowing, contrived to enter the 
main edifice, which was densely packed with worshippers. 

Just inside the door was an enormous, bronze censer, sur- 
mounted by a sky-dog, and decorated with the twelve signs 
(hours). A pungent, bluish vapor ascended through the 
perforations in the cover, and the supply of incense w^as con- 
tinually being replaced by the devotees, who purchased 
parcels of the perfumed grains from a toothless dame stationed 
near by. 

Mrs. Nambo bought a small package, and emptied its 
contents into the burner, but neither her niece nor husband 
followed her example; however, Fitz, who was much attracted 
by the performance, and whose face denoted the satisfaction 
derived from a newly conceived idea, bought a large box, con- 
taining about two pounds of the powder, and, before his friends 
knew of his investment, scattered his offering on the live coals. 
The result was a choking, dense smoke that poured out of the 
holes in the censer, and almost suffocated the people near it. 



244 YOUNG AMERICANS IN JAPAN. 

Some Japanese soldiers in natty French uniforms, who were 
waiting to make their offerings, coughed, choked, and uttered 
muffled imprecations, and the crowd sneezed, hawked, and 
finally dispersed; everybody being anxious to get into the fresh 
air. In the midst of the confusion, a bozu came forward and 
after vigorously cuffing the incense-seller, cried, — 

"Do you want to smother us all?" 

The agitated dame pointed to Fitz. 

"What have you done, sir?" sternly demanded the Pro- 
fessor, who suspected his son was at the bottom of the 
mischief. 

" I ? " innocently answered the boy. " I only burnt a little 
incense. Mother said I was to make myself agreeable. I 
have not done any harm." 

His parent explained the matter to the bozu, who smiled, 
bowed, and said, — 

"A thousand pardons. We thought the worthy woman 
was out of her mind. She sometimes gives such large pinches 
that the odor becomes quite overpowering. Would your 
honorable son like to burn a little more?" 

The boy was about to acquiesce, when his father, after bow- 
ing to the bozu, addressed him sternly, saying, — 

" Fitz, I am very much annoyed with you! Come, we will 
go and see the chrysanthemums." 

As they emerged into the well-kept garden on the left of 
the temple. Miss Kiku said in a pleading tone, — 

" Please don't scold Fitz. He did not mean to do wrong." 

" He is very thoughtless," said the Professor. Then, turning 
to his hostess, he continued, " Mrs. Nambo, I am exceedingly 
sorry — " 

" Indeed, you need not apologize," said the delighted old 
lady, whose eyes were still red from the effects of the incense- 
"I think he performed a very pious — " 



THE TEMPLE OF KUWANNON AT ASAKUSA. 245 

"What lovely chrysanthemums! " exclaimed Oto, as though 
he had not heard his mother's remark. "Are they not a glorious 
sight?" 

Miss Kiku bit her lips, and glanced at her cousin, and the 
visitors, w^ho w^ere glad to change the subject, joined Oto in his 
praise of the flow^ers. 

" Beautiful ! beautiful ! " exclaimed Sallie. " Oh ! such 
colors and magnificent blossoms! Why, they excel anything 
we have at home." 

" Surely not," quietly replied Oto. 

" Yes, they do ! " said Johnnie. " You beat us at this sort 
of thing. Why, some of them are trained to grow in shapes; 
there's a cuttle-fish — and a lantern — and — a — fox! " 

" Yes, they are lovely," said Mrs. Nambo. " We value the 
kiku (chrysanthemum) very highly. Its flower forms the im- 
perial mon^ and it has always been a favorite object for our 
artists to paint. Our poets have written thousands of stanzas 
about it. Fitz Sama, do you not think they are beautiful ? " 

" Are these the kind that you make greens of? " he asked. 

"What!" said Sallie, who was perfectly horrified at the 
idea of converting such lovely objects into food. 

" You need not say ' what ' in tnat tone," he retorted. " Miss 
Kiku asked me whether I had ever tasted a dish of chrysan- 
themum flowers. I suppose a thing may be good to eat as 
well as nice to look at." 

The young Japanese lady smiled, and said, — 

" Fitz is quite right. We sometimes eat the yellow chrys- 
anthemum blossoms, and I can assure you they make an ex- 
cellent dish." 

The visitors inspected the glorious masses, some of which 
contained over a thousand blooms, then they wandered about 
the grounds, and viewed the various articles of interest. The 
place was too full of visitors to render locomotion comfortable, 



246 YOUNG AMERICANS IN JAPAN. 

and the Professor and his party were glad enough to find a 
quiet nook where they could enjoy tea and refreshments. 

" Can't we see the wax- works? " inquired Johnnie. 

"Do you mean the thirty-five tableaux of the miracles of 
Kuwannon ? " said Mr. Nambo. 

"Yes, sir; Oto always called them the wax- works." 

Mr. Nambo regarded his son with a comical expression, as 
he answered, — 

" The building will be packed with sightseers, so I think 
we must defer our visit until another day. I was not aware 
that my son described those sacred groups as wax-works." 

They remained in the grounds until the evening, when the 
temples were brilliantly illuminated, and the whole place 
appeared alive with pleasure-seekers. 

As they passed through the avenue on their way home, they 
beheld acrobats performing in the open air, and heard the shrill 
cries of ^^Nammiyol Nammiyol'''' mingled with the "hail 
hai! " of athletes who were carrying pyramids of their brethren. 

" We shall have to visit Asakusa again," remarked the Pro- 
fessor. " What say you, wife, shall we come early to-morrow 
and stay all day? I could wander for a week among those 
beautiful flowers." 




NIGHT SCENE OUTSIDE THE TEMPLE. 



248 YOUNG AMERICANS IN JAPAN. 



CHAPTER XIV. 

FROM TOKIO TO KANASAWA. 

When the days are warm 

And the streets of Tokio glow like furnaces, 

We will seek the cool groves 

Of distant Kamakoura, 

And the mountains of Hakone. — Japanese Poem. 

THE next morning when the brothers awoke, Oto entered 
their room, and, drawing aside the amado (shutters), 
pointed to the sky, which was " emptying its liquid blessing " 
upon the scene. 

"No travelling to-day," he said. 

" Oto," replied Fitz, sitting up and rubbing" his eyes, " I 
have been thinking of something." 

"I hope it is something sensible," said his brother in a 
drowsy tone. 

" Of course it is," was the merry rejoinder. " I'm not like 
you, Johnnie Jewett. I'm wide awake. Say, Oto, suppose, 
after this, we dress in Japanese fashion. When 3'^ou came to 
the States you adopted our costume, and I notice that very few 
of your countrymen have discarded the national garb." 

" To tell the truth, I would like to resume my old costume," 
answered Oto. " If Johnnie will agree to it we'll send for a 
tailor and have suits made right away." 

" I'm willing," said Johnnie. " You wore our dress, so I do 
not see why we should not pay you a similar compliment." 

That morning they held a secret consultation with some 
tradesmen, who were closeted with them for several hours, and 
who the next evening returned to the house with a number of 



PROM TOKIO TO KANASAWA. 25 1 

boxes containing everything necessary for the costumes of the 
three boys. 

Sallie, who had been very anxious to know what her 
brothers were planning, endeavored to learn from Fitz, but 
the only reply he gave was, — 

" You just wait, sister. We are going to astonish you." 

The rain continued for three days, and seemed as though it 
would never cease. However, on the fourth morning the boys 
saw the sun shining through the crevices in the shutters, notic- 
ing which they hurriedly rose and dressed themselves in their 
new garments. 

The suits consisted of silken under-shirts, cut low in the 
neck (Johnnie's idea), kimono (long coats), hakama (full 
trousers), and obi (girdles), of striped silk, white cotton tabi 
(socks with toe-pieces), and neatly made wooden clogs; the 
latter of course not being worn in the house. 

When old Mitsu-ro beheld them, she clapped her hands, and 
exclaimed, — 

" Oh ! honorable foreign master-boys, do have your heads 
shaven on top and your hair dressed in proper fashion." 

" Not for Fitz ! " answered the irrepressible. 

*' Or for Johnnie," said his brother. 

They waited till breakfast was announced, then entered the 
room in single file, and, prostrating themselves, performed the 
respectful ceremony, that is, bowed their foreheads nine times 
to the matted floor, and audibly inhaled their breath. 

Every one was much amused, and Mrs. Nambo said, — 

"You look very handsome in your new clothes. Please 
never resume those unbecoming — " 

" I thought my honorable mother would be pleased," said 
Oto, speaking in time to prevent his mother from fully express- 
ing her opinion about the foreign-cut garments. "Where is 
Sallie?" 



252 YOUNG AMERICANS IN JAPAN. 

As he spoke, the young lady, dressed in Japanese costume, 
advanced from her room, followed by O-Kiku. 

" Why, sissy! " cried Fitz, " you look perfectly elegant." 

" You did not imagine I meant to be outdone by you, did 
you, Fitz Jewett?" she laughingly replied. "O-Kiku and I 
guessed what you boys were about, and I made my mind up to 
do the same." 

After breakfast a number of double jin-riki-sha were 
brought round to the entrance, and their host said, — 

" I have engaged these vehicles in order that our friends 
might ride in company. The runners are very powerful men, 
and can pull twice the weight of ordinary ones. When you 
have selected your companions, we will start for Kanasawa, 
where we will rest for the night." 

The Professor chose his wife; Mrs. Nambo, O-Kiku; Mr. 
Nambo, Oto; and Johnnie, Fitz, — Sallie electing to ride Abra- 
ham Lincoln, who was growing lazy from want of exercise. 

They stepped into the jin-riM-sha^ the shafts of which 
were resting on the ground, and the runners, raising the poles, 
gave the vehicles a tilt backwards and started at a run. 

Away went the merry party, out of the main gate, along the 
avenue, over the Nippon Bashi, and past the castle walls; the 
moats surrounding which were glowing with lotus blossoms. 

A short distance beyond, they halted to permit a procession 
to pass. 

The buildings in that quarter were of two stories, and were 
draped with cloths imprinted with crests, and filled with spec- 
tators anxiously awaiting the arrival of the cortege. 

" Come," said Mr. Nambo, who had alighted, " I have se- 
cured tickets of admission behind the railings on the side of the 
street. We shall have a good view of the sight, though only a 
part of the procession will pass here." \ 

When they were comfortably seated on the matted ground, 



254 YOUNG AMERICANS IN JAPAN. 

they heard a great noise in the distance, and finally beheld a 
body of men advancing with a fi-ame-work, sustaining a banner 
marked, " The Brotherhood of theJnvincible Yorimitsu." Then 
came sixteen men, dressed in uniform, staggering under the 
weight of an enormous sambo, on which rested a gigantic 
head of Shutendoji, a horned demon with a scarlet complexion. 
Behind this marched a tall man, bearing a papier-mache axe, 
the blade of which was six feet long, and broad in proportion. 

As the head was borne past the ward banner, which was 
erected on a mast opposite the Jewetts, the bearers uttered loud 
yells, which were re-echoed by the spectators, who appeared 
to be greatly delighted with the show. 

"What does it all mean?" asked Fitz. 

Oto smiled, and, shrugging his shoulders, said, — 

" It is to honor the memory of Yorimitsu, a warrior who 
killed Shutendoji, a monster that once devastated the plain of 
Yedo, and, like all such legendary creatures, used to devour 
beautiful young girls." 

In the rear of the axe-bearer came men in armor, riding 
white horses, bozu in kago (litters), more men in armor, um- 
brella and standard bearers, and a number of carts containing 
platforms, on which were figures similar to those the travellers 
had seen at Shimonoseki. 

One of the vehicles contained a gigantic figure of Fuku- 
roku-jin, who was represented with an enormous head and 
dwarf body, with his right hand raising his bushy right eye- 
brow, and with his left grasping a long bamboo gnarled at the 
end. 

This figure attracted the attention of Fitz, who whispered to 
Mrs. Nambo, — 

"Who is that old gentleman with a mansard forehead?" 

"A what?" she blandly answerea. 

Oto came to her assistance, and replied, — - 



FROM TOKIO TO KANASAWA. 



255 



" That is the longevity god." 

" But why does he have such a big head?" persisted the 
boy. "Was he afflicted vv^ith water on the brain?" 

"No," answered Oto; "he 
was a very wise man, and al- 




#^^ 




ways thought before he 
spoke." 

" Yes," remarked Johnnie, 
" that is the reason why he is so 
much respected. You'll never 
be like him, Fitz." 

" I hope not," was the laugh- 
ing response. "I don't want a 
head like the dome of the Cap- 
itol at Washington. I bet you 
he never made unkind re- 
marks to his poor little brother. 
Wouldn't his head have puzzled 
the phrenologists?" 

Their further conversation 
was cut short by the noise of the drums in the rear of the 
procession. 

When the latter had passed. Miss Kiku clasped her hands 
palm to palm, and exclaimed, — 

" My sakes alive ! I want to go to the Golden Pheasant. I 
haven't a book to read while we are at Hakone ! I shall die ! 
The library is not far from here, so please, honorable uncle, let 
us go that way." 

Mr. Nambo gave the runners instructions where to halt, 
and the party entering their vehicles, were trundled down a 
side street. 

" There is the building," said the young lady, indicating a 
store, in front of which were some handsome lanterns bearing 



FUKU-ROKU-JIN (LONGEVITY GOD). 



256 



YOUNG AMERICANS IN JAPAN. 



the sign of the house, and announcements of the latest works* 
which were also repeated on the walls and short curtains above 
the doors. 

As the jin-riki-sha men stopped, Fitz nodded toward a 
man who carried a comical face in a frame on his back, and 
said, — 




A CIRCULATING LIBRARY. 

"Is that an advertisement?" 

" No," replied Mrs. Nambo. " He is a pilgrim bearing a 
representation of a tengu head. The tengu is a demon said 
to inhabit unfrequented places." ^ 

She would have given a history of the creature, and 



FROM TOKIO TO KANASAWA. 



257 



otherwise enlightened her hearers, had not Miss Kiku in- 
quired, — 

" Honorable aunt, do you wish to procure a novel or two? " 

This diverted the old lady's attention, and she descended 
from her vehicle and entered the building, which was filled 
wnth customers and clerks, who were busily engaged receiving 
and delivering sets of books. 

Having selected quite a pile of volumes, they had them 
checked, then paid the fees and returned to their jin-riki-sha^ 
whereupon the party resumed their journey. 

The city was dusty, and the air close and hot, so they were 
glad enough to reach Shinagawa. 

" Now for a gallop on the Tokaido," cried Sallie, as they 
dashed past the railway terminus, which was alive with holiday- 
seekers just arrived from Yokohama. " Where shall I stop for 
you?" 

"At the Roku-go ferry," said Oto. 

Away she went, the jin-riki-sha men racing as hard as 
they could to keep up with her. 

^^ Isn't this jolly!" cried Johnnie, as they passed a torii 
through which could be seen a glimpse of distant Fuji-yama. 
"Put up the umbrella, Fitz; the sun is fearfully hot." 

His brother complied, and they were rattled along at a 
smart pace, their coolie, a muscular fellow, dressed in neatly 
patched garments, propelling the vehicle with the greatest 
ease. 

It was a strange sight,* two young Americans dressed in 
Japanese garb, shading their heads with a cotton umbrella, and 
riding in a curiously shaped vehicle drawn by a man, who, as 
he ran, thought, — 

" What extraordinary creatures these honorable foreigners 
are, to be sure. They cannot go ten yards without covering 

* Vide cover, representing Johnnie and Fitz riding in a. j'in-riki-sha. 



258 YOUNG AMERICANS IN JAPAN. 

their heads with an umbrella. One would think their skulls 
were made of paper." 

At one place a chunky, little, spotted dog with a rudimen- 
tary tail, rushed out of a house, and barked defiantly at them, 
repeating his salutation to o^dich. Jin-riki-sha, and after the last 
had passed, turning, thoroughly satisfied with his performance, 
and trotting in-doors. 

They overtook Sallie at the ferry, and, when the party had 
been carried over the stream in the rickety boat, rattled on 
until they reached Namamugi, where they halted at a celebrated 
tea-house, and took luncheon. 

As they sat and enjoyed the meal, Oto pointed to some trees 
near the house, and said, — 

" It was there the Englishman Richardson lost his life." 

" Do tell us all about it," urged Sallie. 

" It was a very foolish business," said Oto. " In those 
days our nobles considered that no one had a right to 
cross the line of their processions, and the samurai al- 
wa3^s resented such a thing as a deliberate insult to their 
lords." 

"I understand," remarked Johnnie; "just as our people 
would resent any one attempting to cross a Fourth of July 
procession." 

"Yes, that is a good comparison," answered the Japanese. 
" Richardson thought he could do as he pleased, and did not 
consider we had any rights he was bound to respect. He knew 
that Shimadzo Saburo, a powerful member of the Satsuma 
clan, was on his way from Yedo (Tokio), notwithstanding 
which he and some friends, one of whom was a lady, rode out 
on the Tokaido, and, upon encountering the cortege, deliber- 
ately tried to pass through it. The retainers of the noble, 
deeming the act a premeditated outrage, drew their swords and 
cut the gentlemen down, but did not harm the lady. Richard- 



FROM TOKIO TO KANASAWA. 259 

son died; and the British bombarded the city of Kagoshima^ 
killed a great number of people, destroyed factories, mills, 
founderies, and batteries; fired the palace of the Prince, and 
committed other acts of reprisal. In addition to our losses, we 
were compelled to pay an indemnity of six hundred and twenty- 
five thousand dollars." 

"Are the English sorry for their barbarous act?" asked 
Fitz. "Have they ever said anything about returning the 
money?" 

" Not a word," replied Oto, adding, sarcastically, " We had 
to pay a heavy sum for being civilized." 

"So you did," said Johnnie. "Your first experience of 
foreign nations must have been a particularly unpleasant 
one." 

" Yes," said Fitz, with a chuckle, " they served your coun- 
trymen worse than we did you. We only loaded our cannon 
with a cucumber." 

"They were like us," said Sallie, "they did not know -you. 
When they discovered you were the same as themselves, they 
— they — " 

"Made you pay double for everything 370U bought of them," 
said Fitz. " I hear that your railway cost about five times as 
much per mile as it ought to have done." 

"V/e now build our own railroads and steamships," said 
Oto. " The day has passed for foreign adventurers to make 
fortunes out of us." 

"Boys," said Mr. Nambo, "if you have concluded your 
discussion we will resume our journey." 

For some distance the road lay along the shore of the bay, 
and was lined with houses and shaded with picturesquely 
crooked, feathered pitch-pines, some of which formed fantastic 
arches overhead. 

The travellers stopped at Kanagawa, a place famous for 



26o 



YOUNG AMERICANS IN JAPAN. 



its paper umbrellas, and while resting at a tea-house, Mrs. 
Nambo recited a poem, which is thus translated, — 

" When it rains, the frogs sing gleefully. 
Happy is he who owns a Kanagawa umbrella." 

To which O-Kiku replied, — 

" When the sun shines hotly at mid-day, 
He is fortunate who carries a Tokio higasa " (parasol). 

"What is that mon (crest) on the lantern yonder man is 

varnishing?" inquired 
^ Johnnie, pointing to a 
\ workman engaged in 
^^1 the occupation de- 
scribed. 

" That is a tomoye^"* 
said Mr. Nambo, "a 
mon, formed of three 
t e a r - 1 i k e strokes, 
painted on lanterns 
used at Matsuri, and 
on temple drums; it 
is also imprinted on 
the edges of roofing 
tiles." 

"What does it mean?" demanded Fitz. 
" It is a figure that brings luck to whoever possesses it," 
observed Mrs. Nambo. " I always carry a paper marked thus 
in my left sleeve." 

"Does it bring you good or bad luck? " said Fitz. 
The gentle lady laughed merrily and replied, — 
"Sometimes one and sometimes the other;" adding, as she 
saw Oto approach, "My son, what^ became of the silver tomoye 
I gave you when you left for America?" 




A LANTERN-MAKER. 



FROM TOKIO TO KANASAWA. 26 1 

I — I — " hesitated Oto; then seeing his father was 
smiling, he said, "Is everything ready? I have paid the bill, 
and it is time we started." 

Fitz chuckled, for he always enjoyed the reference to his 
comrade's former belief in such things as tomoye. 

In another moment they were off, Sallie leading on her 
pony, and the rest of the party in their vehicles, chatting as 
they rode. 

" I admire Oto for his devotion to his mother," said Tohnnie. 
" You ought not to tease him, Fitz." 

"Nonsense!" replied the boy. "I think it is fun to hear him 
respectfully check her when she begins to talk about luck and 
idols. He is always on the lookout and stops her at the most 
interesting times. If he did not, we should learn lots about 
the god-fox, and all those things." 

" We know enough," said Johnnie. " I think he is ever so 
good. Though he does not believe in such things, he is un- 
v^illing she should be ridiculed for doins" so." 

" I never thought of that," answered Fitz, in a reflective 
tone. "Johnnie, after this I will not try to draw her out. As 
you say, Oto is a devoted son and a perfect gentleman." 

They reached the town of Kanasawa about four o'clock, 
and put up at the principal yadoya (inn), where they partook 
of an excellent dinner. 

That evening, when they were resting in the veranda, and 
talking over the events of the day, they heard a drumming 
noise proceeding from a neighboring building. 

"Is not that a pretty racket?" tartly remarked their land- 
lady. " It is those absurd Shintos, amusing themselves with 
their dolls." 

"You speak as though you disliked them," observed the 
Professor. 

"Dislike!" she cried. "Why do they plant themselves 



262 



YOUNG AMERICANS IN JAPAN. 



right under our noses. We are good Buddhists, and don't wish 
our children to be corrupted by the Shintos. They are not 
wanted here." 

" Come, boys, we will see what is going on," said Johnnie, 
rising, and quitting the veranda. Oto and Fitz followed, and 
they entered a barn-like structure, filled with men dressed in 
curious robes, and wearing hats adorned with flowers. All of 




A SHINTO CEREMONY. 



them carried fans, and some held enormous open umbrellas 
decorated with various figures. 

"Look at their pants," whispered Fitz. "They are so 
loose behind that they have to tie their coats between their 
limbs, in order to walk." 

" Stop! " said Johnnie. 

The boys elbowed their way through the crowd toward a 



FROM TOKIO TO KANASAWA. 263 

platform surmounted by a canopy under which were some 
large dolls that were danced to the music of a band, composed 
of drummers and samisen players. As the figures moved, a 
man, who held a book, sang in a most lugubrious voice. 

"What is it all about .^" inquired Fitz of one of the wor- 
shippers. 

" Shinto," mysteriously answered the man. 

"Yes; but what does it mean?" 

" Shinto," said the fellow. 

"I know it is Shinto," persisted the boy. "Tell me what 
they are doing and why do they do it?" 

" I don't know," was the mechanical response. " It does 
not mean anything. It 's Shinto." 

The lads watched the puppets awhile, then retired. 

When they reached the inn, Fitz related what they had 
seen, and Mr. Nambo said, — 

" Yes, there is nothing in Shintoism. It gives its followers 
no comfort in this life, and no hope in the future." 

" Ah I " sighed his wife, glancing sadly at Oto, " if all the 
world would only believe in Buddha!" — adding, "My son, 
to-morrow we will show your friends the beautiful figure of 
the All-Merciful. I think when you see it, you will forget 
your new faith and turn to the true path." 

The boy did not reply, and Fitz wisely held his peace. 

The next morning they rose at daylight, and, after partaking 
'Df a light meal, started for the sacred groves of Kamakoura. 



64 YOUNG AMERICANS IN JAPAN. 



CHAPTER XV. 

THE GREAT BRONZE IMAGE OF BUDDHA. 

Overhead the sky was calm and cloudless; 

Around were the silent woods ; 

But neither the calmness of the heavens, 

Nor the stillness of the earth, 

Were as impressive as the serene majesty 

Of Dai-Butsu. — Japanese Poem. 

AS the sun peeped over the hills of Kamakoura, and flooded 
the temple-studded valley, a strange procession wended its 
way along the Kanasawa road in the direction of the Avenue 
of Hachiman. 

First, walked Mr. Nambo, silent and thoughtful, with his 
head bowed. 

Behind him was his wife, who followed with half-closed 
eyes, murmuring her prayers, every now and again counting 
off" a bead of her rosary, and turning to glance at her recusant 
son, who was chatting and laughing with his American friends. 

At a little distance from the pious lady, came Sallie and 
O-Kiku, hand in hand, talking merrily, as young girls do, about 
the patterns of their dresses. 

Then came the Professor, Mrs. Jewett, Oto and the boys, 
in a group; and behind them two servants, with bamboo poles, 
carrying the hand-valises of the foreigners, and their masters' 
and mistresses' dressing-cases. 

On nearing the spot where the Kanasawa road joined the 
grand Avenue of Hachiman, which extends from the shore of 
the bay to the gateway of the temple, they crossed a pretty 



THE GREAT BRONZE IMAGE OF BUDDHA. 



265 



bridge spanning a brawling stream, and presently came to a 
place where three torii were erected. Two of these stood on 
the main avenue, and the third at the end of the Kanasawa road. 
There the travellers encountered a number of pilgrims, moving 
in the direction of the temple of Hachiman, and saw that they 
consisted of all classes. 

Some of them were dressed in the national style, and wore 
their hair in the old fashion, in a gun-hammer queue; others 
allowed their coarse, black locks to grow, and a few wore 
foreign garb. 

The women were all clothed in the becoming native cos- 
tume, and most of them carried babies on their backs. 

The main avenue, like the road from Kanasawa, was bor- 
dered with magnificent trees, beyond which could be seen the 
temple, standing out clearly in the bright sunlight. 

" How gratifying it is to see so many pious pilgrims on 
their way to the sacred place," remarked Mrs. Nambo, as she 
halted in order to permit Mrs. Jewett to join her. " I feel sure 
you will all be touched by the majesty of the Dai-Butsu (great 
statue of Buddha). I have known many people, who came 
here sceptics, to leave the place converted to the true faith." 

Mrs. Nambo never seemed to comprehend that her guests 
really believed what they professed, and in her kind, motherly 
way hoped to bring them to what she termed the truth. 

Oto, who overheard what his mother said, endeavored to 
change the subject, but she was full of enthusiasm, and had 
evidently planned the trip in order to convert her guests. 

On their way up the long avenue she chatted alternately 
with Mrs. Jewett, the Professor, Sallie, and the boys, and was 
as persistent and sanguine as many of our dear old ladies are 
over the salvation of the Japanese. 

After crossing a bridge, the travellers ascended some steps, 
and passing the portal, or grand gateway, with its gorgeously 



266 



YOUNG AMERICANS IN JAPAN. 



colored Nio (two kings), and collection of musty sandals, ar- 
rived on the first platform, — a large space, enclosed with solid 
walls of masonry, in which stood many buildings. 

On their left were a pagoda and the treasury. The former 
was a two-storied edifice, bearing a vane called Kin-do (nine 
rings), a solid spiral of copper, surmounted by a gilt design 
representing the sacred tama (jewel, crystal, or pearl), set in 
the serrated tail of a dragon. 




THE PAGODA AND TREASURY OF THE TEMPLE. 

The visitors inspected the exteriors of these structures, but 
were not permitted to see the wealth stored within. A few 
pilgrims were sauntering about the spot, and the young Ameri- 
cans saw a number of bozu who were taking their morning's 
exercise. 

"Stop, Oto," said Mrs. Nambo, as they approached the 
cistern near the steep flight of steps leading to the temple. 
"Let me give you a little of this to ^inse your mouth and 
moisten 3^our hands." 



THE GREAT BRONZE IMAGE OF BUDDHA. 267 

Oto, who felt very uncomfortable, and blushed like a girl, 
shook his head and turned away; noticing which, Fitz advanced 
and said, — 

" Mrs. Nambo, I don't mind taking a drink." 

The lady, who a moment before had been full of motherly 
anxiety for her son, glanced at Fitz's bright, frank face, and 
smiled; then inserting the wooden dipper in the cistern, 
handed it to him, saying, — 

" Yes, yes, drink, and pour some of the holy liquid over your 
hands. It may cleanse your mind from its strange belief" 

"Oh! you consider that is sacred, do you?" he queried. 
" Guess I — guess I won't take any — thank you. I'm not 
thirsty." 

This made the spectators laugh, and caused her husband to 
say, — 

"Now, honorable wife, I think 3^ou had better leave our 
honorable guests to do as they please. Purify yourself and 
follow us." 

They climbed the steps, and when they reached the terrace, 
turned and beheld, at their feet, the grand entrance, the broad 
avenue, the three torii^ and the bay of Kamakoura, all of which 
formed a beautiful panorama; while on their right and left were 
the wooded hills, dotted here and there with the cells of 
recluses, who knew nothing, either of the outer world or of 
modern progress. 

They watched this scene for a long time, and would have 
remained still longer had not Mrs. Nambo said, — 

" Do none of our honorable friends desire to go into the 
temple?" 

Of course they said "yes," and, putting off their shoes, 
followed her, but failed to discover anything of very great 
interest. 

The idols were mean in appearance, and the place what 



268 



YOUNG AMERICANS IN JAPAN. 



Fitz termed "stuffy;" so, after a casual inspection, they returned 
to the open air, leaving their hostess, who said she desired to 
offer a prayer. 




On the left of the main porch were some magnificent 
lanterns of bronze and stone; also a number of cisterns, sur- 
mounted by pyramids of buckets — th^ fire establishment of the 
temple. 



THE GREAT BRONZE IMAGE OF BUDDHA. 



269 



While the Professor and rest of the party were viewing the 
glorious scene, Fitz quietly returned to the temple, where he 
found Mrs. Nambo, purchasing some slips of paper from a 
bozu. She did not notice the boy's reappearance, and was 
chatting quite confidentially with the vender of the documents. 

" Let me see," she mused, as she counted her purchases. 
"I have nine for Oto, one for my husband, one for Kiku, and 




TERRACE OF THE TEMPLE. 



one each for our honored guests from afar. I think I ought to 
buy more for them, they need praying for." 

"I would not waste my money on those infidels," said the 
bozu. "Purchase a package for your son, he sadly requires 
your prayers." 

"Yes, that is wise advice," she murmured. "Ah! my poor- 
boy, his heart has been turned to stone." 



270 YOUNG AMERICANS IN JAPAN. 

During her speech, the bozu observed Fitz, and, making a 
signal to her, whispered, — 

"You are watched by one of your honorable guests from 
afar." 

On seeing the boy, she smiled and said, — 

" I am going to offer prayers for you." 

Fitz chuckled inwardly, but did not reply; so she added, — 

" Come and see me make my offerings." 

It was a strange sight to watch the trio, — Mrs. Nambo 
chewing strips of white paper, and gravely throwing them at an 
idol, which was specked all over with similar missives; the 
bozu regarding her as solemnly as a deacon does a pious person 
who places a large contribution in the collection plate; and the 
young American, endeavoring to preserve a serious counte- 
nance. 

Oto's mother was not a good shot, and the pellets flew wide 
of the mark. 

" Let me try," urged Fitz, checking a rising smile. "Guess I, 
can — " 

" No, no," she gently answered. " I must throw them my- 
self." 

As he was turning away to indulge in a quiet laugh, he be- 
held his father, who, regarding him sternly, beckoned him out 
of the temple. 

" Fitz," he said, when they reached the terrace, " remember, 
though the act of that lady appears absurd, arfd is idolatrous, 
your ridicule will not convince her we are in the right. Come 
away. Of late you have behaved very strangely; what has 
wrought this change in you ? " 

The boy looked very penitent, hung his head, and mur- 
mured, — 

"I think it is the climate, sir! J can't help feeling lively. 
Did you not tell Mr. Nambo that the air is full of ozone? " 



THE GREAT BRONZE IMAGE OF BUDDHA. 



271 



His parent averted his face and bit his lips; the idea of the 
chmate having had such an effect upon his son being quite too 
much for him. 

When the worthy old lady had concluded her devotions, 
they proceeded to a small temple, from the terrace of which 
they had a grand view of the surrounding country, the bay of 
Kamakoura, and the beautiful island of Enoshima. 




THE ISLAND OF ENOSHIMA. 



"What a magnificent sight!" said the Professor. "Your 
bozu join hands with Nature, and the result is a combination of 
buildings and natural scenery that is most impressive. No 
wonder your people love to come hither." 

" Would you like to see the great statue at the back of the 
altar of this temple? " inquired Mrs. Nambo. 

" No, thank you," answered Mrs. Jewett. " I think we had 
better go on to the Dai-Butsu." 



272 YOUNG AMERICANS IN JAPAN. 

" Come this way," said Oto, who was glad enough to avoid 
the exhibition. " It is quite a little walk to the great statue." 

They turned into a winding path, bordered with high shrubs 
and shaded with aged trees. After walking some distance they 
came to a bend in the road, on rounding which they suddenly 
beheld the famous image. 

For a moment the entire party remained as though awe- 
stricken, — Mrs. Nambo sinking on her knees, and bowing her 
forehead to the ground. 

Then Fitz recovered somewhat from his amazement and 
exclaimed, in a startled voice, — 

"Jeminy! what's that? " 

^^ Namu Amida Butsuf^ murmured Mrs. Nambo. 

" Hail, great Buddha ! " exclaimed the Professor. " Hail,, 
thou glorious inspiration and majestic creation of a poetic soul!"" 

"John," whispered his wife, "keep calm! " 

" Yes, it is glorious," he continued. " The artist who 
wrought that must have had his whole soul in his work." 

" Guess it was cast, wasn't it? " suggested Fitz, eying the 
statue critically. " I can see the cracks where the pieces were 
joined! " 

" What repose of feature! How dignified it is! " said Sallie, 
who did not heed her brother's remark. " Next to Fuji-yama 
this is the most impressive sight in Japan." 

" I wonder how high it is, and how many tons of metal 
there are in it," said Johnnie to Oto. 

" I neither know nor care," was the quick response. " It is^ 
as Sallie says, one of the most impressive sights of my native 
land." 

"Say," whispered Fitz, "why has it a curly head? I never 
saw one of your countrymen with his hair done up in that 
fashion." n 

" Those are"^not curls," gravely answered Oto. " When 




STATUE OF DAI-BUTSU (GREAT BUDDHA). 



2 74 YOUNG AMERICANS IN JAPAN. 

Buddha was exposed to the broiling sun, the snails clustered on 
his head and protected the sacred skull." 

" I want to know," murmured the irrepressible. " Is that a 
spit-ball prayer on his forehead ? " 

" That is the — silver boss or wart," replied Oto, who 
could scarcely refrain from smiling. 

"Oh! Buddha had warts, had he? Why didn't he use — " 

"Fitz! " sternly exclaimed the Professor, "remember — " 

" I forgot," answered the boy, gazing up at the blue sky. 
"Isn't it a lovely day, Oto? " 

After they had thoroughly enjoyed the sight, the bozu in 
charge of the image advanced toward them, and, bowing, 
said, — 

" Would the honorable visitors from afar like to enter the 
chapel, and — " 

" Yes," replied Oto, " my friends wish to see every part of 
the Dai-Butsu." 

They ascended the steps, and, at the invitation of the 
guardian, the bo3^s climbed upon the statue, and examined the 
inscriptions covering the neck and body of the image. These 
were in very ancient characters that puzzle ordinar}' scholars 
to read, and even Mr. Nambo could not decipher them. 

While the brothers were thus employed, Oto and his father 
inspected the bronze altar in front of the idol, and the beautiful 
lanterns placed at the foot of the pedestal. 

Although Mr. Nambo professed to be indifferent to his 
wife's religion, he stepped upon the block of wood in front of 
the altar, and poured the contents of a paper of incense into 
the censer, fron) which presentl}^ rose a blue smoke that floated 
hither and thither on the still air. 

" Hi, Sallie! " cried Fitz, "won't you come up here? " 

" I am worshipping from afar," answered the girl. " This 
is indeed a wonderful statue! " 



THE GREAT BRONZE IMAGE OF BUDDHA. 275 

The boys descended from their elevation, and followed the 
bozu into a little chapel in the base of the figure. 

At first they could scarcely see anything, though when their 
eyes became accustomed to the gloom, they beheld an altar 
lighted from an aperture away up in the neck-folds of Bud- 
dha's robe. 

At high noon the sun, shining down the interior of the 
figure, illuminates the altar in a brilliant manner; however, at 
the time the boys visited the place, the light was only sufficient 
to partly reveal the objects in the chapel. 

While the young Americans were inspecting the decora- 
tions, the bozu was opening a case that he had drawn from a 
recess under the altar. He was a wizen-faced, pithecoid 
individual, with ferret-like eyes, and a furtive manner that 
greatly amused Fitz, who, noticing the man's act, said in 
English, — 

" What is he about? " 

"Unpacking something," replied Johnnie. 

The object of their remark knelt by the box, tore off a 
layer of straw covering its contents, and drawing forth a bottle, 
said in a confidential tone, — 

" Only fifty senP 

"What is it — a relic?" deAianded Fitz, who by the dim 
light could not clearly distinguish the object. "We are not 
Buddhists." 

"It is mugi-sake (beer)," whispered the bozu. 

"What?" cried Johnnie. 

^^ Bee-ahP'' replied the man, smiling hideously. "You 
English people always ask for it when you come here. Only 
fifty senP 

The lads could scarcely believe the evidence of their ears. 
When he repeated his offer, and stripping off the paper, 
exhibited the highly colored label, Johnnie said, — 



276 YOUNG AMERICANS IN JAPAN. 

"My friend, we are Americans. We ca 
drinking beer." 

"Americans?" cried the 3 ozu, grinning more diabolically 
than before, and rapidly putting the bottle back into the case. 
"Oh — I have something that will suit you better. Wait for a 
moment." 

Away he went, leaving the amazed boys wondering what 
he was going to show them. 

" Guess he has some pork and beans cooking in his den," 
murmured Fitz. " He's a regular Yankee." 

In a few moments back came the dozu, carrying a large 
bag, which he unceremoniously dumped upon the altar. 

" I have some pieces of the Dai-Butsu here," he whispered, 
as though afraid of being overheard by the pilgrims, who were 
arriving in great numbers. "You can have fragments of the 
snails or of the robe — only one yen each — " 

"We are not buying old metal to-day," answered Fitz. 
"Here is a yen for your kindness, but we do not want any 
specimens. Sayonara (farewell)." 

They rejoined their friends, and Fitz told his father of their 
adventure, when the Professor smiled and said, — 

"I suppose the demand has produced the supply. Some 
Englishmen cannot visit such a spot as this without asking for 
beer, and our countrymen have a weakness for relics." 

"You were wise not to purchase any of the latter," observed 
Mr. Nambo. " That dozu sells tons of pieces of the Dai-Butsu 
in a year. It is a source of revenue." 

After they had taken a farewell look at the majestic figure, 
which had quite enchanted the Professor, Mrs. Jewett, and 
Sallie, they retired, and made the best of their way toward the 
Grand Avenue. 

They had planned to visit the Island of Enoshima, then hire 
jin-riki-sha and kago and go up to Hakone, where they 



THE GREAT BRONZE IMAGE OF BUDDHA. 277 

intended to stay with one of Mr. Nambo's relatives, who had 
sent a most pressing invitation to the entire party. 

" I shall never think of Japan without remembering the 
Dai-Butsu," said Sallie. 

" And I shall never think of the Dai-Butsu without remem- 
bering that comical bozu^'^ laughingly observed Johnnie. " He 
has missed his vocation — he ought to be driving a peddler's 
cart." 

"We can obtain jin-riM-sha here," said Oto, as they 
reached a tea-house on the Avenue. "It is four miles to 
Enoshima, and we shall have plenty of walking to do after we 
get there." 

They refreshed themselves, and, after resting awhile, 
entered the vehicles, and were trundled down the pilgrim- 
crowded avenue, and across the sand spit that unites the main- 
land to the sacred island. 

On reaching the latter, their runners halted, and the travel- 
lers alighted, passed beneath a torii^ and ascended the stair- 
like street, on each side of which were shops filled with 
curiosities; among them being the so-called pencil-coral, that 
looks like plumes of spun glass, but is in reality the legs of 
once living organisms of the sponge tribe. They also saw 
quantities of artificial flowers made of shells, corals, conchs, 
and sea-ferns; Enoshima being famous for its marine curi- 
osities. 

Every other house was a hotel, and nearly all the buildings 
bore this sign — 

PLEASANT ACCOMMODATIONS FOR PILGRIMS. 

Mr. Nambo conducted them to a comfortable inn, and as 
soon as they had dined, the landlord took them into the rear 
yard of the establishment and showed them some gigantic 
crabs, with shells two feet across, and claws six feet in length 



278 YOUNG AMERICANS IN JAPAN. 

" I do not think you can beat those," styly observed Oto, as 
Fitz prodded the monsters with a bamboo. 

"Pooh! " returned the boy; " I have seen crabs among the 
Cromlech rocks that you could not get into a barrel." 

"Oh, Fitz Jewett! " exclaimed his sister; "what a dreadful 
story! You never saw one there that was too large to go into 
a barrel." 

"I did not say anything of the kind," he answered with a 
chuckle. " I said they wouldn't go into a barrel, — more they 
would. You couldn't get them to, anyhow." 

The young Americans thoroughly explored Enoshima,. 
viewed the temple of Benten, and the cave on the shore, where 
the white dragons were said to have once made their home, and 
where now, at high tide, enormous cuttle-fish sometimes lurk 
and prey upon the fishermen. The boys saw everything, and 
asked the guide so many questions that he was glad when night 
came, and they returned to their hotel. 

Enoshima, the island Benten is supposed to have raised 
fi'om the sea after she drove the dragons out of the marshes of 
Yedo Bay, is the favorite resort of pilgrims, who pray at her 
shrine, and enjoy the lovely scenery. 

The Jewett party spent the next morning at the inn, then 
started for Lake Hakone. On their way they crossed many 
streams, and passed through scenery that reminded them of the 
White Mountains. 

As they halted at Odawara to change from jin-riki-sha to 
hago (litters), Fitz, who was watching a man fastening a tablet 
to the door-post of a house, said to Oto, — 

"What is that notice about?" 

"Do you not know.^ " replied his friend. "The govern- 
ment requires every householder to place over his door a list 
of the names, ages, and occupations o^ all persons living under 
the roof, and severely punishes any one who, on the arrival or 



iiifl 



iiiiiiiiiiii^ 




28o YOUNG AMERICANS IN JAPAN. 

departure of a guest, fails to correct the record. We have such 
a tablet on the outside of our house, and you will find it on 
every building, except the residences of his Majesty the Mi- 
kado, and of high officials." 

" But what good is it? " demanded Fitz. 

*^ It is exceedingly useful," answered Oto. *^ It facilitates 
the taking of the census, and acts as a check upon criminals, 
who find it impossible to seclude themselves long from the 
officers of justice. It would be an excellent plan for you to 
adopt in the States." 

"We are a free people," laughingly answered the boy. 
*' Our citizens would not submit to such a thing." 

On the last day of September they arrived at their destina- 
tion, and were welcomed by Mr. Ito, who had a charming 
residence overlooking Lake Hakone, and who proved to be a 
most accomplished, genial gentleman. 

That evening they assembled on the veranda of the dwelling, 
where they sat and watched the white sails drifting to and fro 
on the bosom of the lake, and beheld, across the range, the 
purple cone of cloud-crested Fuji-yama. 

" How many feet is that above the level of the sea? " asked 
Johnnie of Oto, who was dreamily regarding the beautiful 
scenery. 

" About thirteen thousand," was the drowsy reply. " Is it 
not sufficient that the view is lovely, without troubling one's 
mind as to the height of the mountain ? " 

" Oh, you are a thorough Japanese," said Johnnie. 

" And you are a thorough American," answered his friend. 
" I think this place is as near to Paradise as we poor mortals 
shall ever get." 



JAPANESE NEW YEAR FESTIVITIES. 28 1 



CHAPTER XVI. 

JAPANESE NEW YEAR FESTIVITIES. 

As soon as it is daybreak 

The housemaid goes to the well, 

And, grasping the rope, cries, 

" Turn easily, gentle wheel. 

For I am now dipping 

The water of congratulation 

For the New Year ! " — Japanese Poem. 

ONE cold, snowy morning in December, Fitz was looking 
out of the bay-window of a foreign-built house in the 
official quarter of Tokio. Near him was Johnnie, seated at a 
table studying, and on the other side of the apartment Sallie 
was furiously driving a sewing-machine. 

A great change had taken place in their arrangements, as, 
since September, their father had temporarily accepted the 
chemical chair in the Imperial College, and they had hired 
a house and furnished some of the rooms in the American 
fashion. 

Fitz, who was in his ordinary garb, stood watching a jin^ 
riki-sha man who had taken up his position against the fence 
on the opposite side of the road, and, with his hands thrust into 
his sleeves, was hugging himself in a manner peculiar to the 
Japanese. 

" Samui, samui (cold, cold) ! " muttered the half-frozen 
coolie. 

The boy of course could not hear this, but interpreted the 
motion of the man's lips, and echoed, — 

" Samui I Yes, you are right. Say, Johnnie, Oto is here, 



>82 



YOUNG AMERICANS IN JAPAN. 



he has just entered 
the porch. His 
kuruma (another 
name for jin-riki- 
shd) man is stand- 
ing under the lee 
of the fence, and 
shivering Hke a 
sick cat." 

In a few mo- 
ments Oto, dressed 
in American cos- 
tume, entered the 
room, and, after 
saluting his friends, 
seated himself by 
the stove, aid ex- 
claimed, — 

" You are d e - 
lightfully warm in 
here. I'm chilled 
to the marrow." 

" How long will 
this cold spell 
last?" inquired 
Sallie, ceasing her 
occupation, and ad- 
vancing toward 
him. "It is a heavy 
fall of snow for 
Tokio, is it not.^* " 
"Ye — ye — yes," he answered, v^arming his blue-looking 
fingers. "We have not had such a blessing — ugh— ;- for twenty 




JIN-RIKI-SHA MAN. 



JAPANESE NEW YEAR FESTIVITIES. 283 

years. Thank goodness, the snow is melting fast, and will 
probably all be gone by New Year's day. By the way, Sallie, 
I have come to invite you and the boys to spend the holidays 
with us. My father and mother have sent you a written 
invitation," handing her a note. " O-Kiku is coming to our 
house, and we are going to keep the New Year in the old 
fashion." 

" I have no doubt mamma and papa will let us go," said the 
young lady. " I hope your honorable parents are enjoying 
good health." 

While they were chatting, the Professor passed the window. 
He was smiling, and as usual, muffled in his long cloak, and 
wore a broad-brimmed felt hat, by which he was becoming 
known all over Tokio. 

On noticing Oto, he nodded, and when he joined the group, 
said, — 

" Well, doctor, how do you do, and how are your honorable 
parents ? " 

"What is amusing you, sir?" asked Fitz, as he watched his 
father's face. 

"Oh, nothing," replied the Professor. "Just now, when 
I was leaving the college gate, I saw a bozu, waiting for me, 
and near him a bald-headed boy, watching the bozu. As I 
approached the man, he dropped on his knees, and, after bow- 
ing repeatedly, cried, — 

" ^ Great foreign lady, will you give me a plaster to cure my 
cough?' 

" The boy listened with a mocking expression, then raising 
his hands derisively, ran past me, crying, — 

" ^ Hai ! Hai ! here's a good joke ! The old bozu can't cure 
himself, and is obliged to ask the aid of that foreign lady.' " 

"They took you for Mrs. Dr. Crispman," laughingly ob- 
served Oto. 



284 YOUNG AMERICANS IN JAPAN. 

"Oh, papa, do have your hair cut," said Sallie. "The 
people will not believe you are a gentleman." 

" Well, papa is," said Fitz. " There is no mistake about 
that." 

" Well, well, I'll have my hair cut by machinery, the same 
as Oto does," merrily replied the Professor, alluding to the 
young doctor's closely cropped head. "Anything to please 
you, daughter." 

When he had read Mr. Nambo's letter, he said, — 

" I guess you young folks can go. There is to be a ball at 
the house of the Minister for Foreign Affairs, a review of the 
troops, and lots of gay doings, but you can attend them all. 
How many days will your holiday last, Oto ? " 

" From the first to the fifteenth," he replied. " I cannot 
remain at home over the third," — adding naively, "the patients 
require the same attendance during a matsuri as at any 
other time." 

It was finally agreed that the young people should visit Mr. 
and Mrs. Nambo from the last day of the old year to the third 
of the new, then return home and enjoy the modern features of 
the great holiday. 

Mrs. Jewett, who was of course consulted, thought this 
would be the wisest plan, so a letter of acceptance was written, 
and handed to Oto, who went off to the hospital, delighted with 
the idea of once more enjoying a good time with his old 
friends. 

The snow rapidly vanished, and on the last day of the year 
the air of Tokio was mild and balmy. 

" Come, Sallie," shouted Fitz, that afternoon, as they entered 
thQir Jin-riki-sha, "we are ready! Johnnie says we ought to 
take a ride about the city, and see the preparations for the 
holiday." ^ 

The young lady soon made her appearance, and they set out. 



JAPANESE NEW YEAR FESTIVITIES. 



^85 



Modern Tokio, the official portion of the city where the 
houses are built of brick and stone, was alive with soldiers, 
foreigners, and natives in American costume. Flags of all 
nations were fluttering in the breeze, and when the young 
people looked at the stores, gas lamps and telegraph wires, 
they could scarcely believe they were in the land of the Rising 
Sun; however, after they left that part of the city, and entered 




MOB BEFORE A SAKE SHOP. 



a district untouched by the hand of the reformer, everything 
was different. 

"What is that crowd shouting about?" asked Fitz, as their 
vehicles were stopped by a throng of yelling servants, most of 
whom carried tubs, bottles or buckets. " Is there a fire any 
where ? " 

"No," answered one of the jin-rihi-sha men; "this is the 
day the saU dealers tap the new liquor. Those people are 



286 



YOUNG AMERICANS IN JAPAN. 



after their supply for the holidays. That shop is behindhand 
in opening its doors, and the servants are indignant at the 
delay." 

The proprietor of the establishment and some of his assist- 
ants came out on the roof of the porch, and shouted to the 
people to be patient. 

"What does he 
say?" asked Sallie. 

" L i s t e n," said 
Fitz. 

The sake dealer 
leaned over the rail 
and said, in a loud 
voice, — 

"Good friends! 
good friends! Wait 
a few^ moments. The 
bozu says my sake, 
must not be tapped 
until the sun sets. 
Now, you surely do not w^ant to bring misfortune on your- 
selves by compelling me to serve it before the auspicious 
moment arrives." 

" Oh, go to! " shouted an unbeliever in the crowd. "Give 
the bozu a bottle, and send him back to the temple." 

"It's a fact!" yelled an employe, who stood behind the 
proprietor and endeavored to calm the crowd by waving a 
dipper. " Wait until the lucky moment arrives." 

Just then the jin-riki-sha men noticed an opening in the 
assembly, and, availing themselves of it, were soon clear of the 
noisy throng. v 

During their tour of inspection, the Jewetts passed many 
shops in which artists were preparing the ornamental visiting- 




EMBOSSING VISITING-CARDS. 



JAPANESE NEW YEAR FESTIVITIES. 



207 



cards used during the festivities. These were embossed with 
various patterns, by being passed through a wooden machine 
that somewhat resembled a clothes-wringer. Millions of such 
strips of paper are annually manufactured, and are as much 
sought after as our Christmas cards. 

It was quite late before the young Americans concluded 
their round, and the streets were begmning to be densely 




WELCOMING THE NEW RICE. 

crowded with people making holiday purchases. Most of them 
carried lanterns, and appeared in the best possible humor. 

" All Tokio is having a good time," said Johnnie, as they 
halted before a rice warehouse. " I wonder what those coolies 
with the long lanterns are yelling about? " 

"They are welcoming the new rice," said one of the run- 
ners. " Most of them are house-servants out for a frolic. They 



288 YOUNG AMERICANS IN JAPAN. 

assemble in front of the stores of merchants from whom their 
masters have, during the year, purchased rice. Then they 
shout, raise their lanterns, clap their hands, and repeat their 
cry, which attracts the proprietors, who invite the men in and 
treat them to sake^'' 

"What is that double straw cornucopia for? " asked Sallie. 

"It means that new rice is for sale within," replied the 
man. 

" I have seen enough of this," said Fitz. " Come, let us go 
on to Mr. Nambo's; he will think we are lost." 

On reaching the entrance to their friend's estate, they 
found a green bamboo planted on one side, and a young pine- 
tree on the other; the trees being connected by a rope of 
straw. 

"Now, we are going to see something of the olden cus- 
toms," said Johnnie, as they heard the shouts of the niochi- 
makers in the courtyard. " I tell you, this is like old times, 
when the Shogun was the master of Yedo." 

The guests were welcomed by their host, hostess, and 
O-Kiku, and when the ladies had retired the boys followed Mn 
Nambo into the courtyard to see the mochi-V!\2^t.xs>. 

Mochi is a sweet dough made in a peculiar manner by 
beating rice flour and sugar in an enormous wooden mortar. 
It is a luxury consumed in large quantities during the New 
Year festivities, and is eaten either uncooked, steamed, or fried. 
Years ago the ;//cc^ /-makers went from house to house, and 
were a source of great amusement to the children. Now the 
delicacy is manufactured at large establishments. 

Although there were only seven men in the party employed 
by Mr. Nambo, they made as much noise as seventy ordinary 
servants. All of them were stripped to the waist, had towels 
tied about their heads, and were yelling as though their lives 
depended upon their cries. 



JAPANESE NEW YEAR FESTIVITIES. 



289 



The rice-flour and sugar were slightly moistened, and 
pounded in a mortar formed of the section of a trunk of a tree; 
the stout pestle being provided with a short handle. The 
operators often removed the dough from the vessel and threw 
it back with a dull thud. 

In the centre of the courtyard was a portable furnace 




MOCHI-MAKERS. 



formed of fire-clay, surmounted by a copper boiler, and a 
steamer in which the prepared dough was being cooked. 

Mochi is to a Japanese what turkey and mince pies are to 
an American, and roast beef and plum pudding are to an 
Englishman — a sign of festivity. 

When the boys re-entered the house, they noticed a gentle- 
man seated in the corridor, writing by the light of a little lamp. 
On his right hand stood a vase filled with iris leaves, round the 



290 



YOUNG AMERICANS IN JAPAN. 



base of which were inserted the heads of some dried sardines 
stuck in cleft sticks. Upon a raised recess was a sambo 
filled with roasted chestnuts, gay a (peanuts), bunches of 
nosh'i (dried sea- weed), and a cup of raw rice; the 
whole being decorated with evergreens, ferns, and branches 
of pine. 

The stranger was well-dressed, and wore American eye- 
glasses, that gave his face a peculiar appearance. 




A POET AT WORK. 



" He is a professional poet whom I have engaged to write 
my New Year's cards," whispered the host. " Shohei is quite 
a celebrated man. Let me present him to you." 

The boys advanced, and were introduced; then the poet,, 
after much bowing and sucking in of his breath, took a sheet 
of paper and wrote, in large characters, down the centre, — 

'' Omei-eto " (congratulations), adding, on the left side, in a. 



JAPANESE NEW YEAR FESTIVITIES. 291 

beautiful, flowing hand, a poem, which may be thus trans- 
lated, — 

" During the past year 
I have received many kindnesses from you, 
And wish that the same may be repeated 
During the coming year. " 

He signed, stamped, and folded this, then handed it to Fitz. 

"Any charge?" whispered the boy, fumbling for his purse. 

"No, no," breathed Mr. Nambo. "I pay him for every- 
thing he does." 

They left the writer hard at work, and entered their host's 
private room, where they saw many new kakemono (hanging 
pictures), and Mr. Nambo said, — 

" I keep these in my kura''"' (fire-proof store-house), a struc- 
ture, built behind the houses of the wealthy, in which are 
deposited the treasures of the family — money, dresses, works 
of art, etc. 

" I see," said Johnnie. " You change your house decorations 
every now and then, and don't put all your pictures on your 
walls at once, as we do." 

The old gentleman bowed and replied, — 

" We like to display a few choice paintings at a time, we 
thus have an opportunity to fully examine them and appreciate 
their beauties. If we had them always before our eyes, they 
would soon cease to charm us." 

"That is sensible," murmured Fitz. "Too much famil- 
iarity begets contempt." 

"May we come in?" asked Mrs. Nambo. 

"Yes, honorable wife," replied her husband. "I was about 
to send for you and our honorable young lady guests." 

"What does that represent? " said Johnnie, as Mrs. Nambo, 
Sallie and O-Kiku joined them. " Is it not a picture of your- 
self and a friend? " 

"Ah!" sighed their host. "That depicts me in my old 



292 



YOUNG AMERICANS IN JAPAN. 



ceremonial dress, receiving a guest on New Year's day. The 
other gentleman is my cousin. You see he has just placed his 
present on the sambo, before me, and I am acknowledging his 
respectful congratulations." 

" I suppose you sucked in your breath considerably," said 
Fitz. " Why do you do that ? " 




NEW year's presents. 

"Why do you raise your hat to a lady?" demanded Mr. 
Nambo. 

" It is our custom," was the reply. 

" Audibly drawing in the breath is our way of expressing 
respect," quietl}^ returned their friend. 

" Is that a lobster perched upon a loaf, on the sambo behind 
your cousin?" said Sallie. 

" Yes," replied their host. " I shall have such a symbol, 

o-morrow, on the tokonoma of this room. That represents a 

sambo, on which are two cakes of fno chi, surmounted by a 



JAPANESE NEW YEAR FESTIVITIES. 

boiled lobster, -the red color of which signifies luck that 
lasts. It IS a token of continued happiness." 

« Why do you have a poet to write your cards.? " demanded 
Fitz. 

'^^ Why do you have your cards printed?" said O-Kiku. 
«To save us the trouble of writing them," said the boy. 
Mr. Nambo smiled and remarked, — 
" Now you know why I employ a poet." 
Fitz laughed, and going close to another kakemono, said — 
^^ What does that mean? Is it not a hare bowing and 
trembhng before a wild boar? " 




THE DAIMIO AND HATAMOTO. 



" Yes," nodded Mr. Nambo. « That is a caricature directed 
against the old order of things. It represents a kafamofo 
(yeoman farmer) asking for justice at the hands of a daimzo. 
I keep it on account of the excellence of the drawing." 

"I suppose the great lords used to bully the yeoman 
farmers," bluntly observed Fitz. "I see, it is something like 
a poor Irish peasant imploring his haughty landlord to reduce 
his rent." 

" I do not understand your meaning," said Mr. Nambo. 
Sallie explained, and when their host had mastered the 
facts of the case, he said, — 



294 



YOUNG AMERICANS IN JAPAN. 



" All that sort of thing is abolished now." 

" Not in Ireland," said Fitz. 

" My gracious! What is this about?" cried Sallie, pointing 
to a kakemono representing a man throwing something at two 
hideous demons, while in the background Dai-koku and Yeb- 
isu were enjoying a bowl of hot sake 




THE CEREMONY OF ONIWA SOTO. 



"Ah!" exclaimed the old gentleman. "That is a picture 
of a ceremony we call Onitoa soto (expelling the demons). 
You must know that to-day is termed Toshi koshi (passing 
away of the year). I performed a similar ceremony this even- 
ing, just before you arrived." 

" Please, tell us all about it," said Sallie. 

Mr. Nambo smiled and continued, — 

" I roasted some beans, mixed them with some broken char- 



JAPANESE NEW YEAR FESTI 

coal, brick and potsherd, and put the mixLUit m a x^^x. muo^. 
(two-quart measure), then I dressed myself in my old ceremo- 
nial robes, took a sambo in my left hand, placed the masu on 
it and bade my youngest male servant follow me with a broom. 
We first entered my sleeping-room and closed the door to within 
an inch or so, then I threw a handful of the broken stuff to the 
ceiling and cried, ^Ftikuiva uchi oniwa soto^ (Good fortune 
come in, bad go out)." 

" What jolly fun ! " exclaimed Fitz. " Well ? " 

" The ceremony is not a joke," gently observed Mrs. 
Nambo. 

"^ Honorable wife," said her husband, " it no doubt appears 
amusing to our honorable guests. You forget they do not 
observe the ceremony of Oniwa sotoP 

"Please, go on," urged Sallie. "Do not mind what my 
brother says. He sees fun in everything. I think your cer- 
emonies are perfectly charming." 

Mr. Nambo bowed, sucked in his breath, and continued, — 

"After I had made the adjuration, my servant shouted: 
^Gomotomu osaye mashu.^ (You are quite right). Saying 
which, he slapped his broom on the floor as though driving out 
the demons. When I had cried and he answ^ered me 
thrice, we retired to the next room, carefully closing the 
door of my chamber behind us. We visited each apartment 
and repeated the ceremony, then I threw what remained 
in the ^nasu at the demons who were skulking about the 
veranda." 

"Was old Mitsu-ro one of them?" inquired Fitz. 

" My honorable husband threw the missives at the oni 
(imps) that always gather about a house during times of fes- 
tivities," quietly observed Mrs. Nambo. "We put a fringe of 
pine branches and straw all round the eaves of the veranda to 
keep away those dreadful things. They are invisible." 



296 ' YOUNG AMERICANS IN JAPAN. 

*^ I want to know! " murmured the boy. 

"Yes, and we place dried sardines' heads in cleft sticks in 
each entry," continued the lady. 

" You saw those shaga (iris) leaves and other symbols in 
the vase near the poet? Well, they both mean the same 
thing." 

"How comical!" muttered Fitz. "I don't think the fish- 
heads smell nice." 

"Hush!" whispered Sallie. "I consider all these customs 
just splendid." 

"But what do they signify?" demanded the unabashed 
boy. 

"That spring is near," answered their hostess. "These 
symbols were formerly used some months later, when the 
almanac denoted that spring had begun, which was also 
about the time of our New Year's day. Now the govern- 
ment has abolished the old way of reckoning time, and our 
ancient customs and modern dates are all mixed up. Properly 
speaking, we should not decorate our houses with the iris and 
sardine-heads until winter has departed. Ah! " sighing, " every- 
thing is in a terrible muddle." 

" Is this anything to do with the New Year? " inquired 
Sallie, indicating a picture which represented a lady and her 
daughter at a toko7ioma, filled with dolls and vases containing 
dwarf and grotesque trees. 

" That is a painting of our Little Girls' Day," answered Mrs. 
Nambo. " It occurs on the third of March." 

" It is very much like your Santa Claus festival," said 
O-Kiku. " It depicts a mother and her eldest daughter arranging 
the family dolls and the gifts for the little ones, on the tokonomay 
the back of which is decorated with the red sun of Japan. 
This is done after the young children are in bed. The dolls, 
which represent great personages, are only brought out once a 



JAPANESE NEW YEAR FESTIVITIES. 



297 



year and are highly prized by us. I like to dress the tokonoma 
for my little sisters." 

" I did not know you had any sisters," said Fitz. 

"Oh, yes!" was the smiling reply. "I have three. You 
will see them when you honor us with a visit. We live 
at Nikko, up in the mountains, where the Shoguns are 
buried." 




THE LITTLE GIRLS' FESTIVAL. 

"In a cemetery?" he asked. "Is it not awfully gloomy 
there?" 

O-Kiku laughed merrily, and replied, — 

"No, it is a lovely spot. We have a very old saying: ^ No 
one who has not seen Nikko (sunny splendor) should use the 
word Kekko (beautiful, grand, delightful). It is a charming 
place. You should visit it and see the falls of Kiri-furi (falling 
mist) and Kegon (the morning's mirror) on Lake Chiuzenjii, and 



298 YOUNG AMERICANS IN JAPAN. 

the golden light illuminating Nantaizan. At Nikko we have 
the most glorious scenery and the grandest trees in Japan. 
Sallie has promised to spend next summer with me." 

They laughed and chatted until Oto arrived, when he pro- 
posed they should go to his room and play Mon (crests). 

" I know that game," said Fitz. " It is just first-class. We 
have it in the States, and Sallie and I have played it many a 
time." 

"Yes, and Cash (cho-mohu) too," said the young lady. 
"We are indebted to Japan for some of our best games." 

" Do you know one we pall Akambo (red baby) ? " inquired 
O-Kiku. " It is a favorite with our young folks." 

" You mean the one played with five counters on a big, red 
face," said Johnnie. " Oh ! we know that. All those games 
are published in America." 

" Then you owe us something," laughingly answered 
O-Kiku. 

" Yes," nodded the boy, " but we taught your students how 
to play base-ball, and eat ice-cream." 

"Oto," said his cousin," you never ate it, did you?" 

The young doctor laughed. 

"My son never drank milk or ate cream, I am certain," 
said Mrs. Nambo. 

Again Oto indulged in a chuckle. 

" Of course he did," said Fitz. " Everybody in the States 
does." 

" I suppose I may as well own up," merrily observed the 
culprit. " I am afraid it will shock my honorable mother, but 
the truth is, I not only drank milk, and ate ice-cream, but, 
saddest of all, partook of butter three times a day, and — am 
really fond of cheese." 

Mrs. Nambo sighed, and regarding him sorrowfully, said, — 

" Then no wonder you changed your religion. Doctor 



JAPANESE NEW YEAR FESTIVITIES. 299 

Choan assures me all the articles you have named affect the 
brain. They are slow poisons." 

"Very slow," murmured the amused Fitz. "They haven't 
killed him yet." 

" Can you play Go (five) ? " asked O-Kiku, after they had 
enjoyed several of the games before described. 

" Do you mean Go-bang? " inquired Johnnie. 

"No, 6^(7," she said. " Ban is the board on which we play. 
We have no such game as Go-bang." 

" That is what we call it," said Fitz. 

" Yes, and vulgarize the proper name," returned Sallie. " I 
never called it so." 

" Go is the oldest game we have," observed O-Kiku. " It 
is very difficult to master the correct rules." 

"I learnt it in five minutes," said Fitz. "We do not bother 
ourselves about rules j we try to get five men of a color in a 
line, then shout Go-bang, and our opponent is banged." 

" That is not (?(?," proudly answered the young lady. "Ours 
is a very intricate affair, and is played with the greatest care." 

"Yes," said Oto, "in the old time, if an outsider interfered 
in a game of Go^ the players cut off his head and placed it in 
a receptacle, provided for that purpose, under the ban "" 

"You don't say!" cried Fitz. "Johnnie would soon have 
lost his head. He always interfered when Sallie and I played 
Go-bang." 

They laughed, joked, and amused themselves until midnight, 
when they retired to their rooms. 

At daybreak the young Americans were awakened by the 
news-venders on the avenue, who were chanting a novel kind 
of poem, sold only during the holidays. 

These men supply their customers with anything from a 
New- Year's card to a comic song, and when they do not have 
the poem required, will pass some other off on their patrons, 



300 



YOUNG AMERICANS IN JAPAN. 



just as our newsboys will sell a chance customer an old num- 
ber of a paper. 

As the boys were listening to the noises, Oto shouted from 
the next room, — 

^^Omereto (congratulations)! Shin-nen kei ga (^qwYq^x's 
joyous welcome) ! " 

In another moment he was in their apartment, and down on 
his hands and knees, bowing in the old Japanese fashion. 




SONG-SELLERS ON THE STREET. 



Johnnie and Fitz replied in the same way, and sucked in 
their breath, laughing as they did so, and knocking their fore- 
heads on the floor. 

The lads then proceeded to the entrance of Mr. Nambo's 
room, repeated the ceremony, and presented him with cards 
of congratulation, and the gifts they had brought for the 
occasion. 

"Ah I this reminds me of my young days," sighed the old 
gentleman. "Do you not like our way of saluting?" 

" Well, I can't say I do," replied Fitz> " I dislike to drive 
tacks with my forehead." 



JAPANESE NEW YEAR FESTIVITIES. 301 

"Do what?" inquired their host. 

"He means the act is Hke driving nails into a carpet," 
answered Oto. "In America the floors are covered with 
woollen cloths kept in place by small nails driven along the 
edges. Hence Fitz's reference to driving tacks." 

Mr. Nambo smiled, though he evidently did not appreciate 
the joke. 

" I like to shake hands," said Johnnie, " to giv2 a friend a 
good grip — it means something." 

"And you, Oto?" asked Mr. Nambo. 

"I own I prefer the American fashion," answered his son» 
"The fact is, honorable father, when dressed in foreign garb, 
one cannot very well perform the respectful salutation. 

"Ah ! " exclaimed his parent. " You will never forget what 
you learned in the United States." 

"We hope not," thought the young Americans. 

After they had conversed awhile, they went to Mrs. Nambo's 
room, and paid their respects to her and the young ladies. 

Sallie was dressed in Japanese costume, and Kiku in Ameri- 
can, both looking quite charming. 

While they were complimenting each other, old Mitsu-ro 
entered, and falling upon her hands and knees, bowed her 
head, and presented Oto with a package, after which she 
saluted the boys, her mistress, and the young ladies. 

As she rose, the}' heard a shout from the kitchen, and a 
child's voice, crying, — 

"Hai! hai! hai!" 

" It is that young imp, Taro, Izakura's son," angrily remarked 
Mitsu-ro. " He is always making a noise about something." 

" Suppose we go and ascertain the cause of his excitement? "■ 
said Oto. 

Away went the boys, who, on arriving in the kitchen^ 
beheld a most amusing sight. 



302 YOUNG AMERICANS IN JAPAN. 

Izakura, the cook, had purchased a mask, representing the 
face of a tengu (long-nosed demon), and had donned it in 
order to surprise his boy, instead of doing which he had scared 
his wife, who was squatting on the floor with outstretched 
hands, yelling, — 

" Sari^ sari, (go away ■ — go away) ." * 

Izakura extended his arms and danced in a grotesque 
fashion, while his son, who was lying on the floor, kicked his 
feet in the air, pointed at him gleefully, and shouted, — 

" Toki-no-hoyeV (equivalent to hurrah). 

^^ Ugh ! " shrieked the woman, whose hair fairly bristled. 

" Hello ! " cried Fitz. " What is this ? " 

Izakura removed the mask and handed it to his delighted 
son, then fell upon his hands and knees, and bowing his face to 
the floor, said, — 

" Honorable master and guests, I humbly wish 3^ou the con- 
gratulations of the New Year." 

The boy laid aside his present and followed his father's 
example, and the woman did the same. 

"What were you doing? " demanded Oto. 

" Honorable master," said Izakura, rising and standing 
with his head inclined respectfully, " I bought that mask for 
my son, and, thinking to astonish him, put it on, when my silly 
wife pretended to be alarmed." 

"Pretended!" snapped the woman. "I thought you had 
fallen and hurt your beautiful nose. I'm not frightened by a 
tengu mask, — the likeness was what alarmed me." 

Fitz roared, and Izakura darted a reproachful glance at 
his better half, then, after listening a moment to a noise outside, 
said, — 

" Honorable master, there are the Etas (beggars) ; would 
you like to witness their capers? " ^ 

* Vide illustration on paper cover 



JAPANESE NEW YEAR FESTIVITIES. 



303 



The lads went into the veranda, and, standing behind the 
bamboo shade that screened the entrance to the kitchen, saw 
two men, wearing tall, conical hats of rushes, decorated with 
streamers of paper, who were dancing to the sound of sticks, 
which they struck together. 

They performed some clumsy antics, and shouted vigor- 
ously, stopping every now and then to utter calf-like bleats. 

"Why do they wear aprons? " asked Johnnie. 




ETA DANCERS. 



"I do not know," answered Oto. "Formerly those creatures 
were considered lower than the animals, and when they in- 
truded on private premises, the servants used to kill them as 
they would wild beasts. Now they are, in the eyes of the law, 
regarded as good as any one." 

After the Etas had given an exhibition of their agility, and 
nonstrated the power of their lungs, Izakura threw them a 
T sen, and they went off laughing, and making saucy re- 
<!.- rks about the appearance of the young Americans. 

" Ah ! " said Oto. " That comes of placing beggars upon an 



304 YOUNG AMERICANS IN JAPAN. 

equality with decent people. I would have kept them in their 
proper place, and only emancipated those who deserved it* 
They are impertinent because they are ignorant." 

"Just like our vagabond negroes," said Fitz. " I'm glad 
they are free. It does not do to oppress any body of men 
because some of their number are too talkative." 

"Just so," slyly answered Johnnie. "If that were so we 
should be punished for your chatter." 

His brother made a grimace, and laughingly retorted, — 

"You mean my eloquence." 

They returned to Oto's room, and about eight o'clock were 
summoned to a breakfast served in the old style, at the con- 
clusion of which visitors began to arrive. 

Some of the callers were dressed in the national garb, but 
the majority of the gentlemen wore black dress-suits, and shirts 
with frilled bosoms, carried tall, black hats, and were accom- 
panied by their wives, costumed in the latest Parisian fashion. 

In the middle of the day the boys slipped off, and took a 
stroll about the city. 

" The Tokians have gone mad," said Fitz, as they paused ta 
watch the crowd on Little Monkey Street. 

Children were everywhere, — on the pavement, in their 
nurse's arms and on their backs, flying kites, playing horse, and, 
what Fitz termed, " playing Cain," in which amusement they 
were joined by their elders. 

A man, wearing a bearded mask and a conical hat, and who 
blew a brass instrument resembling a speaking-trumpet, and 
sounding like a bagpipe, was encased in a frame- work, made 
to represent a pony, the legs of which dangled in a very amus- 
ing manner. He gambolled among the crowd, and knocked 
over the youngsters right and left, notwithstanding which 
nobody interfered with him, and he continued his mad career,, 
followed by an admiring party. In his evolutions he floored a 



306 YOUNG AMERICANS IN JAPAN. 

lad, who was carrying a toy representing a fox, dressed in 
man's clothes, and a fat bozu^ attached to the stick of a tiny 
umbrella. As this flew out of his hand he began to howl, — 

" Oh, my god-fox! — Oh, my god-fox! " 

" Hi ! " cried his brother, rushing in front of the man and 
extending his hands. "Don't you damage Sabro's god-fox." 

In another^ instant the speaker was on top of -his brother. 
Seeing this, a boy, who was assisting a comrade to rig a square 
kite, decorated with a painting of a flying stork, cried, — 

" Yeh! Why didn't you fellows keep out of the way? Take 
your god-fox indoors if you don't want it broken." 

Some of the females wore blue cotton hoods, thickly wad- 
ded to keep their ears warm, while others went bare-headed, 
as though indifferent to the keenness of the frosty air. 

Women and men were shouting and dancing, and the store- 
keepers were doing a rousing trade in sake and sweetmeats. 

Almost every house was dressed with green bamboos or 
branches of pine, and had strings of straw and sprigs of pine 
stretched along the eaves. 

Johnnie complained that the noise gave him a headache, so 
Oto proposed they should return home. 

Just outside the house they met Oto's old schoolmaster and 
his wife, who were dressed in American costume. 

The gentleman bowed and said ^' Omereto^^ and the lady, 
after shaking hands with them, remarked in English, — 

" I Wash you a hop-eye nose-ears." 

Fitz would have commented on this had not Johnnie 
checked him and complimented the lady upon her knowledge 
of English. As he spoke, a yellow dog that had been warily 
regarding the group and snuffing the air suspiciously, uttered 
a frightened ki-yi, and tucking in its tail, started oflf as though 
it had been kicked. \ 

"Your honorable parents are at Mr. Nambo's," observed 



the gentk...c..., „..^ ..^. ^ , ...... ..:._ _.-.... ... 

a bent position, holding his tall hat with both his hands. " I 
hope you will live a thousand years and will always enjoy good 
health." 

Then he marched ofF, IHHf^^ 
followed by his wife, who, 
as she walked, swung her 
costume in a very Western 
fashion. 

Fitz smothered his mer- 
riment until they were out 
of sight, after which he 
laughed heartily, and ex- J j ' 
claimed, — 

" I thought I should 
have died when she wished 
us a Miop-eye nose-ears.' " 

" She does not slaugh- 
ter English worse than 
we used to Japanese," said Johnnie. "Isn't that so, Oto.^" 

The young doctor smiled and replied, — 

"Yes, you used to mangle Hhe language of the gods' pretty 
badly." 

The boys found the house filled with visitors, among whom 
w^ere the Professor and Mrs. Jewett, many of Oto's college 
chums, and a number of medical students and government offi- 
cials; nearly all of whom had been educated in America. 

"Good news!" said O-Kiku, as the boys joined her and 
Sallie. " Professor Jewect has accepted the Chemical Chair in 
the Imperial College tor three years, and after the holidays 
Sallie is going home with me." 

" Rah ! " exclaimed Fitz. " Won't we have some jolly 
times?" 




MODERN JAPANESE. 



\o8 



YOUNG AMERI 



'^ Yes," answered Johnnie. — /isit all tne places 

of interest in the city, and learn how porcelain is manufactured, ^ 
and how they make Indian-ink, silk goods, fans, and lacquer- ^^^ 
ware. We have not half seen the wonders of this great city." 

"You must come to Nikko and stay with us," said Sallie. 
" O-Kiku says Nikko is next to Paradise." 

"What mischief are you plotting now?" merrily inquired 
the Professor, advancing with his wife. " Are you aware, my 
sons, that you will not see home for three years?" 

" We know all about it, sir," replied Johnnie. " Fitz and I 
are delighted with the prospect. We mean to pass the time in 
exploring the wonderful city of Tokio." 




OWARI (the end). 



